AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
What kind of running issues are you having?
WMO processing set-up
- Thread starter Smoky12v
- Start date
Smoky12v
Registered User
My truck stumble and/or stall when fuel demand's high like when I'm accelerating. I don't have problem at idle or driving at constant speed which is low fuel demand.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Hmm... where are you getting pressure readings from? Pre or post filter? What mix are you currently running?
Filter is easy/cheap enough to change out so thats where I'd start for sure.. common issue when first starting to run wmo... I'd say if that fixes your issue... pick up a couple of filters to keep with you so it doesnt leave you stranded.
-Chris
Filter is easy/cheap enough to change out so thats where I'd start for sure.. common issue when first starting to run wmo... I'd say if that fixes your issue... pick up a couple of filters to keep with you so it doesnt leave you stranded.
-Chris
Smoky12v
Registered User
I replaced the fuel filter this morning.
at first the sypmtoms went away right away but it returned after high idled for 5 minutes.
fuel pressure gauge is reading the pressure between the fuel filter and the IP (tank>liftpump>fuelfilter>IP>tank)
pressure reading are excellent. over 30 psi at high idle but why the damn thing do not stay running??????
It's only 15*F this morning so I am sure that don't help but it still don't make sense as I was ******* with my truck so much trying to make it to run, the engine coolant got over 140*F but it still doesn't run for ****. My best decision is to get around 10 gallons of diesel in the tank and hopefully it'll be drive able.
at first the sypmtoms went away right away but it returned after high idled for 5 minutes.
fuel pressure gauge is reading the pressure between the fuel filter and the IP (tank>liftpump>fuelfilter>IP>tank)
pressure reading are excellent. over 30 psi at high idle but why the damn thing do not stay running??????
It's only 15*F this morning so I am sure that don't help but it still don't make sense as I was ******* with my truck so much trying to make it to run, the engine coolant got over 140*F but it still doesn't run for ****. My best decision is to get around 10 gallons of diesel in the tank and hopefully it'll be drive able.
idiabuse
Full Access Member
How is the rest of the fuel system? all stock? WMO usually is thicker so the small dia lines dont help moving the WMO.
I Had to replumb my whole truck when I was still using USDSL cause was tired of all the air leaks and Shower heads breaking off.
So now I have a #10 feed to my fuel pump, gravity fed and #8 lines to my engine and the same size line for a return.
The bypass style regulator has a boost compensation port that gives me a pound of fuel pressure for every pound of boost the engine makes. So fuel delivery is never an issue for me anymore.
This may be the way to solve alot of demand issues you have
Javier
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
I'd say its a volume issue.... try thinning the mix in the tank with kero or diesel for the time being to get it going.... cold and wmo don't seem to mix
idiabuse
Full Access Member
Keep adding gas to the mix, stale boat gas works the best since the octane is low. thinning it out is the goal.
Javier
Javier
Smoky12v
Registered User
My truck currently have around 1/2 tank of W83 WMO (83% used oil to 17% RUG)
Should I add 2 gallons of rug? I'm open to suggestion to try this evening.
Should I add 2 gallons of rug? I'm open to suggestion to try this evening.
Smoky12v
Registered User
I don't have any stale gas to use by the way.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
I'd try to bring the mix down to w80 at least... add a few gallons of rug first and see what happens. If all else fails.... you can dilute it further with diesel or kero.
-Chris
-Chris
Smoky12v
Registered User
my truck's fuel system is all stock except the turned up IP. As far as I've read when I researched, there weren't any thing noted about any modifications needed to the fuel system to run on WMO on mostly stock 94-98 12v ctd dodges. I'm sure there's rooms to improve but I don't want to if I don't have to though.
I'm going to put 2 to 3 gallons of RUG and hopefully that'll make it drive able then I'll be able to at least drive out the driveway (I have no idea how I was able to get home
) to the gas station to top it off with D2. I'll post the result
I'm going to put 2 to 3 gallons of RUG and hopefully that'll make it drive able then I'll be able to at least drive out the driveway (I have no idea how I was able to get home
) to the gas station to top it off with D2. I'll post the resultSmoky12v
Registered User
great news.
i took my lawn mower/snowthrower gas tank and put ~1.5 gal in then after a long cranking, the ******* finally started then i had to play with the pedal to keep it running until its moderately warmed up then i carefully drove to the gas station to put in 8ish gallons of diesel. at the station the truck still running like **** and wont idle but a little better. i went on a long straight road and floored it and got her up to over 1600*F egt for a few seconds. it ran perfect right after that wot run!!!!!!!!!!!
i think my fuel filter that i took out wasnt clogged after all.......... as the symptoms was same with old & new filter.
what ive learned tonight that anything below 30* ill have to dilute the wmo with diesel
EDIT: my truck still have long cranking before it'll starts even it was drove less than an hour ago. But it runs perfect fine once it started though. Weird.
i took my lawn mower/snowthrower gas tank and put ~1.5 gal in then after a long cranking, the ******* finally started then i had to play with the pedal to keep it running until its moderately warmed up then i carefully drove to the gas station to put in 8ish gallons of diesel. at the station the truck still running like **** and wont idle but a little better. i went on a long straight road and floored it and got her up to over 1600*F egt for a few seconds. it ran perfect right after that wot run!!!!!!!!!!!
i think my fuel filter that i took out wasnt clogged after all.......... as the symptoms was same with old & new filter.
what ive learned tonight that anything below 30* ill have to dilute the wmo with diesel
EDIT: my truck still have long cranking before it'll starts even it was drove less than an hour ago. But it runs perfect fine once it started though. Weird.
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AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
I had some coking issues when running 50/50 diesel and ~w93 when it got cold... it would start hard even when plugged in and would haze all the time... I then went back to straight diesel and still had hazing all the time...
I ended up unhookeing my fuel lines... I made up some extension lines that tied into the lift pump and put them in a 2 gallon fuel can with a 1/2 gallon of diesel... a can of seafoam... and 5-6 ounces of power service clean diesel... cleared my issue up... I just let it idle through the mix... reved it hard a few times while doing this... took about an hour to idle through it but its been good ever since.
Glad you got yours going again... being cold out, I'd stay 50/50 or close to it with diesel or kerosene and your wmo blend.... from what Ive been reading, thats a pretty safe mix for the winter months.
Some people get away with running w80 or so year round but i'm not sure how.
Once I get my trans issues taken care of, Ive planned out a dual tank system so I can start and shutdown on diesel but run my blend straight once the engine is at opperating temp... I also picked up a 20 plate heat exchanger to preheat the wmo mix that I'll install when I get around to getting my tank setup in..
I wish I had more fundage and time! Lol
-Chris
I ended up unhookeing my fuel lines... I made up some extension lines that tied into the lift pump and put them in a 2 gallon fuel can with a 1/2 gallon of diesel... a can of seafoam... and 5-6 ounces of power service clean diesel... cleared my issue up... I just let it idle through the mix... reved it hard a few times while doing this... took about an hour to idle through it but its been good ever since.
Glad you got yours going again... being cold out, I'd stay 50/50 or close to it with diesel or kerosene and your wmo blend.... from what Ive been reading, thats a pretty safe mix for the winter months.
Some people get away with running w80 or so year round but i'm not sure how.
Once I get my trans issues taken care of, Ive planned out a dual tank system so I can start and shutdown on diesel but run my blend straight once the engine is at opperating temp... I also picked up a 20 plate heat exchanger to preheat the wmo mix that I'll install when I get around to getting my tank setup in..
I wish I had more fundage and time! Lol
-Chris
Smoky12v
Registered User
I has not made any posts lately because my truck ran significantly better after I finally made the 50:50 ratio of W83 to D2 and added a bottle of treatment "kleen" in the tank
Anyhow, I am almost finished building my centrifuge cart. Right now it's in the service. I'm filtering the next batch right now.
I want to make my set-up more nicer and have fail-safe feature in case it develops a leak then it'll turn off the pump automatically to reduce any kind of damage and spillage.
I found 12 hour timer from home depot for $14 http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...Id=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.URB5k7_C2Sp
I am trying to find a pressure switch that will open the circuit when the pressure reading falls under 80 psi but I can't really find any.
I think it's something like this but I still can't find right pressure shut off rating. http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/hvac/controls/pressure-switches/supco-pressure-switches
Anyhow, I am almost finished building my centrifuge cart. Right now it's in the service. I'm filtering the next batch right now.
I want to make my set-up more nicer and have fail-safe feature in case it develops a leak then it'll turn off the pump automatically to reduce any kind of damage and spillage.
I found 12 hour timer from home depot for $14 http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...Id=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051#.URB5k7_C2Sp
I am trying to find a pressure switch that will open the circuit when the pressure reading falls under 80 psi but I can't really find any.
I think it's something like this but I still can't find right pressure shut off rating. http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/hvac/controls/pressure-switches/supco-pressure-switches
Last edited:
Smoky12v
Registered User
I went through oil filters too quick when I pump from the settle barrel to the centrifuge barrel. I just plugged another set of PH2825 filters at a new record of only 50 gallon of waste oil through it (or 25 gallons each filter). 
I'm looking for different and better oil filters to replace the PH2825 and I found it quite difficult to find bigger ones with 3/4"-16 thread with NO BYPASS VALVE so I started to look for alternative thread size to get more oil filter options. I went to TSC today to look at what they have and I found that P1654A with 1"-12 thread is pretty much double in size physically of PH2825 and no bypass valve and it's a "hydraulic filter" so it do not have the anti-drain valve, which we don't need in this application anyway. It's rated to 25 micron which is well within my need.
While I am in the store, there's a filter right beside P1654A which is the P1653A which is nearly the same as the P1654A but rated to 10 micron. I think I'll like to replace the PH2825 filters on my centrifuge cart as they're 20 micron to run the P1653A for two reasons, they're bigger and filter more tightly at 10 micron before the oil will go into the 5 micron filter I have after the dual head filters.
Fram P1654A
Fram P1653A
Fram PH2825
The best part about running the P1654A filters is that I can get a pack of 6 shipped for only whoppin $17.xx which means $2.80-ish each, can't really get any cheaper than that
Cheap source for the P1654A
The obvious problem is how I'm going to attach the bigger filter on the filter head, which I found this converter on ebay to take care of this problem.
3/4"-16 Thread to 1"-12 Thread Converter
I bought ONE P1654A today at TSC (they only have one anyway) to cut open, and I have one extra PH2825 to cut open too, so I'll have something to compare before I make some purchases as I want to make sure it'll worth my money to make the change. I'll post some pic when I get them.
I'm looking for different and better oil filters to replace the PH2825 and I found it quite difficult to find bigger ones with 3/4"-16 thread with NO BYPASS VALVE so I started to look for alternative thread size to get more oil filter options. I went to TSC today to look at what they have and I found that P1654A with 1"-12 thread is pretty much double in size physically of PH2825 and no bypass valve and it's a "hydraulic filter" so it do not have the anti-drain valve, which we don't need in this application anyway. It's rated to 25 micron which is well within my need.
While I am in the store, there's a filter right beside P1654A which is the P1653A which is nearly the same as the P1654A but rated to 10 micron. I think I'll like to replace the PH2825 filters on my centrifuge cart as they're 20 micron to run the P1653A for two reasons, they're bigger and filter more tightly at 10 micron before the oil will go into the 5 micron filter I have after the dual head filters.
Fram P1654A
Fram P1653A
Fram PH2825
The best part about running the P1654A filters is that I can get a pack of 6 shipped for only whoppin $17.xx which means $2.80-ish each, can't really get any cheaper than that
Cheap source for the P1654A
The obvious problem is how I'm going to attach the bigger filter on the filter head, which I found this converter on ebay to take care of this problem.
3/4"-16 Thread to 1"-12 Thread Converter
I bought ONE P1654A today at TSC (they only have one anyway) to cut open, and I have one extra PH2825 to cut open too, so I'll have something to compare before I make some purchases as I want to make sure it'll worth my money to make the change. I'll post some pic when I get them.
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