WMO first time advice.

channel497

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i see that people are running on WMO and i want to know what setup you are running. i lnow of the different: filter, centrifuge, heater system but is there and system where i can just dump straight WMO into my car and drive away. it seems like WMO is more about building a seperate filter tank system in your garage and then filling up from that. i want to go for a dirt cheap build of a 300d
 

The FNG

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It can be done but I wouldn't plan on going very far. Look into sock filters. Just for the record, I'm not endorsing this. There is a reason most of us have spent a lot of time and money on building our systems.
 

FarmerFrank

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We have all tried dumping it in and going. Had troubles. Lots of fuel filters. Then we found out other people tried and we all learn for each others mistakes. We all agree in tank mixing is not good if you trying for more than 50%. If you want to filter with a old pair of jeans and put a gallon or two to a tank you should be ok. Just carry a spare fuel filter.
 

Josh Carmack

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I'm the Mercedes guy on here as well as an International IDI lover. What sub model 300D, there are three or four types and each has a different engine. I run two 87 300D Turbo type 124 with 603's in them. I just started dumping my fuel in them regularly a couple months ago maybe three months ago.

The Aluminum heads make the OM603's and 606's not so great candidates. Injectors and pumps are pretty robust, but as another user reminded me on here the aluminum heads transfer heat out of the combustion chamber faster and therefore top of the chamber temps are a little lower. They do ok, keep the RPMS up and they do fine. My mail car sees lots of idling, and starts to run like crap very quickly when a wet batch or a dirty batch goes in the tank. I have never blinded out a fuel filter on my Old ford, probably due to the fact that my pickups are broken off inside the tanks and I cannot draw the last 4 or 5 gallons. but have changed three filters in the last few weeks on the 300's because I let a wet/bad batch get into the tank. I just changed my wife's fuel filter for her this morning because it was showing signs of being water blinded. Car wouldn't accelerate and ran like SH%$. New filter fixed it.

Please, I know a lot of people come to this board to save quick money, and it WILL NOT WORK in the long run. I got into burning WMO because I couldn't afford 140 to 160 dollar fill ups. I wanted to try the dump it in and run method but was talked out of it, and glad I was. Best case scenario is if you filter and dump is water blinded filters. Worse case scenario is cavitation pitting in the pump and injectors from water or other contaminate intrusion. The latter means new fuel system. I have heard of water ruining injector pumps almost immediately. $$$$$$$$$$

I saved a little money and started out like this.

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After I made a few tankfuls I spent a little more money and added a second centrifuge, installed everything on a stand and upgraded to a 55 gal drum. In ver. one I had less than 150.00 invested. Thats what it cost me to fill up both tanks on the truck. The way I increased was every time I filled a tank up I would spend a little money on something else I wanted to make my system more efficient or automated.

I just spent what it cost to fill another tank up this morning on a goldenrod water block filter and the needed plumbing to also make a water catch basin before I go into my mixing tank. Ive been doing this for almost two years and have learned a whole lot of what not to do. You can filter out dirt, and you can settle out water, but you can do nothing but heat or use water block filters to get rid of emulsified or dissolved water. Every batch I dump in the mixing tank has some form of water in it. I now heat way beyond boiling temperatures to ensure water removal. Even batches that I would swear are dry will crackle and pop upon adding the heater element. I heat til the oil is around 300 350 range and no more crackle snap popping is going on then start processing. I usually have to add 5500W for about 4-5 hours on a 45 to 50 gal batch. I used to only heat to 150 to 180 only to lower viscosity. I started really heating after I saw condensation in my filler neck and had to make roadside filter changes. All of my fuel goes through a filter finer than my under hood filters so I can rest easy knowing soot and trash won't block my filters.

Before I added a second fuge and increased my run times I was blinding my finishing filters so fast that they weren't saving me a whole lot of money. I rarely change them now because my fuges do all the dirty work. The batch I am working on now has some fine metal shavings in it that can be seen trapped inside the fuges when I clean them. There is no evidence of the filings in the finished batch before or after my finishing filters.

This is my current setup.
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All in all I have maybe 1500 in it and it has paid me a LOT more than that.
 

Brad S.

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Did that too, dumping wmo into the tank before filtering.(cost a couple fuel filters)
The trade offs with using wmo is this, wmo is cheaper to run but, you will spend some money on filtering setups, and the process of picking up more wmo etc.
Even after all that burning this type of fuel is not free of problems in your motor of choice.
I would look at Josh's setup on first time filtering as a less expensive way to enter the wmo filtering world.
I started out with a barrel pump with a filter head assembly attached and worked my way up from there.
Not trying to say don't do this but just want you ready for whats coming, lots of help and support here.
 

Josh Carmack

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PS when I say I have 1500 in it, I'm counting EVERYTHING from the totes I store in to the brass ball valves on my super sucker, and the 500Gal super sucker in the works, including my 4X8 trailer, and everything down to even the failed attempts. If you count electricity and TIME my fuel cost me from 50 cents to 2 bucks depending on rather or not I had to buy raw oil. I burn it in three vehicles, and I pays me a lot more to do what I do including changing filters on the side of the road.
 

Armo

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Filtering is a must, ive gotten away with dumping it in a few times but then i had a batch come in with coolant luckily this batch was in a gallon jug i left outside in the hot sun for a few days and seen the separation on the side of the jug.

I guess you might be able to make a system that filters it while you drive but the reason others have stayed away from this is most single pass centrifuges flow to slow to keep the engine fed and water can fill them to capacity quickly. The spinner style centrifuge needs multiple passes and a pump to feed it. Filters will plug or get filled with water/coolant leaving you stranded or cussing a long trip.

Most of us will agree a method of letting the oil sit to separate is a needed step to protect the filters from from the water and excess solids. Just cause you seen the large setups some people have doesnt make them necessary. I was filtering wmo and settling it using 1-2.5 gallon bottles and a single pass centrifuge. I did 100 gallons that way till it it was obviouse it worked well then i up scaled.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I started out with a couple 55 gallon drums.. one up on a sturdy work bench... the other below. Ball valve on the bottom of the drum to a couple filter heads and into the drum on the floor. Worked decent and only cost ~40-50 to setup... filtered down to 2 micron absolute.

Then I partnered up with a friend of mine and we went full scale with a small shed built just for this purpose.. multiple IBC totes for storage... pumps and a centrifuge. In total... we have combined probably over 1k in the setup but that includes building the building... running power... the pump driven centrifuge.. etc..

Our next step is a single pass 'fuge... to date.. We have burned 250 gallons or so of our fuel and cost of production was -0- (not including electricty obviously)... we scored over 100 gallons of gasoline/diesel mix for free from a local truck shop and our oil sources have been free thus far... may have to pay soon though :( (diesel fuel here has been north of $4 per gal. for several years... so thats 1k in fuel savings... so we are closing in on or passing the break even point... its all gravy from here.)

Start small... work your way up and be prepared for problems and a lot of questions... but there are plenty of people on the boards to help you along the way.

-Chris
 

The FNG

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The only thing I can say about filters is that it doesn't get the sludge. This is from 24hrs of centrifuging after running through a 23, 10, and 2 micron filter.

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I just don't think you want this in your pump or injectors...
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Yeah... when we first setup out centrifuge... I ran a batch of our "clean" oil through it for a couple hours... found a little sludge but what bothered me more then anything was the tiny specs of brass from the used atf in the batch.... metal made it through our filters...

A fuge is certainly the way to go... but there is cost. Would be nice if the OP knew someone in the WO game that could hook him up for a bit to see if it was worth it to him...

Sent from a pay phone... using Tapatalk v2.0
 

Josh Carmack

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Well, you said it, not me, but I thought it. Us regulars get tired of seein each others mug and smellin each others farts so we get all excited when someone new comes in to ask questions. This is a slow section on the group, I check it as I have time and enjoy seeing anything new by someone new or old.
 

KZF250

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Well Josh the OP may not check back in but I appreciate the info being passed down so thanks for that. Been readin all the new posts for now so that I can get familiar with all the different parts/systems and how they work. One of the reason why I wanted this type of motor is so that someday I can start to experiment with WMO.
 

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