Windshield sealant

The_Josh_Bear

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In my case it was actually done right, but I'm still getting some kind of leakage years later. Like I said it could almost be condensation, it's not a lot. But drips! Not good.

Fun story:
My windshield was coming off the seal in the lower driver's corner and had a big crack or two in it. So it needed to go anyway, but that time line got a big boost when I accidentally locked my keys inside my pickup.
Trying to figure out how to get into it(no AAA yet, no spares), it dawned on me that I could pry the windshield up and just tear the sucker out. LOL

So my co-worker and I did just that, after reading about the legality of driving in WA without a windshield. (Which is totally fine with rated eye protection, FYI)
We had some limited tools like screwdrivers and a mini-bar and went to work. It wasn't too bad since a good chunk was already loose.

Then I spent some good time cleaning the metal and rust and primering it for the window guy who did his thing on-site.
 

Sergey

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Eventually I WILL do exactly as you suggest. Only when it comes down to it, I'll cut the glass out, my own self.
That's great plan Selahdoor. But then, before calling mobile window unit, where do you get a good replacement windshield for truck that old ?
I scan junk yards from Arlington to Tacoma periodically and even if there a donor truck there with decent windshield )quite rare) to remove, I fail to remove it by myself without cracking it.
 

Selahdoor

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I generally just call the mobile windshield guys and they provide the windshield.
 

Sergey

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Did a search for the clips:

Thank you for the link, very useful.
One question I would have is that if the holes where existing pins are already rusted, new rivets in existing holes cannot be re-used, right ? New holes to be drilled to install new pins, isecn areas where metal is stil solid.
A friend of mine has 91 F250 and when we looked in that area one day it was found, that after removing debri dirt dead insects bird poo rust mixed with remants of uretane there was almost no solid metal left in that area, Just perforated metal foil....
 

Sergey

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What kind of tape did you use?
Sorry don't remember brand. It was wide enough (key here) to cover area from roof to glass, i.e. be wide enough to completely overlap trim (which is I think 1.0" aluminum bar). Likely the tape width was 2". it was not Scotch packaging tape, no. Something more flexible and sticky. Similar to duct tape but no fiberglass in it.
 

Selahdoor

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Thank you for the link, very useful.
One question I would have is that if the holes where existing pins are already rusted, new rivets in existing holes cannot be re-used, right ? New holes to be drilled to install new pins, isecn areas where metal is stil solid.
A friend of mine has 91 F250 and when we looked in that area one day it was found, that after removing debri dirt dead insects bird poo rust mixed with remants of uretane there was almost no solid metal left in that area, Just perforated metal foil....
When it gets that bad, you pretty much have to cut out old metal, and weld in new.


Sorry don't remember brand. It was wide enough (key here) to cover area from roof to glass, i.e. be wide enough to completely overlap trim (which is I think 1.0" aluminum bar). Likely the tape width was 2". it was not Scotch packaging tape, no. Something more flexible and sticky. Similar to duct tape but no fiberglass in it.
Reason I asked... Most tapes will NOT last in this area.

Gorilla tape is the only tape that I have found to actually seal, no matter what, and stay sealed. And LAST!!!.

The tape I just pulled off, had been there more than two years. Was put on when it was cold and wet. Still looked the same as when I put it on. And had only JUST started to leak a bit. I probably could have just pulled it off and replaced it. But decided to pull the trim and see if I could also seal the leak, before I put a new layer of tape back on.

Today, I have to find my caulk gun. Then I am going to put some lexel in that gap, and then cover that with more gorilla tape. I really do like the look of the tape instead of the trim.

I will say though... The gorilla tape did seal even in wet cold weather. And lasted that long. But I suspected that had I put it on in hot weather, and pressed it down really well, it would not have started leaking after two years. That's why I chose now, to do this repair. I'll be able to really seal this tape down in hot weather, and maybe it will stay sealed for longer.
 

Selahdoor

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I have never tried the stuff.

I can't remember that well, but I don't think Project Farm gave flex seal tape any better marks than Gorilla tape. I'll have to do a search and see if I can find that info again.
 

Sergey

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So my co-worker and I did just that, after reading about the legality of driving in WA without a windshield. (Which is totally fine with rated eye protection, FYI)
One day, a while back, I had a conversation with WSP about what is adequate eye protection (when riding a bike without windshield, which was legal in WA if operator can demonstrate adequate face protection). As side track a topic of driving motor vehicle without a windshield popped up. As I recall vaguely a note was that some motor vehicles are designed such that a windshield is a part of car body from the point of view of safety systems integrity. Therefore not all cars may be ok to drive without windshield, it may be a gray area, similar to CJ be driven without doors
just FYI from old days
 

Selahdoor

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Flex seal tape maybe?
Here is one of his tape videos.

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If I add my own experiences to this video...

Gorilla tape went on in cold wet conditions. Sealed well. Stayed sealed for over 2 years. It DID leave quite a bit of residue after all that weathering, but it weathered well. Looked like new, when I peeled it off.

Looks from the video like flex WILL seal better. There is nothing to say how well it will weather. But when it comes to taking it off, I think I would MUCH prefer to deal with the mess left by the gorilla tape, than what would be left by the flex tape.
 

IDIBRONCO

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As I recall vaguely a note was that some motor vehicles are designed such that a windshield is a part of car body from the point of view of safety systems integrity. Therefore not all cars may be ok to drive without windshield
This is absolutely true. Our trucks have a full frame under them so they should be fine to drive without a windshield.
 

Selahdoor

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Well, I decided to use Lexel. 10 bucks and done.

I'll let it cure a while, then I'll apply gorilla tape. I just like the looks of the tape. Probably going to toss the trim.
 

Selahdoor

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Well, I didn't get a pic of it with just the sealant in place.

It was raggedy looking anyway. Just trust me that I got the gap completely cleaned out, and got the sealant completely down into the gaps, and sealed to both the steel, and the glass.

I put the gorilla tape on because I don't like the trim. And the gorilla tape at least gives it a finished look. Better than all that raggedy looking lexel... LOL

I didn't put any tape along the bottom. That area looks raggedy even without the caulk. I don't care what it looks like.

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Truth be told, just cleaning all that up, and then reapplying the gorilla tape like this, in this weather, would probably have sealed it up again for several more years.

Doing the lexel first, then the tape, is just a better solution. I am not going to replace this windshield until I have a major reason to do so. So far all I have is a couple tiny 'stars'. Or actually, not even stars. Just tiny things.

Truck came with a gun rack. I use that to hold my homemade walking stick. LOL
 

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