Why

[Exekiel69]

did this happen?
I was trying to remove the bolt to loosen the tranny and the f#k!ng thing snap in two even with the tranny lifted a bit it would do the same, the manual doesn't say anything about doing it different either.

Welder please shed some light here too as I might have to go that route or drill another hole and tap it?

Thank You.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

EZ for what its worth, my 96 PSD did the same thing, along with my 92 IDI,
My fix was to put a bolt through there and use a big washer on it.
how well does it work ya ask, IDI has been like that for 3 yrs, and the PSD has been like that for over a year.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ooh thats a nasty....man that sux large!

Personally I would take an git it welded up good and re-drill the hole and thread it again....use lots o anti seize too I suppose....

 

[oldmisterbill]

Personally when U have steel into aluminum I don't like antiseize,because when it gets salt it corrodes too much.(it is the third metal in the mix and helps make more galvanic action).
I much prefer Dow corning 111 silicone valve sealent.Its a thick paste -looks like vasoline-waterproof& doesn't degrade with age.I used it often on salt water boats.
My 2 bits

 

[Exekiel69]

After some further investigation I see the bolt has some kind of material on the tip which what caused it to snap the threads on the tranny, My guess is that the other one will do the same, should I finish removing it? I still have some space on the tip so I could drill it and tap it or hold it like You Nick until I get it welded?

On a side note, can any of You near Me come hit Me with something, I promise I wont move, I need the truck running and this was just an upgrade since it vibrated too much for My taste and I was trowing parts at it.

 

[typ4]

The bolt on mine was the same way, I heated the other boss and let it cool and it came out with some lube.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

one of mine cracked even though I heated it.
put the washer on and forget it, 330 hp and 600ftlb tq anbd have had no problems yet.

 

[reklund]

You'll be fine with some washers and large bolts. It's not the most elegant solution, but it'll work.

There isn't really THAT much stress on there anyhow- the engine mounts take the brunt of the torsional force- that mount just keeps the trans tailshaft from bouncing around as you drive down bumpy roads. As long as it's clamped down to the crossmember pretty well, it shouldn't move at all.

Ryan

 

[Exekiel69]

I just happen to have some 3" grade 8 bolts so I'll use that to hold it until I can get it welded, Nick 300hp/600+ft is what I'm aiming at so I guess it'll be just fine thank You for the reference.

I tried heating the bolt and see if the material in the tip would melt but it didn't even feel it.

Well at least I'll have a new tranny mount .

 

[towcat]

There isn't really THAT much stress on there anyhow- the engine mounts take the brunt of the torsional force- that mount just keeps the trans tailshaft from bouncing around as you drive down bumpy roads. As long as it's clamped down to the crossmember pretty well, it shouldn't move at all.

Ryan

ryan-
bad trans mounts and loose bolts is the #1 cause of ZF bellhousing cracks outside of a clutch scattering.

 

[reklund]

Noted!

Ryan

 

[suv7734]

After some further investigation I see the bolt has some kind of material on the tip which what caused it to snap the threads on the tranny, My guess is that the other one will do the same, should I finish removing it? I still have some space on the tip so I could drill it and tap it or hold it like You Nick until I get it welded?

That buildup of material that you see is galling of the aluminum onto the steel. My guess would be that the bolt was hard to turn when you were trying to remove it. The more you turn the bolt the more aluminum it picks up which is why you see those areas where there are no threads left in that area where the boss broke. As far as removing the other one... how hard is it to turn? Once they are broken loose they should pretty much spin out by hand unless there is some binding due to mis-alignment. As OMrBill said never sieze etc is not a good choice where you have dissimilar metals he has mentioned one good option and I have had great service using Permatex 14H which is a teflon paste. I have seen steel or SS bolts into aluminum threads that have been in salt water for a number of years spin out like the day they were installed. A lot of broken bolts/knuckles and extensive repairs went into finding a good solution so I hope that helps. Let us know how that other bolt is spinning. As far as repair of the damage, if you have someone who is good at aluminum welding it won't be too bad just make sure it's CLEAN before any welding starts, re-drill and tap a new hole and you're ready to go. Did I mention it needs to be really CLEAN?

Bruce

 

[Exekiel69]

Ok I got it all back together now . I managed to remove the other one with heat so one side is still in one piece. I put two longer grade 8 bolts and drilled the threads out of both holes, then put some jb-weld (?) to hold them together until I have it welded. Hope this doesn't make it worse since The main idea this morning was to just put a new tranny mount to help the vibration at idle.
I'll post a pic later so You can see hold it looks now.
Thank You all guys.

 

[TLBREWER]

You'll be fine with some washers and large bolts. It's not the most elegant solution, but it'll work.

There isn't really THAT much stress on there anyhow- the engine mounts take the brunt of the torsional force- that mount just keeps the trans tailshaft from bouncing around as you drive down bumpy roads. As long as it's clamped down to the crossmember pretty well, it shouldn't move at all.

Ryan

Where you been?

Tom

 

[reklund]

Where you been?

Tom

Busier than a one legged man...

I'll call on Monday if I get a minute...I'm off work and hopefully will be catching up on things. We closed on the house yesterday, so all that is FINALLY done...

Ryan