Who's running WMO and on what motor???

[eatont9999]

"I see why you are using paper-based pre-filters but does that really help with the cost of not buying filters in the first place? The centrifuge should be able to clean up to .5 micron, so a filter should not be necessary. You might need to clean the centrifuge a few times, though. "
The pre filter is mainly to strain any large particle that may be in my source barrel ie. the oil I am getting from the dealer or my friends. I do get some oil with large nastiness in the bottom. This way is easier than screen filtering into my centrifuge tank. I spent like 5 bucks for those cheap oil filters and haven't changed them yet. I try to keep the oil thats in the centrifuge tank as clean as possible even before it goes through the centrifuge, because if not there will be some junk that will settle to the bottom. Although it shouldn't matter because my pickup is a couple inches above the bottom, but I like the piece of mind that all is clean.

It may seem like its a lot of extra steps but it isn't really and I smile every time I fill my truck tank.

I guess if they are cheap and don't need to be changed much, it still beats the pants off $4/gal! When I buy a place (again) and get out of apartments, I will be setting up a UMO/UVO processing unit. I guess I could use filters until then and do small amounts.

Is it true that I shouldn't burn oil from a diesel or is that hogwash? I tend not to believe just one person's opinion. I have 3 gallons of UMO that came out of my truck. I was thinking about filtering it and running it. $12 of free fuel, sure.

 

[greasemonky]

Well not being a expert on the subect, I have only my opinion to give.

I have read that: 1. There is a heavy amount of carbon, soot, coal whatever you want to call it, that gets in diesel crankcase oil. This can be very abrasive to the injection pump and injectors.
2. Sulfur From the diesel fuel changes to or forms sulfuric acid in the crankcase. This can be very corrosive to the fuel system.

With that said, there are ways still to clean it up to be used. They say the soot can be removed by centrifuge, which I have not tried a specific batch of just diesel oil myself so I can't validate that. Now for the acid, there are products out there that are called Ion Exchange Resins and you can buy them specific for this application of acid removal.

So, for me to feel comfortable enough to pour a large quantity into my tank I would use both those procedures in my filtering process.

 

[Boston]

You are welcome to include my system if you like but its a bit unconventional as far as oil systems go. I kinda lucked out with farm plates and so I can have a larger style system.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47247

 

[dieselweasel]

I've done approx. 2000 kms so far on up to 50% WMO/#2 mix. This is in a '94 VW Jetta with 1.9L idi. I collect the oil in a 55 gal drum with a drain valve in the bottom. The oil is sucked approx. 6" from the bottom and through a 1 micron (nominal) water filter, with a magnet in the bowl. Not a complex system but it seems to work fine.

 

[eatont9999]

Greasemonkey,

If the sulfur in used diesel oil creates sulfuric acid, wouldn't it be logical to assume the fuel would create sulfuric acid in the combustion chamber thus eating the pistons and bores?

Do you know of an article explaining the issue?

 

[greasemonky]

Greasemonkey,

If the sulfur in used diesel oil creates sulfuric acid, wouldn't it be logical to assume the fuel would create sulfuric acid in the combustion chamber thus eating the pistons and bores?

Do you know of an article explaining the issue?

I have a book I read through some time ago. "Chilton's Diesel Guide by James Joseph" Copyright 1980. Not sure if you can find it online. The information is on page 91. There is a lot of outdated info in the book I noticed but it still has some good stuff in there.
Here is a few sentences: "So the burnt gases and unburnt fuel that may slip past the pistons' rings and into the crankcase's oil also contain sulphur that, in solution, becomes sulphuric acid, a notorious high corrosive."
"Frequent oil changes, using only diesel-grade ube oil that contains anti-acid additives, not only rid the engine of oil containing acid, but puts into the crankcase fresh oil specially formulated to fight the acidic and abrasively sooty by-products of diesel combustion."

 

[Armo]

Here is a few sentences: "So the burnt gases and unburnt fuel that may slip past the pistons' rings and into the crankcase's oil also contain sulphur that, in solution, becomes sulphuric acid, a notorious high corrosive."
"Frequent oil changes, using only diesel-grade ube oil that contains anti-acid additives, not only rid the engine of oil containing acid, but puts into the crankcase fresh oil specially formulated to fight the acidic and abrasively sooty by-products of diesel combustion."

I wanted to add to this. With ultra low sulfur deisel use being pretty standard most newer diesel motor oils more specifically Delo 400 low emmissions diesel motor oil now have much lower anti-acid additive in them. I know in the delo 400 case it has actually improoved the lubrication properties of the oil having lowered the amount of an additive that only neutralized an acid but if someone still is somehow getting high sulfur fuel or using an additive they may want to know that bit of info. Its also worth noting that a lot of motor oils by themselves contain sulfur as well.
As for any damage i cant say ive seen any with the current fuel but as for gear lube(it usually has a high sulfur amount) with a lack of changing gear lube i have seen pitting in parts from it.