j2005
Registered User
So who's running WMO on what motor and what are your thoughts and advice to future/present WMO runners?
Who's running WMO and on what motor???
- Thread starter j2005
- Start date
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
Search this section, you will learn allot about who is running it, in what vehicles, and how much they are running.
PZ
PZ
j2005
Registered User
i was just trying to put a list together for anyone that gets on here and looks at this. It is also for people to make a post on how they like...a pre search if you will.
phazertwo
Die Summer DIE!
I cant recommend anything as far as setups since mine still isnt functioning how i would like so its been a work in progress. Only thing i can say is clean clean clean also dont depend on sock filters as your primary filtration method. I have a 1 micron extra large sock filter and i gravity feed through it for my second stage of filtration after the settling stage and it still plugs the 10 micron and 2 micron canister filters after it.
The motors ive tried WMO on arent to specific but i guess ill list what i have used it in and the results anyways.
1976 Ford 9600 tractor if i recall direct injection I6 turbo the injection pump is an old style piston pump with its own separate oil. At first i added 2.5g for half a tank then added another 2.5g and finally a 3rd 2.5g for half a tank to see how it responded. The fuel is black as coal but it runs way quitter has quit a bit more power seems to kick off less black smoke under heavy load and for some reason the engine doesn't seem to run as hot even though im able to now load my scrapper full of dirt in 4th low where before it was 3rd low. The downside is when first starting the tractor i see some white smoke till its warmed up the upside i know its cooled down enough for shut down when i see a very light haze of white smoke return. Its always hazed even on diesel cause i backed the timing down a touch when i reinstalled the IP(leaky freeze plug behind it). I just never put the timing back cause the tractor ran way cooler at the current IP timing while working harder but with WMO its a bit more substantial of a white haze.
1845 case skid steer (cant recall year) has a little 4 cylinder direct injection non-turbo rotary IP. This one has been the oddest out of the bunch it had more power with less white smoke at an idle it also stopped puffing black under heavy load. Easier starts even when it got cold out tested down to 20F would fire right up but turned into no go without some starting fluid at -5F but the mix was thinned a bit at that point. This engine always overheats and with WMO it seemed to take longer to overheat (thinking it may also have a bad head gasket coupled with 1 faulty injector but thats y i experimented with this engine first knowing it had a few issues and possibly killing it wouldn't be a big downer.)
96 dodge ram cummins with the 215hp pump all stock motor except exhaust. With WMO i barely can get it to puff black but when i go back to diesel i can make it puff a pretty decent cloud of black. The power seems about the same and so does the fuel consumption though the exhaust oder definitely smells of WMO. When its cool out it hazes white pretty good when first started till its warmed up, once its warmed up the haze doesnt return. It also seems to smooth out the idle and seems a bit quieter on wmo
The motors ive tried WMO on arent to specific but i guess ill list what i have used it in and the results anyways.
1976 Ford 9600 tractor if i recall direct injection I6 turbo the injection pump is an old style piston pump with its own separate oil. At first i added 2.5g for half a tank then added another 2.5g and finally a 3rd 2.5g for half a tank to see how it responded. The fuel is black as coal but it runs way quitter has quit a bit more power seems to kick off less black smoke under heavy load and for some reason the engine doesn't seem to run as hot even though im able to now load my scrapper full of dirt in 4th low where before it was 3rd low. The downside is when first starting the tractor i see some white smoke till its warmed up the upside i know its cooled down enough for shut down when i see a very light haze of white smoke return. Its always hazed even on diesel cause i backed the timing down a touch when i reinstalled the IP(leaky freeze plug behind it). I just never put the timing back cause the tractor ran way cooler at the current IP timing while working harder but with WMO its a bit more substantial of a white haze.
1845 case skid steer (cant recall year) has a little 4 cylinder direct injection non-turbo rotary IP. This one has been the oddest out of the bunch it had more power with less white smoke at an idle it also stopped puffing black under heavy load. Easier starts even when it got cold out tested down to 20F would fire right up but turned into no go without some starting fluid at -5F but the mix was thinned a bit at that point. This engine always overheats and with WMO it seemed to take longer to overheat (thinking it may also have a bad head gasket coupled with 1 faulty injector but thats y i experimented with this engine first knowing it had a few issues and possibly killing it wouldn't be a big downer.)
96 dodge ram cummins with the 215hp pump all stock motor except exhaust. With WMO i barely can get it to puff black but when i go back to diesel i can make it puff a pretty decent cloud of black. The power seems about the same and so does the fuel consumption though the exhaust oder definitely smells of WMO. When its cool out it hazes white pretty good when first started till its warmed up, once its warmed up the haze doesnt return. It also seems to smooth out the idle and seems a bit quieter on wmo
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j2005
Registered User
well it seems like, from what i have read, that the best deal is to run a separate and start on diesel, switch to WMO, then purge before shutdown...just like WVO. when i get back home to texas i will be trying this out on my dad's 84 isuzu pup...40+ mpg in the summer with the ac blowing cold and a small load of whatever in the longbed...cant be beat. i will definitely be letting y'all know how it goes
greg_a_morton
Full Access Member
I have ran it many years in many engines
1986 f250 with 6.9 IDI with up to 75% wmo ran good with haze intill warmed up.
2000 f250 with 7.3 DI with up to 20% wmo ran really good but had a haze at idle all the time.
1986 kubota 7100 hst 3 cylinder IDI I run this one at 75% wmo all year round. I run royal purple oil in engine and it has low hours and it runs a white haze all the time whether you run strait diesel or oil. Runs smooth either way. It will run three months on a tank with general usage and holds 3 gallons.
My 67 mercury 350
with the 4bt not much over 20%wmo with white haze until warmed up.
with the 7.3 IDI so far I have went 50% and I will stick to that at the most.
I am building a new filtering setup that I will use 3-4 home water filters and I am buying the water separater filters from Blackdiesel.com. My main problem in the past is small amounts of water in the system that did not get filtered out. This is a major problem because it causes a sludge like algae buildup that causes blockage. I will start a thread to my oil filtration system by next weekend.
Whats sad is even with me using 50% wmo in my truck it will still cost me $40 a week to fill up the 19 gallon tank!
1986 f250 with 6.9 IDI with up to 75% wmo ran good with haze intill warmed up.
2000 f250 with 7.3 DI with up to 20% wmo ran really good but had a haze at idle all the time.
1986 kubota 7100 hst 3 cylinder IDI I run this one at 75% wmo all year round. I run royal purple oil in engine and it has low hours and it runs a white haze all the time whether you run strait diesel or oil. Runs smooth either way. It will run three months on a tank with general usage and holds 3 gallons.
My 67 mercury 350
with the 4bt not much over 20%wmo with white haze until warmed up.
with the 7.3 IDI so far I have went 50% and I will stick to that at the most.
I am building a new filtering setup that I will use 3-4 home water filters and I am buying the water separater filters from Blackdiesel.com. My main problem in the past is small amounts of water in the system that did not get filtered out. This is a major problem because it causes a sludge like algae buildup that causes blockage. I will start a thread to my oil filtration system by next weekend.
Whats sad is even with me using 50% wmo in my truck it will still cost me $40 a week to fill up the 19 gallon tank!
jonathan
Full Access Member
ive thought about cuting it with red dye....... in my f250 i have been runing 50/50 every once in a while i am going to run 100% diesel just clean out the wmo
greasemonky
Full Access Member
I run mostly a 50/50 blend but I have mix a bit thicker. I notice no change except harder start when cold. Maybe a bit of haze more smoke. I usually start and shut down on plain diesel.
I Filter mine with a centrifuge and heat setup. I wouldn't do it any other way. It's amazing what that thing does. I have seen the water filter setup too. But for 100 bucks you can get a centrifuge and never by a filter again. I'm using a 55gal drum all setup on a rolling cart. I use a coleman camping stove to heat the oil to about 180* or so. All the water is evaporated and all sludge and particles are captured in the centrifuge.
Plus the WMO that I get is from my brother who works at a dealership. The oil is from newer low mileage cars and is very clean. Oil from older vehicles takes much longer to filter. Lots of sludge. A buddy gave me some(good oil, yea right) that took me 4hrs to clean 10gal. Be careful in your source of oil. And also I use only oil from gas engines. Diesel engine oil has higher levels of sulfuric acid which is highly corrosive. The sulfur in the diesel fuel chemically changes to sulfuric acid when introduced into the crankcase.
I Filter mine with a centrifuge and heat setup. I wouldn't do it any other way. It's amazing what that thing does. I have seen the water filter setup too. But for 100 bucks you can get a centrifuge and never by a filter again. I'm using a 55gal drum all setup on a rolling cart. I use a coleman camping stove to heat the oil to about 180* or so. All the water is evaporated and all sludge and particles are captured in the centrifuge.
Plus the WMO that I get is from my brother who works at a dealership. The oil is from newer low mileage cars and is very clean. Oil from older vehicles takes much longer to filter. Lots of sludge. A buddy gave me some(good oil, yea right) that took me 4hrs to clean 10gal. Be careful in your source of oil. And also I use only oil from gas engines. Diesel engine oil has higher levels of sulfuric acid which is highly corrosive. The sulfur in the diesel fuel chemically changes to sulfuric acid when introduced into the crankcase.
j2005
Registered User
so what about using something like b12 chem tool to help with the sludge and crap that is in the oil...will it make it too corrosive?
greasemonky got any pics of your set up?
greasemonky got any pics of your set up?
greasemonky
Full Access Member
I am in the process of making a video of my setup. From start to finish. Then I will start a thread for it. I am thinking about a filter head unit maybe 100micron just for pumping out of the barrel my brother brings from the dealership. Currently i'm just using a paint filter pouring into my 55gal centrifuge setup. I use an old KSE Racing power steering pump and a 1\3hp motor. I use the pump to power my centrifuge and to pump it out of my source barrel. I'll snaps some pics tomorrow and post up in here for ya till I get the video up.
j2005
Registered User
awesome...i am researching the crap out of centrifuges, what else am i going to do at work, and trying to think of a good setup. maybe after seeing your setup ill get mine going.
greg_a_morton
Full Access Member
$100 for a centrifuge? I must be looking in the wrong places as I have been looking for a while.
jonathan
Full Access Member
greasemonky
Full Access Member
Well I bought mine from ebay it was under a 100 with the gauge and fittings. I don't see them on there now but here is the same as what I Have. This is the next best price. I have the 60GPH unit. This site has some good info too. Check it out!
http://pabiodieselsupply.com/shop/oil-centrifuge-c-79.html?osCsid=c264009ec08e5deaae77e646129df7a5
Update:I just check my records It was 135$ that I gave for my unit off ebay. Sorry I really thought it was under a hundred. Still In my opinion more economical and better filtering than socks, bags, Blue Jeans or whatever your using...
http://pabiodieselsupply.com/shop/oil-centrifuge-c-79.html?osCsid=c264009ec08e5deaae77e646129df7a5
Update:I just check my records It was 135$ that I gave for my unit off ebay. Sorry I really thought it was under a hundred. Still In my opinion more economical and better filtering than socks, bags, Blue Jeans or whatever your using...
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