which way to advance pump timing one tooth--emergency!!

troupp

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Ok, let me make everyone aware that I am NOT an idiot. I am an ASE certified master tech, that can see the obvious. The truck runs. It is very sluggish compared to how it did run, egts are way high way quicker.. this suggests its off a tooth, which it was. For most people, removing the housing would be dumb, as they do not already have another pump, housing and gear already attached. I've switched this twice before, but like was said before, I made much better marks between the 2 pumps to ensure it didn't get messed up. This time I thought the allen keyway would be accurate enough until I saw first hand how much play it had, by then it was too late. As Mel said for most people, it would be worthless for them to remove the housing just to fight the pump/gear bolts on the floor, where while mounted in the truck, the gear remains stationary to remove said bolts.

I thank everyone for their help, and semi-constructive criticizism. But, when I swtich my pump again after getting a reman one, or moose pump, I'll probably switch it just as I did this time, because The other housing has no corrosion build up on it, and I need to do a valley gasket at the same time. so I might as well make everything as clean and accessable as possible.
 

subway

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dont know how far away you are but i have a working timing meter if you have the fat adapter on the #1 injector line. you could swing by some evening to check out where it is at.
 

troupp

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Jred... Thanks.. however I rarely get a day off that isn't already accounted for. If I ever get a chance to get down that way I will surely take you up on the offer, for right now it's getting timed by ear. Hopefully, that'll be close enough for now, it's worked for the last 5 years.
 

icanfixall

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Troupp... Not one of the posters have said your an idiot nor would any of us on this forum say that about you. What your not seeing is the reason some of us posting here is the very reason for your problems with removing the gear andpump as one piece. You got it off gear time because you did this job the way you did. Had you not removed the parts like you did there would be no discussion on this topic. Now for your reasons as to why the gear timing got off is important to know. I thank you for describing why the problem happened. You tried something differant and it got you... I'm sorry for that too but you have helped many to understand what can happen to a well trained mechanic too. I know a few things about these engines and I'm approaching 10,000 posts. I'm not formally trained nor do I think I know everything about these engines. Is there a right way and a wrong way to do something on the engines.... Nope.... But there is an easier way... Thats been proven over and over.
 

troupp

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Icanfixall-- I tried this just for the simple reason, that I thought it'd work out much better.

Notice to all-- DO NOT TRY TO KEEP YOUR PUMP TIMING BY USING THE MAX FUEL SCREW AND AN ALLEN WRENCH!!

That being said.. I'm sure I wouldve been alright had I lined everything up, then used a straightedge to draw a line through the dowel and center of pump gear out to the housing like I had previously. Then transfered the marks to the new setup so as to be identical.

End result, pump off by 4 teeth, truck still ran, but had very little power. now lining it up by hand, gear then add housing, then add pump.. Haven't had time to post back.
 

BigRigTech

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I have a factory IH manual from 1988 for the 7.3, it goes into detail regarding the removal of the IP housing to change the pump.....Not that I would do it that way when the other more common way is so damn easy a chimp could handle it.:rotflmao
 

typ4

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I have a factory IH manual from 1988 for the 7.3, it goes into detail regarding the removal of the IP housing to change the pump.....Not that I would do it that way when the other more common way is so damn easy a chimp could handle it.:rotflmao

Dude, that was cold.

Also , troupp what do you work on as a master tech?
 
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BigRigTech

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Dude, that was cold.

Also , troupp what do you work on as a master tech?

I hope I didn't offend anyone, I didn't mean too....I just can't understand why IH went into big detail on pulling the cover to change the pump when we all know how easily/quickly we can change it with the cover in place....I wasn't trying to make fun of Truop, sorry if you saw it that way.:dunno...Poor wording on my part I guess.:rolleyes:
 

typ4

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I hope I didn't offend anyone, I didn't mean too....I just can't understand why IH went into big detail on pulling the cover to change the pump when we all know how easily/quickly we can change it with the cover in place....I wasn't trying to make fun of Truop, sorry if you saw it that way.:dunno...Poor wording on my part I guess.:rolleyes:

I really found the humor in it , so no worries on my part.:D:D

I would only pull the cover for an oil leak, and the one time some dope tried harbor freight vise grip types to remove the 3 gear bolts. That was a fun job.
 

troupp

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Im a master tech with all 8 auto ASE's and a light diesel ASE. It's really not about education at this point, I was trying to cheat and save time.. not such a good deal now.

And I wish I would've taken the truck to that zoo, as the chimp probably could've done a quicker job at this point!
 

BigRigTech

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Man, we've all been there at some point...I learned a long time ago short cuts and my genes don't mix....If I do anything it has to be the friggin long-hard way or it doesn't work for me just like my dad and grandfathers...Just the way it works in my blood I guess....My old co-worker/buddy Jimmy trained me to do engine work - he can take more friggin short cuts than you can shake a stick at and get away with it every time....I try one of them and it bites me right on the ass pronto!!!.....He laughs:rotflmao, I curse.-cuss
 

troupp

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It's back alive, and properly timed. Now I've gotta turn some fuel back to it. decided since I had to reseal my valley pan I would order a uhaul pump and throw it in until I have the supporting intercooler for a moosepump. I had to remove the top mounting stud to get the pump to fit down in. couldn't clear the injector lines with the downpipe and firewall with it in. Other than that, it runs approximately how it should for a stock pump. Now I've gotta get it timed.
 

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