Alex G 7
Full Access Member
Well here i am again with a question where can i find a block for my 7.3 because mine is really eched out and not suppose to machine the block's deck so not sure what to do any advice?
where would i find a 7.3 block
- Thread starter Alex G 7
- Start date
Well depending on how bad you can deck the block, there are some dimensions that need to be kept in check but no reason not to cut deck.
What is wrong with your block?
I just tossed 3 blocks for scrap
one was for sure, two probably, third could have been sleeved!
What is wrong with your block?
I just tossed 3 blocks for scrap
one was for sure, two probably, third could have been sleeved!
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
well when i looked up spec it specifically said to not machine the deck at all now i figures if it was a little thin etching itd b ok but this is pretty bad id upload a pick but not sure how to do that off my phone
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Yeah, machining the deck on these blocks can have a lot of problems associated with it. The pistons have about .040 protrusion already, if you deck the block at all, you may have to surface the pistons or risk head or valve contact. Etching should not create any problems unless it migrates into the fire ring. If it is only around the water or oil passages you can fill with hylomar or, if really bad, braze it to fill.
Desert Diesel Dog
Registered User
Great Tool For Finish Work
Regarding... Surface That Can't Easily Be Machined
Subject… Great Tool For Finish Work
First…. I don’t really know anything about rebuilding an engine… other than the basic principles.
I am certainly not suggesting that you use my technique… that would be entirely up to you.
I am a retired machinist. There is a technique that I never actually saw anyone else use in many years. It’s Amazingly Simple.
It’s like a file only using Wet & Dry Sandpaper [recommend 180 grit]
You can just keep rubbing it back and forth without regard to file teeth and get very fine finishes. Also, you can really 'blend' surfaces and get beautiful results
Get a very flat piece of steel about the size of a large file. Carefully do a very good job of putting on good quality double back tape. [don’t allow any bumps] I used ‘carpet laying’ tape. Place this down and sticking it to the ‘back side’ of some Good Quality Wet and Dry [sand] Paper. Cut around the sides with a knife to 'free it'.
[I had an assortment of nice flat ground bars that I used. My favorites were about an inch or so wide and about 9 inches long to match the width of the wet and dry paper. Obviously many sizes and grits could be used]
This will give you a tool that you can do some Amazing Finish work with.
I almost always used 180 grit and was still able to do very fine work with this [mostly] on aluminum but basically anything. Even though 180 grit starts a little course, it will ‘wear in’.
Very Important… use good quality paper. I had some ‘cheap import’ stuff for rough work but the quality brands were Much better.
Again… I don’t know what this engine needs at all… but… Maybe you could work down the bad places a few thousandths or so and blend it back to the ‘basic surface’.
In any case… this is a GREAT TECHNIQUE that I would like to share with people. [Honestly, I have never seen anyone else do this in many years working in shops… maybe I invented it??
]
Regarding... Surface That Can't Easily Be Machined
Subject… Great Tool For Finish Work
First…. I don’t really know anything about rebuilding an engine… other than the basic principles.
I am certainly not suggesting that you use my technique… that would be entirely up to you.
I am a retired machinist. There is a technique that I never actually saw anyone else use in many years. It’s Amazingly Simple.
It’s like a file only using Wet & Dry Sandpaper [recommend 180 grit]
You can just keep rubbing it back and forth without regard to file teeth and get very fine finishes. Also, you can really 'blend' surfaces and get beautiful results
Get a very flat piece of steel about the size of a large file. Carefully do a very good job of putting on good quality double back tape. [don’t allow any bumps] I used ‘carpet laying’ tape. Place this down and sticking it to the ‘back side’ of some Good Quality Wet and Dry [sand] Paper. Cut around the sides with a knife to 'free it'.
[I had an assortment of nice flat ground bars that I used. My favorites were about an inch or so wide and about 9 inches long to match the width of the wet and dry paper. Obviously many sizes and grits could be used]
This will give you a tool that you can do some Amazing Finish work with.
I almost always used 180 grit and was still able to do very fine work with this [mostly] on aluminum but basically anything. Even though 180 grit starts a little course, it will ‘wear in’.
Very Important… use good quality paper. I had some ‘cheap import’ stuff for rough work but the quality brands were Much better.
Again… I don’t know what this engine needs at all… but… Maybe you could work down the bad places a few thousandths or so and blend it back to the ‘basic surface’.
In any case… this is a GREAT TECHNIQUE that I would like to share with people. [Honestly, I have never seen anyone else do this in many years working in shops… maybe I invented it??
]
Last edited:
quickster
Full Access Member
Your in Jersey so check Craigs. There is a guy parting out an'88 with a 7.3. Central Jersey Craiglist
93blklightning
Full Access Member
I'm getting ready to have a spare, but I'm keeping it. My suggestion is IF you can find one, keep your old one. They're getting really hard to find. REALLY hard, when I was looking for one, I found only four or five, one was in Knoxville, Tn. the guy swore it had a blown head gasket. When I asked if he was sure, he got very angry, said he ******* knows, he took the heads off, I thought to myself ..man this is a hateful old buzzard. I said well only reason is, because a lot of people think that's the problem when the block is cavitated. But anyway, getting back to the point, he was keeping the heads, and fuel system, said he bought a short block from his local dealership. So now he wants $1,400.00 for his short block, which was his core charge. Point is, even if its expensively repairable, but never the less repairable. Keep it, won't be long, and the only ones you'll find are from people like that.
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
so what im hearing essentially is if i cant get it machined cause its too far gone im pretty much sh*t up a creek because u just cant find blocks anymore? ... i was hoping maybe somewhere there was still an abundance of them.
hotshotidi
Full Access Member
eazy pull new ringold pa has a u haul one
93blklightning
Full Access Member
Nah , not exactly , their still there. Just not a lot . And getting fewer each day
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
and how would i get a hold of this person?
Alex G 7
Full Access Member
well if u know of any and could pass on the info that would be great i've been searching everywhere craigslist, ebay, and other websites that claim to have one and dont
hotshotidi
Full Access Member
u pull it ur self i could help i have to go there soon for parts
hotshotidi
Full Access Member
torch is 20 and fork lift is free 2 dollar entry
quickster
Full Access Member
Central Jersey Craiglist search ford idi look for ad titled "dump body $800 " he still has the motor, keeping the trans was posted Feb 26
