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Gotta-B-Ford

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Put in new glow plugs (relay was not hooked to hot source) but is now,and works well.New injectors installed and still a miss at idle and every once and a while it will stumble when you let off and give it fuel again,but most of the time it will run smooooth on the highway.Bought a compression tester today and i'm eager to see the results!iiiiif the worst, who has the best long block avaliable or give any pointers as to what to look for.:eek:
 

Gotta-B-Ford

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Reman pump installed in 03 but thats not the only problem!!!!! Took it on a 6mile warm up this morning to do the compression check D@&*! head gasket blew, oil on the belt threw it off, water in the oil,OIL COVERED THE FRAME AND REAREND(DRIPING OFF EVERYTHING)$#@!. And then theres the tow bill!!!!!!!Ford has a drop in for 5325.00 2 yr war. can get a long block for 3600.00 1 yr wat. OH what to do???????????:rotflmao gotta laugh you just gotta
 

Exekiel69

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I read promar has a sleeved complete unit for $3100 with shipping included and a warranty.
 

Diesel JD

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Before you believe its a head gasket or a bad engine problem, make sure it isn't an oil cooler oring, rear main seal, or something of that nature. Where are you in Florida? You still want to check that compression, changing a gasket is not that bad. A rebuild is a big job, and a reman block might be a good call. Good luck,
JD
 

Gotta-B-Ford

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TKS JD,makes me feel better to here any good replies.I live in lakeland FL.I believe i will do the compressin check sunday and will post the results here when i am done.I have a new oil cooler and o-rings on the shelf but how can you tell if that is the problem?And the oil looks to be coming from the pass. side some where up front, to much fluid to be able to pin point.And as far as the miss goes i loosened each inj. this morning and could here a real difference in each one,miss still there.:dunno
 

Diesel JD

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Too bad I'm a couple hundred miles away....up in Gainesville.... I would really wash the engine compartment as best as I could, being careful not to get any water in the intake, on the wiring or on a hot injector pump.... beyond that, it can all get wet as far as I know. Then maybe you can have a better idea. Up front, you could look at the oil cooler orings, the front main seal, the water pump and head gaskets and/or valve covers. Like you say, the bad thing is when you get a bad leak you have oil everywhere and its hard to tell where its coming from. Do you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge? If so is it possible the line is split or cracked? Good luck,
JD
 

Gotta-B-Ford

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Pulled the glow plugs this morning and did the compression check,7 0f the glow plugslloked clean but # 4 was sooted up and wet.and when turning the engine over doing the check there was coolant praying from the #4 hole.So here are the #'s 1-420 3-460 5-390 7-420 2-420 4-400 6-420 8-420 and where was the oil coming from up front and why is there a milkshake in the bottom???? And where does so much coolant come from with comp. #'s like these??????? And what is up with #3 and #5???????:dunno :confused:
 

Gotta-B-Ford

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Does the intake have any water jackets running thru it??Could it be? or cracked head???A person(machanic?) had just put new head gaskets on less than 100 miles ago and said that the heads had been pressure tested AOK.:dunno
 

Gotta-B-Ford

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What about injector cups are they surounded by coolant????????:dunno SOME BODY HELP I'M ABOUT TO HAVE A MASSIVE CORONARY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! All these ideas bouncing around in my brain,I know theres plenty of room to bounce!!!!!!!:dunno :dunno :dunno :dunno
 

Full Monte

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Gotta B,

Slow down there, Buddy. Please adjust your User CP signature to tell us some pariticulars about your rig. The more the better. Do you have a 6.9 or 7.3?

Coolant in the cylinders/oil is usually a sign of a bad head gasket. If you have a 7.3, it could also be pinholes from the cylinders into the coolant chamber.

Investigate one thing at a time. You'll get there.
 

Diesel JD

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I bet its cavitation.... that block needs to come out. I'd get a short block from promar, check your current heads, and throw it in. Alternately you could sleeve #4, but you really should sleeve all the cylinders and that would be expensive. You had better at least sleeve #4, 7, and 8, as these are the three most likely to bite you with the cavitation worm. Sleeving is controversial. Most guys here like the idea, but recently we have had a dissenting opinion or two. i have not built a block, so I'm not qualified to vote.... but one thing is for sure, you really need to have a machinist who knows how to install dry sleeves in a diesel...you want him to warranty his work and have done this a few other times. This will cost you anywhere from $75-150 per hole depending on your market. While you're at it, you might as well put a new set of rings and bearings in and if you're pistons aren't well within limits you'll need new ones of those too. Its really a shame cause your compression is good. The book specs are 2195-440, but in the real world you look for ~300-~500 and the lowest hole within 25% of the highest. Lets take your two extremes #3 and 5 at 390 and 460 respectively... 460X.25=115 so for you to have a hole out of spec you'd need to see one <= 460-115=345...as you see well within spec, but if you keep driving it with the big C the block may just lock up and destroy itself. Sorry to hear about it,
JD
 

Diesel JD

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I have to edit...this only applies if its a 7.3, 6.9s normally don't cavitate but do eat head gaskets and crack heads on occaison. For some reason I have been assuming you had a 7.3 but reading back you didn't say that you did. The head repair often will only work on a 6.9 if the block has been cleaned thoroughly, and the heads as well, and the proper torque sequences and values followed on removal and installation... lets hear what engine you have before we proceed.
 

Gotta-B-Ford

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Sorry,(94 7.3 idi w/turbo)have only the fly wheel & motor mounts to unbolt and it will be out!! :rotflmao Looking at cummins options,any input?????
 

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