What is this stacking my # 4 injector?

[ADDgolfer]

Hey guys and gals. Look, this is my first post. Not that I haven't wanted to lately, especially the last few weeks with my "retired" 1990 E-350 ambulance converted to work truck. No offence, I was on deadline from the city to get it runnable, not just registered and insured as it has been for years, but street worthy. Taking the time to organize my thoughts just didn't seem to be ummm priority.
I'll do a run down of what I have had to do later, Today I am supposed to give the 27 yr old inspector (my truck is older) an update. I am not peeved at him I respect his job of code enforcement, kind of like a tax guy I think?
But this...
The odd different injector sitting in the number 4 position. Three injectors including this one on the driver side are leaking, so...
after replacing all the steel rusted fuel lines, including dropping the 38 gallon fuel tank to replace the rusted sender ports. (I ended up repair them, I can't spend $hundreds to buy a six 7/16th bolt configuration for new sender) I was going to replace the return caps from the kit I bought last week.
Anyways... (see why I couldn't get around to posting?) I do tend to go off subject, hence the screen name.

I have spent all morning searching for what this injector is and why it's different. I can't unthread the compression nut, the brass section below it twists with it and it's tight, You know the feeling, like a bolt getting ready to break tight?

After I get done with this I have to remove items out of the area (E series) to pull the master brake after bolt cutting the three very rusted, obvious leaking (they're wet) to reroute those. I have already replace all the steel lines along the rail and to each wheel. I may be in Florida but the truck was bought from Akron/Canton area of Ohio 15 yrs ago

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Why yes I do keep the air intake covered with a shop rag

 

[Thewespaul]

That would be an adapter for timing readings. You should have a hex for a 5/8 wrench on the brass part to remove the injection nut without it spinning. If there’s no hex you could probably hold it tight enough with some adjusting pliers.

 

[Black dawg]

Slide the plastic up.....you will see the hex

 

[ADDgolfer]

That would be an adapter for timing readings. You should have a hex for a 5/8 wrench on the brass part to remove the injection nut without it spinning. If there’s no hex you could probably hold it tight enough with some adjusting pliers.

Thanks I'll take a look. I did try and use a channel Lock last night but wasn't sure if I was wasting time or possible damage something. Today I've been working on the master cylinder and the three rusted lines routed around the steering box. Of course they are all in their factory clamps in unreachable places and with some of the extra Medtec stuff.
The ambulance package I swear takes 3 times longer to do than an F series truck.
Getting the fill hose off the tank took me easily 4 hours. It's routed through an aluminum welded channel
This is looking down through the opening the fill neck attaches

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[Clb]

And so spill the beans....
Who were you in a former sigline\handle???

 

[ADDgolfer]

And so spill the beans....
Who were you in a former sigline\handle???

? No beans to spill. I use this handle often. If it appears I could be someone else playing April Fools? The low post count and all. I'm not that imaginative

 

[TahoeTom]

If you want to eliminate that timing adapter get a #4 injector line from a truck. Trucks had the adapter on #1 line. The line with the adapter is shortened by the length of the adapter so all the lines are the same total length.