Wait to start light goes out prematurely

Kahunias-J-puppy

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When wait to start light goes out, i turn the key and the starting is slow and battery sounds gives slow drawing sound like battery is dead.....
Then I turn the key back and wait 5 secs. Try it again, but this time i wait till after light goes out, then i watch to see voltmeter jump in positive direction and she starts right up beautifully....Im thinking the glow plug control switch needs replacing but its only 5 months old. Any other ideas or help here would be appreviated...

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MtnHaul

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i turn the key and the starting is slow

Is the engine turning over slow?

If so, then perhaps your battery cable terminals need a good cleaning. I had an intermittent issue with this and a good cleaning always worked.
 

franklin2

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When wait to start light goes out, i turn the key and the starting is slow and battery sounds gives slow drawing sound like battery is dead.....
Then I turn the key back and wait 5 secs. Try it again, but this time i wait till after light goes out, then i watch to see voltmeter jump in positive direction and she starts right up beautifully....Im thinking the glow plug control switch needs replacing but its only 5 months old. Any other ideas or help here would be appreviated...

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What happens if you wait till the voltmeter jumps up during the first go round?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Your glow plugs will still be "on" after the light goes out. This is called afterglow. When you cycle it a second time, the afterglow won't be as long. You should always start by watching your voltmeter instead of the light.
 

Kahunias-J-puppy

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Starts without issue. I got used to waiting until light went out and never had an issue. The last 2 days i have noticed the drain effect sound. So , i waited until i saw the jump , made the 2nd attempt and problem solved. I wanted to know if anyone had this experience and could these symptoms indicate a future problem with the gp control switch....
Thanks
Danny
What happens if you wait till the voltmeter jumps up during the first go round?

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franklin2

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It is probably an indication that your starting system is getting marginal. That could be the batteries are getting older or you have some resistance in the large wiring somewhere or your starter is getting marginal. It still starts ok now, but as the weather gets colder it will only get harder to start.

That is the only drawback to these engines, getting them started. The start system needs to be in tip top shape. Once you get them running, they can't be stopped.
 

Kahunias-J-puppy

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Batery cables, batteries, starter & alternator are all new , NOT REBUILT in the last year. Trucks runs excellant for a 94 turbo 7.3 with 120,000 miles..the total time it takes for the volt meter needle to jump from the initial turm of the key is 17 secs. I just wait an extra 5 secs from what im used to and the engine turns right over. Now, I'm in Massachisetts where the temp last week, with the wind chill was neg.5 degrees .when i started it i was standing outside the truck and she kicked right ovet in high idle..so now that i cured this with ya help, i will be moving on to address world peace, famine and tranquility...Thanks for ya help
It is probably an indication that your starting system is getting marginal. That could be the batteries are getting older or you have some resistance in the large wiring somewhere or your starter is getting marginal. It still starts ok now, but as the weather gets colder it will only get harder to start.

That is the only drawback to these engines, getting them started. The start system needs to be in tip top shape. Once you get them running, they can't be stopped.

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chillman88

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It is probably an indication that your starting system is getting marginal. That could be the batteries are getting older or you have some resistance in the large wiring somewhere or your starter is getting marginal. It still starts ok now, but as the weather gets colder it will only get harder to start.

That is the only drawback to these engines, getting them started. The start system needs to be in tip top shape. Once you get them running, they can't be stopped.

Ain't that the truth! The old wrecker I picked up for parts was a BEAR to get started (bad air intrusion, horrible bat cables, completely dead batteries) but when she finally kicked she ran beautiful. I'm constantly reminded how durable these beasts are, but also how temperamental they can be if the starting or fuel system acts up.
 

Macrobb

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Your batteries can't handle the ~300a from the glow plugs, plus cranking over the motor over at the same time, at least not at that temperature.

The WTS light seems to have a max time in the controller, while the glow time is controlled via a different circuit - it's totally based on current going through that squiggley resistor on the glow plug controller(up to a total second limit).
Typically, the glow plug controller finishes it's initial glow time before the WTS light turns off; however, if the resistance of the glow plug circuit is too low(all 8 plugs working, cold temps), it won't.
 

franklin2

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Even though people have started these trucks in very cold temps, Ford has an official temp that when you get below that, they recommend a block heater. I want to say it is -10? I can't remember where I saw that, was it on my sunvisor? I know the sunvisor tells you to push the throttle half-way for normal temps, and all the way for very cold temps when cranking.
 
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