picking one up tomorrow from a local diesel shop, excited to see how the truck will perform after its in, I know the proper way to install it but still nervous, then I have front frame shackle bushings and rear leaf spring bshings to do 
Wahoo finally new IP time !
- Thread starter HankHill
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
So... You know you need a 12 point socket thats a 5/16 size for the three drive bolts under the front gear cover... BTW the torque on those tiny bolts is 25 lbs. Seems a bit much but thats what the look calls for. They are a special hardened material and Nappa sells them for the u-joints bolts... Nive find there Travis... Thanks for finding this info and posting it years ago.....
good to know, the guys at the diesel shop told me they were torx bits, gonna have to check the toolbox, only question I have is how to get the fuel line from the fuel filter to the injection pump off, whats the easiest way? removing that grey fuel filter housing and twisting it? going to pick up the pump now, read tech article, will check back here when I get home with it
AZBLACKSMOKE
no truck payment
I found it easier to remove the lines at the injectors and pull them with the IP as a whole...then put the IP back in without them. I then installed them one/two at a time being careful to not mix them up and confuse the heck out of ya.
Have some stubby wrenches handy.
Have some stubby wrenches handy.
awesome for some reason I thought I had the 6.9l fuel inlet setup but it just twisted right off, I got new grommets for the fuel line too, now I have a big problem I have a e4od trans, how do I get the entire fipl assembly off
also, my pump was rebuilt by an athorized stanadyne dealer, however there is no timing scribe on the pump like there is on my current one, the one on my current pump is near the factory mark on the timing gear cover, but this brand new pumps timing mark is right in the middle, underneath the piece where you put a 9/16 wrench to rotate it, *** is up with this? I'm not sure what to do now
gonecrazyi
Full Access Member
All you really can do it put it on so it looks like the pump isnt leaning one direction or the other. Once its running you can have it timed to findo out where it really is at.
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
Very very carefully try and make a mark on your new pump in exactly the same location as your old pump before you install it. Then line it up with the mark on the timing cover when you install it. Not an exact process but should get you close enough to drive it. You'll need to get it timed eventually. Look for smoke from the exhaust. If it's gray your timimg is retarded. If the rattle at idle is crazy loud your too advanced.
well guys my new pump is on and all is well, I forgot to update this, thanks for all your help, only problem I have is I cant get the FIPL within spec and the transmission shifts funny now, not sure if I should replace the sensor or not
Dirtleg
Full Access Member
Keep fooling with the FIPL. You'll get it right eventually. Glad the pump's working for you.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The E4OD tps switch needs to be set with a digital voltmeter. Set it to 1.2 volts at idle ...Motor off position. Don't go higher than 1.2 volts nor lower than .96... The lower the volts the softer the shifts. The switches only last around 50,000 to 75,000 miles so now is a good time to replace it. They aren't costly. Nappa around $30.00... Ford... Around $75.00 and up....
