IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I would guess so too. You have a lot more cable between the driver's side battery and the starter compared to the passenger's side.
Voltage regulator?
- Thread starter Selahdoor
- Start date
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
Something is amiss with the voltage regulator. The alternator is putting out too much. And it's the voltage regulator that's telling the alternator to do it.
To do this, the voltage regulator sets the magnetic field strength in the alternator by controlling the current through the rotor. It may be stuck "full on" as a consequence of a failed-shorted output transistor in the regulator.
My take so far is that your alternator is fine, but its controller is on the fritz. If this is the case, expect this overvoltage to get much worse when engine rpm goes up. Be very careful around the battery.
Are the batteries getting warm? I have noted in the past when I had faults that forced excess energy into a battery, not only did it start venting gases, it got warm as well. Those gases are explosive.
To do this, the voltage regulator sets the magnetic field strength in the alternator by controlling the current through the rotor. It may be stuck "full on" as a consequence of a failed-shorted output transistor in the regulator.
My take so far is that your alternator is fine, but its controller is on the fritz. If this is the case, expect this overvoltage to get much worse when engine rpm goes up. Be very careful around the battery.
Are the batteries getting warm? I have noted in the past when I had faults that forced excess energy into a battery, not only did it start venting gases, it got warm as well. Those gases are explosive.
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
I went back through this entire post and noted an earlier entry about an apparent lack of charge or parasitic drain.
Now, should your output current pass transistor fail shorted on your voltage regulator, it won't be able to turn off when you shut the engine off. It may be keeping your stator coil in the alternator turned ON full bore, constantly.
Draining your battery to do it.
Might wanna check for that possibility.
Now, should your output current pass transistor fail shorted on your voltage regulator, it won't be able to turn off when you shut the engine off. It may be keeping your stator coil in the alternator turned ON full bore, constantly.
Draining your battery to do it.
Might wanna check for that possibility.
The A terminal on the regulator is the one it uses to sense the voltage level of the truck's wiring. If the A wire is broken, it would cause the regulator to charge the battery too much, since A would have a very low or no voltage on it.
I have the alternator out, now. Gonna bring it inside in a bit and research whether it is gen2 or gen 3.
Pretty sure it is 130. Only two holes.
Taking it to be tested, tomorrow.
Hoping all it is, is the regulator.
Pretty sure it is 130. Only two holes.
Taking it to be tested, tomorrow.
Hoping all it is, is the regulator.
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
It's gotta be the regulator, one way or another... Either it's bad or bad connection like Franklin above pointed out.
Should you open the field current drive to the alternator ( the electromagnet on the armature ), you should get nothing out of the stator coil...that's the DC electrical power output, taken from the diode assembly in the alternator ( internally, the alternator is three phase AC, and the diodes convert the AC to the DC you need for the trucks electrical system ).
No magnetic field, no output. The regulator, for one reason or another, is asking for all it can put out. Your video said it all. Way too much. A sick alternator could not do that, but a perfectly healthy one commanded to do this can and will.
I sure am glad to see you alive and kicking after your bout with the devil. I had a run in with something earlier this year, and I too thought it was my end.
Should you open the field current drive to the alternator ( the electromagnet on the armature ), you should get nothing out of the stator coil...that's the DC electrical power output, taken from the diode assembly in the alternator ( internally, the alternator is three phase AC, and the diodes convert the AC to the DC you need for the trucks electrical system ).
No magnetic field, no output. The regulator, for one reason or another, is asking for all it can put out. Your video said it all. Way too much. A sick alternator could not do that, but a perfectly healthy one commanded to do this can and will.
I sure am glad to see you alive and kicking after your bout with the devil. I had a run in with something earlier this year, and I too thought it was my end.
Guys... In my research so far, I have seen a ton of regulators out there. All looking the same. And all seem to be completely interchangeable.
Meaning... Motorcraft voltage regulators. Made for the 2g-3g alternators, and doesn't even care about 95, or 130...
Am I correct? It certainly looks that way...
Meaning... Motorcraft voltage regulators. Made for the 2g-3g alternators, and doesn't even care about 95, or 130...
Am I correct? It certainly looks that way...
You have a 130, you have serp so its a 3g.
I THOUGHT it was a 130, because of the two holes instead of four. But apparently you can have a smaller case with two holes, and it's still the 95...
Here's a pic to help identify it for sure.
Here's a pic to help identify it for sure.
You must be registered for see images attach
Diesels only got 130s.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
If I'm right, the 3G were the only ones that had that style regulator on the back. The 2Gs had a totally different style of wiring.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That makes sense. Weren't the 1Gs something like 100 amps?
Ok, getting late. Wish me luck, I am going to put it back on, and TRY to do the 'engine running" tests on it.
Thanks to Franklin2 in another thread for complete instructions on that...
Thanks to Franklin2 in another thread for complete instructions on that...
Seems like the only thing constant around here is change.
When I got out there to reinstall, so I could test the ASI with the engine running...
Decided to take the regulator out and check out the brushes.
Yeah... I'd say we have a problem. They are almost gone.
Didn't even do the ASI test. Just put it back together. I'll take it to oreilleys tomorrow and have it tested just for kicks and grins. But I wonder if brushes being that worn, could cause the overcharge condition?
The rings could be badly worn as well, for all I know. But they feel like they are ok.
Thinking about just getting a cheap rebuild kit from ebay or amazon.
Discovered that the other alt I have, (On the old, now 'parts' truck...), is also a 3g 130. But it is the belt/pulley type. So the housing is different. But.... I'm pretty sure the regulator from that one will swap right over to this one. And if it comes down to it, if the insides of that one are better, I wouldn't be averse to cracking the cases, and swapping everything out...
Probably not going to be really back to work at this until thursday.
When I got out there to reinstall, so I could test the ASI with the engine running...
Decided to take the regulator out and check out the brushes.
Yeah... I'd say we have a problem. They are almost gone.
Didn't even do the ASI test. Just put it back together. I'll take it to oreilleys tomorrow and have it tested just for kicks and grins. But I wonder if brushes being that worn, could cause the overcharge condition?
You must be registered for see images attach
The rings could be badly worn as well, for all I know. But they feel like they are ok.
Thinking about just getting a cheap rebuild kit from ebay or amazon.
Discovered that the other alt I have, (On the old, now 'parts' truck...), is also a 3g 130. But it is the belt/pulley type. So the housing is different. But.... I'm pretty sure the regulator from that one will swap right over to this one. And if it comes down to it, if the insides of that one are better, I wouldn't be averse to cracking the cases, and swapping everything out...
Probably not going to be really back to work at this until thursday.
