Update on Hank - And it's not a good one. :-/

[nitroguy]

Hey guys,

Maybe you remember me. I'm the guy that just moved to Montana and before I left bought a really clean (looking) '93 IDIT that had brand new head gaskets on him. Brought it over the pass, and started smoking like a banshee. Took it in to the shop, then another, then another, then just had it sit in my yard while trying to figure out what the heck I could do with it. Took it back to the mechanic I liked best, and was figuring I'd just plan on spending some coin to have him bring it back to a good baseline working condition, then I could tinker on it from there fixing the little things.

Well, the mechanic called today, and it's bad news. A compression check on the rear two cylinders led to coolant shooting up through the Glow Plug holes. I'm no rocket scientist, but that's not good. Head gaskets were replaced right before I bought it from a reputable shop, so that leaves what: cracked heads or cavitation?

My two options, as I see it are this: New engine or New truck.

I'm leaning toward a new engine, because all the running gear on the truck is in top-notch condition. I fear that if I buy any other truck - even a (gasp!) little gas powered one, I'm just inheriting someone else's problems. But the idea of dropping $6k PLUS labor into a truck I paid just $4500 for, seems like a REALLY tough pill to swallow.

So, here's where I need your wisdom: what's a guy to do?! I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and work is easing up a bit, so theoretically a buddy and me could work for a weekend or two to replace an engine (or something) but time is a very precious commodity, exceeded only by money. Craigslist around here isn't really booming, and I'm new to the area so I'm knocking on all the doors I know to get references for junk yards or old farmers with trucks laying around.

Any suggestions?

Sorry if it seems like I'm whining, I think I'm just reeling from the loss of a new, but dear friend. :-(

 

[riotwarrior]

Well good to see you back, sounds to me like Cavitation

One option, is to refurb that engine and have it sleeved. It means a removal of engine by you...simple easy, but hard and difficult...

Simple cause it is just pulling parts and easy cause there is not much to it...difficult cause its UNKNOWN hard cause it's big!

Pulling this engine aint to much different that pulling a lawn mower or a car or a motor bike, remove stuff till you get it out, take pictures and label everything...JUST CAUSE it's bigger does not make it more intimidating, it's just bolts and stuff...We are here to help....

Once you get it pulled, then I'd suggest getting the heads checked thoroughly and a valve grind done, PORT N POLISH on yer time...do this first before valve grind..if your going to that is!

Invest in a 2000LB harbor freight engine stand. It will do you just fine!

Tear down the block rent/borrow/beg for special tools where needed. MIC the parts, inspect and then send the block out for a sleeve of the two cylinders or if $$ there all 8, add new pistons and rings and bearings, get it all home, start to reassemble and voila...done..ya sounds easy...but it's just labour

We are here to help and IMHO

REBUILD it!

Al

 

[Knuckledragger]

First, undo the high estimate for the engine. I rebuilt mine a couple years ago, including machine work and labor for $3500. You only need to tear the engine apart or find another used one, ranging from $250-$1000. If you have another vehicle, take yours apart and determine the actual problem. Then decide what to do. It may be cavitation, which is bad, but means only that you have to get another block or sleeve yours. Bad head, available. You won't have to replace everything, just the broken parts.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for coming back. Exactlly which two cylinders have coolant ot water in them. If its the back cylinder on each head... then I say the guy that installed head gaskets did a crappy job. We never see cavitation on two opposite bank cylinders happen at the same time. Now if two back cylinders on the same bank have coolant or water in them.. Then that there is a bad head gasket. Can't really be much else. At the very most expence buy a rebuilt short block. Have your heads rebuilt. Do the assembly yourself and save the money. Its tuff finding an engine that you can depend on no matter what part of this country you live in. I'm sure there is someone up there that has a farm truck sitting because something is wrong.. Determining whats wrong is the trick. Now if some guy installed an injection pump and could never get it to fire up I would tell you to buy that engine or complete truck... Usually owners remove the injection pump and cover with the gear still attached thinking its the easy way of doing this work... Nope.. Its the wrong way and its costly to figure it out later. We can help if thats an engine you find. Even a 6.9 engine will bolt directly into the 7.3 engine area.. Only the Van engines have differant parts bolted to them... All you do is remove those parts and bolt on your parts. Its the oil cooler and drivers side exhaust manifold.. Bout it...

 

[RLDSL]

Im inclined to think the block didnt get its head bolt holes cleaned out with a bottoming tap before teh new gaskets were popped in so they didnt get torqued down properly ( dirty holes gove a false high torque reading , causing you to stop torquing WAY too soon and can lead to leaks)
Id bet most shops are not going to take teh time to go through all that extra work, until theyve had one come back on them when they are charging off the flat rate book. It takes a good 45 minutes or more at full speed to clean out all of those holes
Another place that can give you a false bum engine , coolant in the cylinder problem , is if the valley pan gasket leaks and eitehr the heads are the open to the center type or they changed out the freeze plugs and didnt get them right m this will end up with cooland draining down the intake runners past the valves into the cylinder.

 

[stumiister]

Is it just burning coolant, or do you have coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant?
If it is just burning coolant then I would say a bad head gasket job.
But if you have oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil then you could be looking at a cracked head, bad head gasket, cavitation, or a bad oil cooler bundle.
I currently working a Detroit Series 60 that has the same problem, the head went to the machine and tested good so it is being rebuilt, so I'm thinking it was a bad head gasket job or the liners are wearing out at the counter bore on the block.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I'd pull the heads, and start inspecting. I'm with the majority here, thinking poor workmanship on the head gasket job.

 

[DragRag]

Simplest cheapest thing to do is locate a good used engine in it, and flop it in. You will easily be under $2000 doing that. I wouldn't even pull the heads from your existing engine. Pull it, keep the good parts, install the new/used engine, and your off and running. I employ the kiss method myself always.

 

[hce]

http://montana.craigslist.org/pts/3699420266.html