Turbo

[cozinsky]

Hi everyone,
I have a 1992 F250 4x4 with a NA 7.3 IDI. I've owned the truck for 18 years, bought it as-is with a cavitated engine. I had the block bored and sleeved on all eight cylinders and completely rebuilt it. Its been mostly my work truck that I use to haul things and pull trailers so I've only put about 30,000 miles on it since. Its still running the original pump and injectors and runs beautiful with no smoke, starting issues or misfires. But, its always been pretty underpowered while pulling trailers. Plus I have to watch my temp gauge really closely when pulling a loaded trailer, especially going up hills because the temp will climb rapidly when working really hard. I just bought a 16' dump trailer which I plan on hauling some pretty heavy loads with, around 15K so that has me looking at turbos.
I know they come up on ebay fairly often but most are missing parts and I don't want to spend another $800-1000 to have a junk turbo rebuilt, so I'm considering a new Banks Sidewinder kit.

Is the payoff really worth the hefty $3,300+ price tag and do you think it will give me enough extra power for my needs? I love the truck but I desperately need more power and its still far less than what a newer truck would cost. What about my stock pump and injectors? The truck only has 130,000 original miles. I often add a quart of two stroke oil or ATF to a tank of fuel to help keep everything clean and lubricated and I haven't noticed any hints of a failing pump or bad injectors.
I've considered a 12 valve swap but this engine is barely even broken in and still runs strong otherwise.

 

[ComatoseLlama]

Night and day difference towing turbo vs NA.

On a trip back from alaska we had a 7.3NA f250 and my turbo f350 with a blown dual mass flywheel, and had to tow a classic gladiator on a uhaul trailer.

Even with the busted trans the turbo truck got over double the mileage and could actually make it up the colorado and kentucky hills. The f250 used probably a quarter tank per hour while towing

Also, 15k# is a lot for an f350
https://www.oilburners.net/posts/680317/

 

[cozinsky]

I should add this is basically a F350 since I swapped in the springs and axles from a '86 F350 4x4.

 

[dgr]

Contact @Thewespaul

He sells complete and ready to go Ford factory turbo kits and offers upgrades to them.

 

[Slicknik]

@cozinsky

CDD idi turbo kit , problem solved.....

Oh and turbos equal heat/higher egt’S sooooo keep it under 35 lbs,


..... good luck

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It's worth looking into an intercooler as well. That will help keep the EGTs down. I believe that Wes has some intercooler kits for sale too.

 

[cozinsky]

Thanks. I sent him a PM on his stuff and am waiting for a response.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It may take him a while, but he will get back to you. Everything that he does, he does himself so he's VERY busy.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Oh, by the way, welcome to the forum.

 

[frankenwrench]

Wes also has a website. Classic Diesel Designs. Also on Facebook. He has many stock items as well as stock rebuilds as well as upgrades from mild to wild. Fuel systems, turbo systems, and many other services as well. You should check out his website. Many of us are using his products already. Good guy and honest work that is really reputable

 

[Thewespaul]

Thanks to you all for the kind recommendations

 

[Jim993]

I have an '85 6.9 4x4 C6 with a Banks turbo kit that was installed in 2006. When the original engine died from unrelated reasons two years later, I put a reman 6.9 in and transferred the Banks to the new engine, now 14 years and 42,000 miles ago on the new engine.

Couldn't be more pleased with the Banks.

 

[Jim993]

Sorry, re reading your post, I did not address all your questions.

Yes, the turbo will substantially improve power and make towing easier. I would not be without it.

In my view, cavitation is an old wives tale. What actually happens is that because of high compression and combustion pressure, diesels are more subject to allowing a few carbon dioxide molecules past the head gasket from time to time. Carbon dioxide in water forms carbonic acid which makes the coolant acidic. It then eats head gaskets and oil coolers. Get Acustrip test strips and supplemental coolant additive to address: https://www.acustrip.com/cgi-bin/prodcat.cgi?pc=truck Heavy truck people routinely use this technology.

As far as coolant temperature rise working hard, if your engine is in good condition, it may be time for a new radiator. Radiators are consumables. With a turbo making more power, more heat will have to be dealt with via the radiator.

Generally around town and on the highway unloaded, the turbo will LOWER exhaust gas temperatures compared to non boosted because of the added air from the turbo.

A benefit included with the Banks kit are EGT, boost gauges. I am a gauge freak, I also have vacuum, trans temp and voltage, can't get to my ash tray.

Your stock injector pump will be fine if in good condition. If you install a turbo, part of the power increase comes from adjusting the stock injector pump to provide more fuel. The Banks kit comes with instructions to adjust your stock pump.

You should be using Stanadyne Diesel Fuel Additive, Performance Formula instead of the ATF or two stroke oil.

My '85 F250 4x4 is at a little over 264,000 miles-

 

[cozinsky]

I ordered an upgraded kit including the intercooler from Wes so I should be set.
This block was definitely a victim of cavitation. It was pushing engine oil into the cooling system. I don't remember which cylinder it was, but it was on the driver's side bank. I built a pressure tester and sealed the deck off, flipped the block over upside-down, filled the cylinders with water and applied air pressure. One of the cylinders had a clear, visible pinhole in it about right in the middle. I wasn't taking any chances so I sleeved all eight. I've been running SCA's and checking with test strips regularly ever since.
On the heating issue, I've heard and read other people complain about the 7.3 IDI running hot under load. Supposedly because the cylinder walls are thinner they aren't as efficient at transferring heat to the cooling system. I replaced the thermostat when I rebuilt the engine with one right from the Ford dealership and had the radiator cleaned out but its always been this way. Running on flat roads with no load it will run at 190-195 all day. But pulling a trailer up a hill it will quickly climb above 210. I've had it hit 230-240 a few times but I've never pushed it past that...I've slowed down and eased off until it dropped. I'm hoping with the turbo the heating issue won't be as bad since I won't have to work it as hard.

 

[Macrobb]

Sorry, re reading your post, I did not address all your questions.

Yes, the turbo will substantially improve power and make towing easier. I would not be without it.

In my view, cavitation is an old wives tale. What actually happens is that because of high compression and combustion pressure, diesels are more subject to allowing a few carbon dioxide molecules past the head gasket from time to time. Carbon dioxide in water forms carbonic acid which makes the coolant acidic. It then eats head gaskets and oil coolers. Get Acustrip test strips and supplemental coolant additive to address: https://www.acustrip.com/cgi-bin/prodcat.cgi?pc=truck Heavy truck people routinely use this technology.

Thought I'd show this little gem on Cavitation:

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Either way, proper coolant will really help. I'd personally go with an ELC coolant like Zerex G-05 or Zerex HD ELC; these seem to not eat the old seals.

As far as coolant temperature rise working hard, if your engine is in good condition, it may be time for a new radiator. Radiators are consumables. With a turbo making more power, more heat will have to be dealt with via the radiator.

Yes and no - For one thing, running a bit leaner will lower EGTs while maintaining the same power level. Also, more power available(without running rich) will allow you to go faster up hill, which does more for keeping coolant temps down than most anything else in my experience.

Generally around town and on the highway unloaded, the turbo will LOWER exhaust gas temperatures compared to non boosted because of the added air from the turbo.

This is actually true at WOT as well (at NA levels of fueling), and even adding more fuel, it's totally possible to add a whole load of HP and torque, while maintaining safe EGTs.

A benefit included with the Banks kit are EGT, boost gauges. I am a gauge freak, I also have vacuum, trans temp and voltage, can't get to my ash tray.

Your stock injector pump will be fine if in good condition. If you install a turbo, part of the power increase comes from adjusting the stock injector pump to provide more fuel. The Banks kit comes with instructions to adjust your stock pump.

With a stock pump, you can handle about ~15 PSI of boost, about ~80 extra wheel HP(or about 60% improvement). Basically matches to a Banks kit nicely. If you go for a bigger/better turbo like something from R&D or CDD... you'll end up wanting a bigger IP as well as an intercooler to make full use of it.

You should be using Stanadyne Diesel Fuel Additive, Performance Formula instead of the ATF or two stroke oil.

Not sure on that, really. Heard some good things about two-stroke oil mix and lubricity improvement.