Truck bed camper thoughts.
- Thread starter notenuftime
- Start date
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
If I were going to live in a pop-top, I would want it to be one of those Alaska campers. They are EXPENSIVE! so I don't have one. Right now I have an old Starcraft pop-top that needs a new roof. It's OK to stay in for a weekend.
notenuftime
Full Access Member
Ya definitely don't want pop-up.
Saw some nice lance campers for 6000-8000. But that's getting expensive for me, unfortunately.
Saw some nice lance campers for 6000-8000. But that's getting expensive for me, unfortunately.
rubberfish
Registered User
I'm ok with that.
notenuftime. One thing I learned with my slide-in is you don't need to or want to
crank down the anchors like you might want to. I ended up buying some cool
turnbuckles that had a spring incorporated into them. The ride was way better
and absolutely no chance of pulling the anchor out of the camper body.
notenuftime
Full Access Member
So the spring gave them flex?I'm ok with that.
notenuftime. One thing I learned with my slide-in is you don't need to or want to
crank down the anchors like you might want to. I ended up buying some cool
turnbuckles that had a spring incorporated into them. The ride was way better
and absolutely no chance of pulling the anchor out of the camper body.
Where you get those?
rubberfish
Registered User
This is not where I got them. This link is for reference only.
I picked them up locally long before the internet was invented.
https://www.amazon.ca/Happijac-1829...ocphy=9001492&hvtargid=pla-568730812733&psc=1
I picked them up locally long before the internet was invented.
https://www.amazon.ca/Happijac-1829...ocphy=9001492&hvtargid=pla-568730812733&psc=1
Isaac Ristow
Full Access Member
I had a slide in I bought for $500 I used for camping and mud bogs etc. Truck was na didnt really notice it much. It was a 8ft no bathroom or shower. I never lived in it but my buddy did for a few weeks. Had a window ac I put in that would cool it to 60 degrees on a 90 degree day in the shade and about 68 to 70 in the direct sun. furnace was propane and did not require electric to operate worked great as well. fridge was 120v or propane. A single 20# propane tank was in a cabinet and lasted well over a year for me. It tied down to similar brackets in the steak pockets with turn buckles held it in solid. Had 3 jacks two on one side and one centered on the other I could load and unload myself in 15 minuets or less. I now upgraded to a school bus I paid 1700 for (2004 international with allison 2000 and 7.3 t444e) then fitted it with a diesel generator, a inverter, a 55 gallon fresh water tank, a sink and shower and 120v hot water heater, no grey water tanks it simply drains on the ground. No toilet. I have a mini fridge I power with the inverter or shore power. I have 2 bunk beds and a couch. I have a roof top ac for a rv on it. Its titled as a motorhome too. I have a total of about 4000 into it. I could definitely live in it and drive it anywhere. Just my input
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nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
RVs leak. Wood framed RVs leak and rot. You might want to look for an RV in the desert, where the leaks don't matter so much.
A one piece roof is the only hope for stopping the leaks. I put a rubber membrane cover over the roof of one of my pop-tops. It worked, but it's so heavy it's a lot harder to get the top up. My wife can't easily do it anymore.
A non-pop-top would handle the rubber roof much more gracefully, and it would be worth adding to whatever you get.
A one piece roof is the only hope for stopping the leaks. I put a rubber membrane cover over the roof of one of my pop-tops. It worked, but it's so heavy it's a lot harder to get the top up. My wife can't easily do it anymore.
A non-pop-top would handle the rubber roof much more gracefully, and it would be worth adding to whatever you get.
Naz4x4
Registered User
I wouldn't worry too much about the truck side of the mounting situation, there are plenty of options and you'll figure something out. Just bring some heavy straps along in case the PO's system doesn't work for you. The mounts on the camper however look pretty dodgy to me as does the wood they are screwed into.
notenuftime
Full Access Member
This had me concerned also.
Can't know for sure till I actually drive down and look
You can get frame camper mounts still for old fords from TorkLift. They are several hundred dollars for each set, front and rear. They bolt to the frame under the bed and stick out slightly for the turnbuckles to reach. They are expensive but considered the best long term slide in mounting solution. It puts the stress on the truck frame instead of on the top rail of the truck bed.
You can use the cheap (~$100 full set) truck bed rail "pocket" brackets if your truck is old enough that it has thick steel still. They might bend, scratch or otherwise mar the bed rail though, if that concerns you.
Check all your truck bed mounting bolts ahead of time too. One of mine lost it's nut somehow. It wasn't a broken bolt, the nut just worked loose from vibrations I guess. Or Ford forgot one back in 1987.
You won't know unless you try lifting the bolt from the top side with a magnet or something. I found out mine was missing a nut from a small shop vac catching the bolt head and lifting it out an inch then dropping it back when I ran the hose end across it.
You can use the cheap (~$100 full set) truck bed rail "pocket" brackets if your truck is old enough that it has thick steel still. They might bend, scratch or otherwise mar the bed rail though, if that concerns you.
Check all your truck bed mounting bolts ahead of time too. One of mine lost it's nut somehow. It wasn't a broken bolt, the nut just worked loose from vibrations I guess. Or Ford forgot one back in 1987.
You won't know unless you try lifting the bolt from the top side with a magnet or something. I found out mine was missing a nut from a small shop vac catching the bolt head and lifting it out an inch then dropping it back when I ran the hose end across it.
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Naz4x4
Registered User
Like Cubey said it's definitely worth checking the bed mounting bolts but otherwise I think mounting to the bed/rails is fine. No doubt frame mounts are stronger but the tie downs on the camper side are going to give first anyway. Mine's an 84 and i'm not sure when they started thinning out the steel on the beds. FWIW I use those metal "ears" that mount to the front of the bed for the front and some Brophy bed rail mounts (not the stake type) for the rear. With these when the camper pulls up on the mount the force is transferred to the inside wall of the bed which flexes and acts as a spring. Works okay for me anyway.
notenuftime
Full Access Member
Sounds good ill be sure to check the bed bolts.
gandalf
Senior Member
I think I posted earlier in this thread that I would use othing less than TorkLift tie-downs. I used the stake body tie-downs to get the camper home when I bought it, but only that one time. They are the least secure method, IMHO. I simply don't trust them. I then used Happi-Jack tiedowns (I think that's the company name) for a number of years. They attach to mounts bolted to the bed sheet metal. See a picture below for the rear mount. The problem there was that they relied on the strength of the sheet metal. Over the years that sheet metal has become thinner and thinner. At this point in time, again IMHO, the bed sheet metal no longer has the strength to adequately secure the camper. I went next to TorkLift frame mounted tie-downs. They are by far the best, relying on the strength of the frame. The only downside of the TorkLift is that they transfer the weak point to the camper itself, to the eyebolt they attach to.
That is where I had trouble with my old camper. Lance built it light, though the entire finished product was heavy. The wood frame was light weight, light duty. The frame rail where the eyebolt mounts is a 3x1 (2.5x3/4 true), mounted on edge. That meant that Lance drilled a hole for that eyebolt vertically, a 2.5 inch hole through a 3.4 inch wide piece of wood. They drilled a 3/8 inch hole in a 3/4 ince piece of wood, taking away half the thickness of the wood. That was the weak point. That was where my camper's frame rail broke. Again, see the picture below. Now understand, the frame rail was not in good shape anyway.
Even given that the eyebolt mounting on my camper was a very poor design, I'd happily pay any extra for the TorkLift mounting system. Other campers may very well have a better eyebolt mounting.
That is where I had trouble with my old camper. Lance built it light, though the entire finished product was heavy. The wood frame was light weight, light duty. The frame rail where the eyebolt mounts is a 3x1 (2.5x3/4 true), mounted on edge. That meant that Lance drilled a hole for that eyebolt vertically, a 2.5 inch hole through a 3.4 inch wide piece of wood. They drilled a 3/8 inch hole in a 3/4 ince piece of wood, taking away half the thickness of the wood. That was the weak point. That was where my camper's frame rail broke. Again, see the picture below. Now understand, the frame rail was not in good shape anyway.
Even given that the eyebolt mounting on my camper was a very poor design, I'd happily pay any extra for the TorkLift mounting system. Other campers may very well have a better eyebolt mounting.
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I am sorry t9 hear of your plight its a sad time when one has to do as you are.
What about a small 5th wheel camper trailer or tongue tow camper trailer? This way the weight wont always have to be on yer rig.
Just thinking there are trailers like 20' that essentially double your floor space and living area.
It is just a suggestion
Good luck
What about a small 5th wheel camper trailer or tongue tow camper trailer? This way the weight wont always have to be on yer rig.
Just thinking there are trailers like 20' that essentially double your floor space and living area.
It is just a suggestion
Good luck
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