traction Bars

[dyoung14]

Why are they bad for off road?

 

[Diesel_brad]

They do not allow the axle to move as much. It is "almost" like a sway bar in a way

 

[Agnem]

I think a lot of roads in PA would constitute an "off road" situation in most other states.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

I think a lot of roads in PA would constitute an "off road" situation in most other states.

that's why i don't understand the fart runners lowered on 20 inch wheels....

-Jon

 

[smokin69]

It's all about how the arms are design and attatch. A LOT of Bronco guys run traction bars off road and never have a problem. The key is setting it up to be the right length and angle, and using a shackle in the front and having two fixed points in the rear, the arm is almost a really long A-frame, like radius arm from a 70's or 2005-up Ford SuperDuty. Like this-http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15090/50318

 

[fx4wannabe]

Length is key. I know a guy that builds custom 4 links and stuff and was going to have him build some bars for my 4 door. In order to get full suspension movement I think he figured they needed to be 8' something long. He said the mount needed to be right under the post in between the doors. Make them too short and forget about flexing. Still going to have them made one day but its going to be costly to have them done and reinforced to not fold up like a spagetti noodle.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Traction bars would work great for me then, as even now I have more frame flex than suspension flex. Not to mention my idea of offroading is a nice and wide and flat dirt road So yah, I still wanna see pics of them tractor-links traction bars...

 

[Ironman03R]

This is what I have. Never had a problem with bending them and they do what theyre supposed to.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Length is key. I know a guy that builds custom 4 links and stuff and was going to have him build some bars for my 4 door. In order to get full suspension movement I think he figured they needed to be 8' something long. He said the mount needed to be right under the post in between the doors. Make them too short and forget about flexing. Still going to have them made one day but its going to be costly to have them done and reinforced to not fold up like a spagetti noodle.

Yes. and No. Length is kinda important. The angle they are on is more important. They need to be parallel to the driveshaft for proper movement without binding

 

[93turbo_animal]

Yes. and No. Length is kinda important. The angle they are on is more important. They need to be parallel to the driveshaft for proper movement without binding

well the longer you make them the more the angle is gonna change but both are pointless in eliminating binding Thats why the drive shaft has a slipjoint in it so it can move with the axle so unless your traction bars have this then they are binding. Now the thing is most of these heavy duty stock sprung trucks probably don't move enough to really notice

 

[OB_WAN]

well the longer you make them the more the angle is gonna change but both are pointless in eliminating binding Thats why the drive shaft has a slipjoint in it so it can move with the axle so unless your traction bars have this then they are binding. Now the thing is most of these heavy duty stock sprung trucks probably don't move enough to really notice

the purpose of the shackle at the anchor point acts as a slip-joint. This has been done a LOT on vehicles that are severely abused and articulated offroad. Using a fixed point at the frame may cause binding and limit articulation unless done correctly.

I saw the pictures of the ones created with fixed points @ the frame. as long as the angles and anchor points match the front spring hanger, it's not a big deal if you're not doing a lot of 4-low heavy torque but it will cause the axle to want to push back or forward on the springs which would add stress to the spring centering pins, ubolts, and springs. May not be a big deal in 2-high/4-high and mild 4-low.

 

[65sixbanger]

This is what I have. Never had a problem with bending them and they do what theyre supposed to.

That is very similar to my setup, although I used bigger links from a tractor.

I ran out of metal, so I have only one for right now on the axle side. I was testing these out yesterday and I kinda tweaked the axle bracket on the axle side. Welds held but the metal started to twist,

But..... They worked awesome!!! NO MORE WHEEL HOP!!!
just to try it out I dumped the clutch in first and left two black marks on the pavement about 15 feet long. Truck didnt even feel like hopping. Also, doesnt shake when backing up a hill or starting off on a big incline. I am going to add some metal to those axle straps today hopefully.

 

[BIG DAVE]

That is very similar to my setup, although I used bigger links from a tractor.

I ran out of metal, so I have only one for right now on the axle side. I was testing these out yesterday and I kinda tweaked the axle bracket on the axle side. Welds held but the metal started to twist,

But..... They worked awesome!!! NO MORE WHEEL HOP!!!
just to try it out I dumped the clutch in first and left two black marks on the pavement about 15 feet long. Truck didnt even feel like hopping. Also, doesnt shake when backing up a hill or starting off on a big incline. I am going to add some metal to those axle straps today hopefully.

I'm glad its working for you, and I'm sorry i didn't get those pics to you! I've been busy busy busy lol. They made a big differents on my red truck and ill always run them on my rigs

 

[dyoung14]

I have had very serious wheel hop at times when i would do some wicked burn outs with the old engine, 2nd gear 4200 rpm makes for a damn nice smoke show

 

[6.9poweredscout]

before the traction bars as i let up on the clutch you could literally feel the rear turn and then the truck would move,imagine with the 37's! a burnout would have hop and not much else. now with the traction bars i let off the clutch in second and whack it down and it skates sideways like its on ice smooth as silk!

-Jon