Track bar with RSK?

[IDIoit]

so im down to a few final suspension details to work out.

one of them being my track bar. 87 F350 D-60

since ive done a reverse shackle, im reading that i do not need a track bar.

would it be beneficial or detrimental to re-install it?

maybe build another one?

one that goes from the driverside frame rail to the passenger side spring perch?

 

[tbrumm]

Brian, I recall the "track bar with RSK" question being discussed a while back, and I thought I had that thread saved in my subscriptions. I'll be darned if I can find it though. From what I recall @6.9poweredscout (Jon) installed a D60 in his 2WD F350 and did a RSK too. He asked the questions about the track bar at that time. I always figured you could eliminate it with an RSK, because the track bar only came about after the D60 was installed in the F350 starting in 1986, and that was due to the shackles being in the front and not in the rear as with the 1978-79 D60 trucks, which had no track bar. But if I remember right, the Superduty's, even with shackles in the rear (99-04 or before Ford switched to radius arms and coils) retained a smaller track bar. I seem to recall @towcat mentioning that a track bar may still be needed even with the RSK. I am sure somebody will be along with first hand knowledge soon.

 

[towcat]

ford bean counters gave the OK for the track bar in all solid front axle trucks with leaf springs. if they can cut costs, they would have certainly eliminated it. i've experienced death wobble due to bad track bar bushings, so that is reason enough for me to make sure the bushings are always in good shape.

 

[riotwarrior]

 

[crash-harris]

Don't sweat it until you get it rolling. It really just depends on how soft your springs and eyelet bushing health. I have Sky Manufacturing drop bracket for the factory panhard if you decide you need to reinstall it. If I would ever need one I'll build a full length one and a mount for the driver's frame rail with a Ballistic Fab tower welded on the axle tube. I've read that I shouldn't need one with V code leaf springs though.

 

[IDIoit]

im a fan of overkill.
and once this truck is done, i do not want to have to modify it.
looks like im putting one in....

no over the counter metal working will never be seen on my rig.
if its not stock, its modified by me.
or one of my closest friends (he's building me a rear bumper)

 

[dunk]

Indeed it depends on general suspension/bushing firmness and caster. Most rear shackle trucks before 1980 across all manufacturers did not have a track bar in the front. Rear panhards came about for coil springs. Trucks after 97 are known for death wobble even entirely stock. Either do it now or see if it's an issue. Pirate is probably a good place for this type of talk though it would be refreshing to see more scientific talk about suspension here.

 

[crash-harris]

You're running factory crossover steering linkage aren't you? What was your amount of lift? You can run a full length bar, but you'll have to reinforce the frame side mount and probably trim the engine crossmember (if you haven't modified it already, I can't recall).

 

[IDIoit]

factory steering, no lift,
im thinking on building a perch from the frame to the cross member on the driverside.
then making a new shock perch with provisions to accept the other side.

something along the lines of this....
just a little more in depth.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-20224K-J-Bar-Panhard-Bar-3-1-2-Inch-Bend,23533.html

 

[dansvan]

Yes you need one. Steering forces from the steering box try and push the axle away from or pull it towards the box. This movement tries to twist the leaf springs and bushings. The track bar keeps the axle centered and resists this movement. It also helps control bumpsteer. It needs to be on the same plane as the drag link. Older Trucks with steering that ran front to back didn't have these loads and didn't need one.

 

[dunk]

Thanks, that's the most reasonable explanation I've heard. I had not made the connection regarding steering box and linkage style, but indeed most earlier trucks I've worked on have a short drag link moving forward/backward working the drivers side knuckle rather than across to the tie rod or passenger knuckle.

 

[Black dawg]

Like said, the track bar is there because of the side to side (crossover style) draglink.

 

[cheap bronco]

I would say go for it. I converted my 88 bronco to d60 leaf front rear shackle and 10.25 sterling rear due to 7.3 idi drop in. My experience is that when I go through a intersection at about 40 mph and there are the drainage channels as you enter and exit the intersection, when I hit those my front end seems to bounce but in such a way where it creates not just a up and down bounce but also a side to side bounce at the same time. I don't have a track bar installed and want to fabricate one and install it, but my confusion is length of bar. Do we need to take in consideration the axle travel up and down? And account for the axle pull to one side or the other when Axle travels? Sorry if I didn't contribute much to your question. I say fabricate and install one if you know how. Please share on the measurements.

 

[IDIoit]

i do have the know how, however im in testie deep into this truck and would like to get it finished sometime this millennia.

i was going to take some johnny joints and some 1.5" DOM tubing and bend it over the diff.

however looking at it tonight, my stock one still lines up.

im gonna keep the stock one.

one day when and if i lift it, ill change it..

is this considered cutting corners?

not something i wanna do right before paint lol

 

[crash-harris]

factory steering, no lift,
im thinking on building a perch from the frame to the cross member on the driverside.
then making a new shock perch with provisions to accept the other side.

something along the lines of this....
just a little more in depth.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-20224K-J-Bar-Panhard-Bar-3-1-2-Inch-Bend,23533.html

Check out Fullsizebronco.com in the Solid Axle Swap section. A lot of guys have done it and have great ideas that you can compare and get a better idea from. A curved panhard will be the only way you're going to get a full length one under a truck with no lift. Factory D60 front trucks have a short panhard that runs from the bottom of the engine crossmember to a welded (stamped steel) bracket on the bottom of the passengers side axle tube. I'm not sure what the thinking was behind that, but a full width panhard will indeed need to be parallel to your draglink, else when the suspension cycles it'll push/pull your steering at the same time.

Edit: You replied first, but no, not citing corners of you're still roughly at the same ride height.