Towing heavy at 20MPH

[jay22day]

As stated:

The GV will run at any speed, it's only recommended not to shift it below 25 MPH.

Starting to wonder if you really have a GV in your truck? GV uses hydraulic pressure to engage the clutch. Has to be going a certain speed to engage (even with power to the solenoid). Seems like GV says 25 mph.

Whats stopping you from winding to 25 before giving it "first over" and settling back down to 20mph? with a more comfortable engine load/speed/EGT's/and available power. Furthermore you could increase you speed 5mph, thats an realy...realy obvious option as well.....

Starting to wonder if you really have a GV in your truck?

Im starting to wonder if you really think before you type?

Black dawg: You dont have to be an A$$ just because you dont agree with an oppinion.

 

[Black dawg]

The fact is, the GV wont run at ANY speed. Go ask ANYBODY who actually uses one. Your fancy eclectronic box with the GV wont let the unit be engaged under a certain speed (25 comes to mind). Even if you turn it on at 60, the box will turn it back off under that preset speed. The thing needs hydraulic pressure, for good engagement.

 

[Black dawg]

Not disagreeing with anybodys opinion, but facts are facts, you should really do some reading, maybe go try your GV, and learn something before talking like you already know it.

Go back to post 24 and 25, this is where it became obvious you have little to no experiance with the GV.

 

[jay22day]

The fact is, the GV wont run at ANY speed. Go ask ANYBODY who actually uses one. Your fancy eclectronic box with the GV wont let the unit be engaged under a certain speed (25 comes to mind). Even if you turn it on at 60, the box will turn it back off under that preset speed. The thing needs hydraulic pressure, for good engagement.

Whats stopping you from winding to 25 before giving it "first over" and settling back down to 20mph? with a more comfortable engine load/speed/EGT's/and available power. Furthermore you could increase you speed 5mph, thats a realy...realy obvious option as well.....

Of course you didnt even confront the option highlighted in red at all because of how reasonable it is and your lack of reasonable debate. what is the need to stay at 20mph instead of 25-30? the difference in minimal.

the shifting speed is relative to rear ratio and tires size therefore its subject to change, witch is why you get reviews varying from 15mph-25mph

Furthermore let me give you a GV lesson, Even though im probably full of $h!t and dont even own a unit (according to you, who most likely, is ACTUALLY the one whom doesnt own a GVunit...)

Right off the GV website:

When you are standing still with 1st gear selected and the Gear Vendors dash-switch in the manual mode hit our button so that the red light is showing - that is AutoLaunch. As you speed up the electronics will initiate our solenoid on the overdrive at about 20mph and then relative to your rear ratio and tire size the Gear Vendors hydraulic pump will produce the 1st-over shift automatically at the same driveshaft speed every time.

.....


Apparently your "FACT" is wrong, next time instead of bashing, and basing your argument on speculative reviews, maybe you should read the company's available information, you know like those of us who actually own a GV.

thanks for the attempt.


theirs no reason that when you have the proper gear you cant do 26mph instead of 20mhp anyhow...

 

[jay22day]

Not disagreeing with anybodys opinion, but facts are facts, you should really do some reading, maybe go try your GV, and learn something before talking like you already know it.

Yeah there ya go...sit thier uneducated and tell those that no what they are talking about they need to do the reading

as stated above your clearly speculative "FACTS" are wrong read the company's literature

furthermore theirs no reason you cant drive 26,7,8,9+ mph.... wit the gv you now have the proper gearing to do so......duuuuh

 

[Black dawg]

The reason I didnt comment on using the GV over 25, is because there is no reason that you cant, that is how it was intended to be used. It is when you try to use it at too low of a speed, that you can hurt it. My gv will engage at under 10mph, but I cant imagine it has enough pressure to put any torque to it at that speed. Going by what gv says about use over "20 mph" in my experience is safe, and would not reccomend use any slower.


Sorry OP for the huge derail.

 

[Clb]

Polling the audience here:

Say a farmer wanted to pull a loaded 12,000lb grain wagon 20 miles at the brisk speed of 20MPH. That farmer has a 4x4 truck with manual front hubs and an E4OD. That farmer wants to pull this load in 4-low (essentially 2-low with hubs unlocked) with the hubs unlocked to use all 4 gears in his transmission, actually lockup the converter on the trip, have engine braking, and be able to takeoff from a stop with less complaining from the transmission and truck in general.

This farmer already uses "2-low" around the yard to move things etc, just never had a reason (or thought/idea) to take to the road with it.

Any problem with running an E4OD in overdrive with transfer case in low?

Any issues with driving a fair distance in low?

Curious farmers are wanting to know

Remember the ?
Of course we could go off topic and start a doubler highjack.

 

[jay22day]

Remember the ?
Of course we could go off topic and start a doubler highjack.

as stated it abuses the rear drive shaft and u joints when running in 2wheel low as all the stress is put on the rear drive shaft and axle with gear that was designed to be distributed to the front aswell.

My most logical solution was as stated, GVover/under in 2wd using 1st over. When decelerating deactivate the over (as you shouldn't engine break with GV activated) plus you'll want the smaller first for engine braking for obvious reasons anyhow.


Even My old '53 willys Cj3 has a pin to stop you from trying to use 2wd/Low. They didnt do that jsut to be a pain in the owners ass although i plan to remove the pin, BUT i dont tow with that little tractor

 

[jay22day]

Go ask ANYBODY who actually uses one. Your fancy eclectronic box with the GV wont let the unit be engaged under a certain speed (25 comes to mind).

so first, according to YOU: it cant engage under 25 according to ANYBODY that has one.

My gv will engage at under 10mph,

Now, a post later: According to you it can engage as low as ten mph


Black dawg your just a wealth of contradicting speculation

 

[Black dawg]

Yes, MY gv will engage at lower speeds, (but dont use it at that speed because of the huge delay anyway)as I dont use the troublesome electronic control box. I could really care less to argue with you man, but dont want people to think that they can use the GV at speeds lower than what GV says, or reverse. These things are expensive, and alot more fragil than GV makes them out to be. So be careful with yours, they are Tough to find used and GV can be difficult to get parts from.

 

[jay22day]

according to GV it WILL engage at 20 mph, the torq multiplication of first over is the most effective gear for torq gains.

 

[Black dawg]

correct, but I dont like using it that slow, because of the huge delay in engagement, and rarely tow that slow anyway.

 

[towcat]

here my take on all this.
Untill you have owned and used a GV or whatever other piece of equipment, you are only dealing with the theoretical. Arguing over a "theory" is complete and utter nonsense. But if you insist on doing so, have at it. It's a free country.
What makes it less than ideal to engage a GV under 45mph needs to be experienced firsthand.
Big hint.......much has to do with the pressure put out by the piston pump in the GV. That will determine you will either slip like a son of a gun or engage so firmly that it wants to rip you head off. Age and wear on a GV will have a significant effect on how it engages too.
I don't like engaging in debates of theory. That's what is all over the internet. Put your money where you mouth is, and try out the goods. Report back your findings.
simple
done.

 

[79jasper]

many many cheaper (and probably not very effective) ways... but NO better than what the GV can do for your gearing, mpg, engine/drive-line-stress, transmission temperature, your EGT's, etc

thats why you see (usually 3 speed) AUX trans on many semi applications (even thou they usually already have 7+ speed manuals)

Wrong, wrong, and wrong.
Where do you get these "facts" you spew out?

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[PwrSmoke]

I'll try to get this back on topic.

Insofar as the original topic goes, i.e. "towing heavy at 20 mph" all this GV brouhaha is moot. The truck did fine without it. I tow as much or more as the OP twice a year and have every year since 2003. Once towed as much as 31 tons with my IDI. All without a GV or any other underdrive. Once you've done it, you realize getting moving and holding 25 mph (the legal limit for agricultural equipment with the SMV placard) isn't the big deal, it's getting stopped. The bigger wagons I have used, certainly in the 31 ton deal, had brakes. None of the three wagons I currently own have brakes so I am a LOT more careful. I don't need 4wd to get a 250 bushel wagon (approximately 15,000 lbs) to get moving (except in the field sometimes, but not on pavement) but it helps to get stopped. Remember my post above... a grain wagon is a wagon, not a trailer. It imparts no tongue weight on the truck to add to rear traction. That can hurt you getting moving but it's scary how it can hurt you getting stopped. The back tires will lock up (last time I checked my IDI had no ABS) and the wagon can push you sideways. Ask me how I know. One cure I discovered was to add tractor weights, so I sometimes put up to 1000 lbs worth of IH suitcase weights into the bed, right behind the axle to multiply the leverage. Helps a LOT. The other thing is to use 4-wheel hi. With the drivetrain locked front and rear, the front brakes, which have most of the weight, keeps the rear tires from locking up because when the front and rear axles are connected, they can't operate at different speeds. Often, 4 wheel hi is enough for the smaller wagons (150 and 120 bu, 9,000 and 7,200 respectively) to be safe. But with the bigger wagon, I almost always use the weights, or if I tow two wagons (rarely... too risky with no brakes on a "wagon train").

Anyway, to quote The Bard, all the GV guff is"much ado over nothing." Truck doesn't need it.