Tire chains or off-road tires for occasional mud

ComatoseLlama

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
236
Reaction score
159
Location
MI
Ummmm I have several sets of peerless v bar multicam chains and at 40 mph they like to come off even with all 4 cams pulled tight and a set of bungy tensioners on them lol they pull tight enough they indent the tread of the tire
I’d never go over 10-15 with them, I’m not off-roading the truck, just worried about nasty roads leading up to BLM land / forest roads for camping.

I’ve also been looking at ”truck claws”, or a diy version made of C channel and ratchet straps. Not too much info on these though, but the idea makes sense. Probably not effective with open diffs though.
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach
 

nelstomlinson

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Posts
1,118
Reaction score
726
Location
Delta Junction AK
Ratchet straps wouldn't fit through many wheels.
They wouldn't work on the stock wheels, but I do have one set of aftermarket wheels they would work with, I think. I'm interested mostly because I have a few old ratchet straps that I should really throw away. This would give me an excuse to hoard them.
 

Clb

Another old truck
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Posts
5,755
Reaction score
2,235
Location
nannyfornia
These are 8k winch trucks...
Left is the warn quoted' albeit a badazz little guy it is over worked on a full size, if you use the "double the weight formula" not to mention the " sticktion factor"
One of my buddies has one on a full tilt fj40 and it is just enough.
I would start at 10k but a 9k will due for occasional work, there is a reason you can buy a 14000 # rating.
Look at line speed and line rating per wrap ratings.
Good tires and lockers for the win...

You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

DaveBen

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2010
Posts
1,928
Reaction score
645
Location
Ukiah, Ca
I have been Jeeping since 1975 and I find that using a winch that has a rating or 2 times the weight of the stuck vehicle is about right. There are many factors that go into this, like the grade you are pulling out of. You will find carrying a snatch block and chains and other items will keep everyone happy. Practice makes near perfect.
 

Clb

Another old truck
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Posts
5,755
Reaction score
2,235
Location
nannyfornia
As not needing the winch is perfect:cheers:
And having the right gear makes a bad situation better!

You must be registered for see images attach

rolled this outta a 15' deep creekbed to the left of the tree by wrapping the bull rope like a winch drum around the log.
 
Last edited:

Oledirtypearl86

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2018
Posts
1,673
Reaction score
949
Location
Whitehall MT
Lol next time I get the ole dirty pearl stuck I'm taking pics lol tires help the last timee I got it stuck I buryed it to the mirrors in n snow it took 2 hrs shoveling and chains also cutting a road through the trees to get it out
 

foresterdj

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Posts
132
Reaction score
8
Location
Bemidji, MN
Mud better have a bottom, or nothing you do will help. That said, chains are a fantastic traction aid and putting a set on should not take more than about 10 minutes. Swapping to already chained up spares, are you kidding me. Have been a Forester for 38 years and have certainly logged thousands of miles chained up, sometimes putting them on and off multiple times a day as travels switched from blacktop to woods road and Visa versa.

Chains should hook into 3rd link on new tires, 4th on worn down tires.

Be sure not twisted through themselves.

Drape over tire with open hook to inside. Tuck first cross link down against tire.

Drive ahead so a couple links come out.

Hook inside hook FIRST on the end link, then into desired 3rd or 4th link. This traps the extra links so they do not fling around and damage something.

Hook outside FIRST in the desired 3rd or 4th link THEN slip the end link on. Fold latch over and secure with the latch link. If you cannot get desired link, hook tight as you can, drive a short ways and retighten.

Chains must be tight to stay on. Tight enough you need your Leatherman to help lever the latch over.

Run tight they will not come off, no bungie needed.

Sized as described gives enough slack that you can hook them at least in end link if you get stuck before putting them on. Just be sure to tighten once free.

Cam lock chains are stupid. When pulling digging your way the chains will grab and release tension and the sudden release will let one or more of the cams flip to the loose position. Then you have a loose chain and a loose chain will come off.
 

nelstomlinson

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Posts
1,118
Reaction score
726
Location
Delta Junction AK
Yeah, forester, switching to chained up spares wasn't a great way to go. It works, and when I was young and foolish, it seemed like a good idea for a while.

As far as having a bottom, my rule of thumb was always that if it didn't have ruts showing, it was going to be too deep or too soft or both.
 

ComatoseLlama

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2019
Posts
236
Reaction score
159
Location
MI
This s
Mud better have a bottom, or nothing you do will help. That said, chains are a fantastic traction aid and putting a set on should not take more than about 10 minutes. Swapping to already chained up spares, are you kidding me. Have been a Forester for 38 years and have certainly logged thousands of miles chained up, sometimes putting them on and off multiple times a day as travels switched from blacktop to woods road and Visa versa.

Chains should hook into 3rd link on new tires, 4th on worn down tires.

Be sure not twisted through themselves.

Drape over tire with open hook to inside. Tuck first cross link down against tire.

Drive ahead so a couple links come out.

Hook inside hook FIRST on the end link, then into desired 3rd or 4th link. This traps the extra links so they do not fling around and damage something.

Hook outside FIRST in the desired 3rd or 4th link THEN slip the end link on. Fold latch over and secure with the latch link. If you cannot get desired link, hook tight as you can, drive a short ways and retighten.

Chains must be tight to stay on. Tight enough you need your Leatherman to help lever the latch over.

Run tight they will not come off, no bungie needed.

Sized as described gives enough slack that you can hook them at least in end link if you get stuck before putting them on. Just be sure to tighten once free.

Cam lock chains are stupid. When pulling digging your way the chains will grab and release tension and the sudden release will let one or more of the cams flip to the loose position. Then you have a loose chain and a loose chain will come off.
I think this is the way for me, along with a winch it’s cost effective and should get me out of nearly any situation with enough shoveling

thanks for the tip on the cams !
 

Oledirtypearl86

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2018
Posts
1,673
Reaction score
949
Location
Whitehall MT
I’d never go over 10-15 with them, I’m not off-roading the truck, just worried about nasty roads leading up to BLM land / forest roads for camping.

I’ve also been looking at ”truck claws”, or a diy version made of C channel and ratchet straps. Not too much info on these though, but the idea makes sense. Probably not effective with open diffs though.
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach
Iv seen thease and they work pretty amazing I have never used them though
 

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,603
Reaction score
90
Location
Oregon
Yall carry Snatch blocks right?

Doubles the effectiveness of your winch, at the cost of time and cable length. Turn your 8k into a 16k really cheap.

A big part of our problem is weight to tire surface area causing sinking.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,280
Posts
1,129,761
Members
24,098
Latest member
William88
Top