Tie Rod

[Cincinnati Guy]

I'm not familiar with suspension work, but anyways my tie rods need replaced badly. I'm just not sure what I need, I need both side passenger and driver side, because where it bolts up together I have a lot of play in side to side movement of the tires. I was looking and it appears there are two different types depending on there build dates. Anyone want to give me any help on this? I was thinking about buying from Autozone...

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I don't really care much for the Autozone brands, I prefer something a bit more know, like TRW or Moog. McQuay-Norris is good too, if you can find them, "Made in the USA" is something you don't see too often anymore. If the joint between the two halves of the steering linkage is loose you will need a left inner tierod, outer tierod end will be good to replace as well, but you can reuse the adjuster sleeve just fine. If you have lots of play in the joint at the pitman arm, then you need right inner tierod, and again put in a new outer tierod end reuse the sleeve...

 

[fastass350]

Mcquay Norris is typically available at a Les Schwab, I'm not sure if you have them out your way though. Same brand is available at Schucks (checker, Oreiley's...blah blah blah) for about half the price Schwab typically gets. Do stick with a quality brand though, cheaps will only bite you down the road, as I'm sure you know.

Also look for things like your adjustment sleeve being loose, or your pitman arm nut being loose.

Chris

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I wouldn't call McQuay-Norris cheap, their stuff usually runs more than TRW, and up with the Moog and Dana parts. I use their ball joints in my truck, they look pretty darn beefy - very similar to those monster Danas I have in my Lincoln, only of course even bigger.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Moog is pretty much the way to go, unless you're into changing parts on a regular basis. These front ends are heavy and take alot of abuse.

I used to got the inexpesnive route but have learned my lesson.

If ya have the coin, may as well change em all out at the same time and be done with it.

 

[tractorman86]

If ya have the coin, may as well change em all out at the same time and be done with it.

i agree, i hate messin with the front end!

 

[LA350]

I redid my entire front this past summer w/ Moog w/ greaseable ends. I paid about 309.00 from O'Riley's. Kept having problems a few different times getting the correct parts but once I got them it all went together perfect. I used a pickle fork to separate, just go slow and they pop right off.

I tried to piece it together but it was all so worn out I parked it until I could afford to get it all done.

 

[fastass350]

I agree ^^^^^ But, instead of a pickle fork I like to use a larger hammer and beat ******* either the knuckle ends, or the pitman arm end, that typically drops them out easily, and doesn't tear the boot. Though, I save everything I can, so I try not to rip an old boot even if the rest is going to trash.
Also use never sieze on the threads.

Chris

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Ok ill go with good quality parts. When I jack up the front I can wiggle both front tires and its caused by movement where the tie rods bolt up in the middle, sorry I dont know what parts are called....Its where they join together...

 

[THECACKLER]

Yeah, two places to spend good money once and not look back is front end parts and front end parts. NAPA can be trusted. AZ can't. Their stuff has gone to the Chinese. So has a lot of MOOG stuff lately. Scarey. There are actually three different Front End Part sets for the '85 F250's depending if it's 2WD or 4WD For 2WD you have only one choice, but for 4X4 you have a break on 1-1-85. The part layout is the same, just not interchangeable. From the passenger side in, a RH outer T-rod end, which connects to a Connecting Tie Rod that connects to the Pitman Arm coming off the Steering Gear Box. Then from the Drivers side in, you have the LH Outer T-rod end, which connects to the LH inner Tie Rod, which connects to the middle of the Connecting Tie Rod. Both Tie Rod Ends connect to their T-Rods through an Adjusting Sleeve with two clamps each. PB Blaster owns them. Don't lay down without it.

 

[BigRigTech]

It doesn't matter if the stuff is cheap or expensive - they all last with a shot of grease every month or 2 at the most....Grease is cheap. A few years ago money was tight so I put some white box balljoints in my old F150 at MVI time - I figured I'd get a year out of them. When I retired the truck 4yrs later they were still tight....I grease my trucks once a month. I rarely replace front end parts.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yeah, two places to spend good money once and not look back is front end parts and front end parts. NAPA can be trusted.

NAPA suspension stuff is DANA stuff - few years ago I completely rebuilt the front end of my Lincoln with their heavy-duty parts, for the time to follow that car has seen more dirt roads and backwoods driving than my three trucks taken together, last summer when I brought her in for alignment check she was still near dead-on!

 

[THECACKLER]

M.L.S.C. - I had to laugh at the notion of a Town Car doin' the Fire Truck Trails throughout the U.P.. I'm pretty much a Ford Guy and I used to have a '68 Connie and if any Full sized Luxy thing could do it, it would be a Lincoln. What's the greasy side look like... Shiney?

 

[RLDSL]

I replaced all of the front end joints and sleeves on mine last year with Spicer parts from Rock Auto for a whole lot less than what anyone else wanted .

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I bought TRW and I bought them at advance auto parts. WOW I thought. Well last night I put on the inner driver side but now my truck shoots to the left when driving, I guess I need to find tune it by adjusting the sleeve a little. I also think its a good time to rotate my tires since I am having a problem with the thread cupping.