Throwout Bearing ?

[94turboidi]

I forgot to mention that I used a disc that has springs in it so I thought that would eliminate the rollover noise and maybe that is what you had with other smf kits that made the noise worse? The rollover noise at this point isn't my biggest worry I could live with it easily if it wasn't for this TOB noise. To give you an idea of how loud it is I originally thought it was metal to metal inside my vacuum pump that I had recently taken apart and put back together.

 

[MR.T]

The noisy smf I tried had a sprung disc, it even looked similar to the Luk. From underneath the truck, you can move the fork around by hand while it's idling, which might tell you some more about the cause of the noise.

 

[hesutton]

Tom, if you have time, give this a try. Take off the slave cylinder and take the fork out of the side of the transmission. Stick you hand through the fork opening and work some grease into the TOB. Also, put some on the main shaft collar. It can be a PITA to do and can take a bit of time, but give it a try. Anytime my TOB acts like yours is currently. I do this and the squeek stops and the clutch pedal effort is drastically reduced. Matter of fact, I tend to do this any time I change my oil.

Heath

 

[bab029]

The internal slave cylinders are acutally less cool than it might seem, not to mention of inherently weak design. I had to change one this summer in the middle of one of our heat waves. Got it all torn down and found a date stamp on the old Slave that indicated March of 2008. So it couldnt have possibly been in there more than an year and a half or so. So I installed the slave I got from advance, put it all back together, bled it and drove it ten miles before the slave started leaking again. So I ordered the ford part, and had it installed the next day after which the also brand-new-from-autozone master cylinder ceased to pump within 24 hours. Ordered the ford M/c and a new clutch line, because why not? Now I have a totally new clutch system.
Two big lessons here:
For internal slave cylinders, OEM parts only. Pulling the trans is enough work to justify the cost as long as I dont have to do it again for a while.

Manuals may not be that much less expensive to maintain than Autos (If taken care of).

I say all that to say this, I considered bolting up the 4 speed I have behind the house so I could have the external slave. Plus I can R&R a t18 by myself...

 

[gonecrazyi]

Internal slaves are a pain. Are you sure tour system is bled enough? I had the same probrlem as you and had to bleedthe system more.

 

[bab029]

No, I had fluid leaking past the seal around the rod. Had some issues bleeding the system, but finally got it. I'm thoroughly convinced that a well built c6/e4od with additional cooling capability is superior to a manual for many applications outside of REAL towing on a regular basis.

 

[hesutton]

I'm thoroughly convinced that a well built c6/e4od with additional cooling capability is superior to a manual for many applications outside of REAL towing on a regular basis.

I've got two diesel C6 trannies (one 4x4 and one 2x4) and a diesel 2x4 E4OD I'm never going to use. If you are interested in any or all of them, shoot me a PM.

Heath

 

[bab029]

Thanks, i'll keep you in mind! If I'm ever in your area with a truck we can share some good ***** and swap some lies. I can say that I'd love to see your current project in person for sure...wont need anything any time soon though, my truck only has a few miles on a fresh built e4od (huge aux cooler and it's own tstat controlled fan).

 

[hesutton]

If I'm ever in your area with a truck we can share some good ***** and swap some lies. I can say that I'd love to see your current project in person for sure....

Sounds like a good time to me.

Heath

 

[94turboidi]

Well I have read where several people have done what your talking about and greasing it but what irks me about trying this is the fact that its all brand new and the main collar or well I think for calls it a quill was cleaned up really good and greased really good when apart. I didn't add grease to the new throwout bearing because it was brand new and looked to be sealed. The fork is brand new and I put a dab of grease on the tips of it where it will touch the TOB and I greased the pivot ball which was in good shape. So at this point I am thinking that there has to be something wrong with the new TOB. The old parts were all in degrading shape but was still usable. I know I am really dang close to having the transmission work the way it should. In fact it drives around great and shifts fine when I have it adjusted correctly at the pedal but that squeal is bad.

Does anyone know a ford part number or a really good TOB to use? Also interested in where to find a new quill (main shaft collar) if they aren't too expensive.

 

[redneckaggie]

Mine has done this for almost a year and I have changed the tob twice with two different brands and greased everything really good. I have not replaced the pilot bearing so that was going to be my next step

 

[94turboidi]

Well the only thing I didn't put on new was the flywheel and main shaft collar so I am thinking about replacing those. I know alot of people don't like the dmf and I had my share of problems with it also that is why its welded but if I could put a new one on and get 100k out of it I would be happy. Heck with the price of diesel I should state that in years not miles because its too expensive to drive most of the time unless I am running on oil.

 

[tractorman86]

The rollover noise at low engine rpm is normal, some claim to have quieted it down by switching to a synthetic atf and over filling by a quart. I highly recommended the heim joint mod. When I did my clutch the pedal was light and felt like I hadn't bled it for the first little while, maybe adjust it so the noise goes away then pump the living s*** out of it and see what happens

 

[94turboidi]

Okay heres kind of an update although I am not finished. I have had the new pedal bushings and the heim joint to replace that plastic clutch pushrod bushing for awhile but didn't have time between weather and other things. A few days ago I pulled it all apart and put in the new bushings and heim joint. I didn't use the adjustable pushrod that was allowing me to use the clutch before because I think it should work without it. Well it all went back together and the pedal effort is alot easier but now I can't get it in gear.

I bought a slave cylinder designed for a 93 instead of one for a 90 and here is what I found out. The 90 has a 1 1/4" bore and the 93 has a 1 1/32" bore. Thats 7/32" less bore size so that should make the slave push out slightly more which should be just enough to get it to correctly dissengage.

Now another thing with all my previous removal and installing of the slave cylinder I had accidently broken one of the metal tabs that keeps the slave in and I believe it was wobbling somewhat and this might be what was causing the squeeking sound. I also am thinking that using this slave cylinder without the adjustable pushrod it won't have as much pressure against it and that should hopefully stop the noise.

I have a theory that I may have damaged the tob by adjusting the pushrod too far out to be able to use the clutch and if thats the case it might make that noise right when I start to press the pedal and then go away as it gets pressure on it but should hopefully stop while my foot is off. If not I will probably have to replace the TOB. Anyways its pouring down rain and its sitting in the mud right now so it might be a few days before I get it installed. I am hoping for the best because this has been in the back of my mind all winter and kinda stressing me out not knowing exactly whats wrong.

 

[94turboidi]

double post