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The Installation Of Transgo's 'Tugger' Reprogramming Kit (Shift Kit For HD Hauling & Towing)

Discussion in 'IDI Tech Article' started by FORDF250HDXLT, Aug 2, 2017.

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  1. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    Transgo Tugger kit for E4OD & 4R100!


    A shift kit designed for heavy duty towing.A kit that will transform the oem mushy shifting E4OD into a HD towing machine with firm,crisp shifts and help prolong the life of the trans.

    Instructions:
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    Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
    Sidewinded_idi and riotwarrior like this.
  2. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    So I have the 1st type valve body.This means I don't drill and skip step 1.

    Step 2.Install the orange spring.Here you can see the oem spring that gets taken out on the bottom and replaced with the orange spring on the top.Reinsert these things back into their slot as shown.
    [​IMG]

    Steps 3 & 4.Here we go.This ones a bit more tricky and takes some time to get everything out.The oem stuff pulled out and is on the bottom.This line up top slides right into the bore where this stuff came out off as shown.
    [​IMG]

    Notice the re-installed retainer here mid way,as noted in the instructions:
    [​IMG]

    OK.That wasn't so bad right? Very fun actually! Page one completed.

    Page 2.Step 1.
    With the 1st type valve body,it's simply: Install the red spring.The oem spring (as shown on bottom) gets replaced by the red spring (as shown on top.) Find this particular red spring located in this baggy shown.
    [​IMG]


    The other thing noted on page 2 for the 1st type valve body,is to not drill this hole.Well how easy is a step when it has you not do a step at all? This is child's play.Little green sled and all.:D
    [​IMG]

    Page 3.Step 1.Note the slot here in the accumulator body? This means No need to drill.Drill a couple holes if you see no slot here.
    It's this easy.Don't let the instructions trick you.See where it shows the row of springs and valves? That's because if you need to drill a couple holes here,you would first need to remove everything in this bore.Drill your holes.Debur and clean the bore,then you would have the instructions to show you what order the stuff went back in,that's all.
    [​IMG]

    Page 3.Step 2.Install these new springs.
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    Page 3.Step 3.Steel valve (shown on bottom) replaces the old valve (shown on top) along with this row shown.
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    Page 3.Step 4.Insert blue spring here.
    [​IMG]

    Notice the drilled and modified solenoid pack (top) I just took out of the trans that's going in the truck (a ford reman.) It would likely be fine but since I have the newer and improved style and the kit states it's better to use the bottom type,so I'll use it instead.However I'm sure the top works just as well and I'll keep it as a spare.......though solenoid packs very,rarely fail.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    Page 4.Step 1.Enlarge this hole with .110 drill bit.
    [​IMG]


    Page 4.Step 1 continued.Install the orifice paying attention to which side of the plate it shows in the instructions.
    [​IMG]


    Set the included 1/4" ball on it and give it a little smack.It will flare the orifice.
    [​IMG]


    Notice it can't go anywhere with it peened and flared like this.
    [​IMG]


    Page 4.Step 2.Enlarge these 3 holes with the supplied .81 drill bit.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Step 3 is self explanatory.You'll see the old spring and poppet there.You'll just replace those with a new longer spring (more tension) and poppet.
    While your there,take notice to ensure all check balls get reinserted in their correct locations if your doing this in the truck.My trans was upside down so they couldn't fall out and roll away.Use caution when lowering that down.Get a helper if you can.Tricky part if in the truck but the instructions sheet is all you'll need for it for the final step on page 4.


    Page 5.Calibration plate.
    I used the calibration plate I had already modified.According to the instructions,this may not be a good idea with a custom low stall converter.It may produce too firm of shifts.I can always use the new plate if I think so,latter on.
    Anyway,the instruction sheet is clear on this as well and this part is an exact replica as the previous Transgo kit I had installed so if you need any extra help with this part,see this thread:
    the installation of transgo's E40D-HD2-D reprogramming kit (shift kit)
     
  4. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    Lastly,pump mods! Even funner part!

    The transmission must be pulled to install the pump mods.It is very important and worthwhile because these mods here not only make lockup of the converter feel nice and firm but it also drastically increases the applied lock up force! Think of this like the clutch behind a manual trans.OEM here is a little bit,in a way,slightly always riding the clutch (at least when heavy hauling and towing) which burns out your clutch in your converter.With increasing this hydraulic pressure here,your helping to ensure the converter clutch disc don't slip and ware out! So it's very much worth your time to pull your trans if it's in the truck to mod your pump.

    WARNING!
    You can find yourself in big trouble real quick if you don't know what your doing here! Do not pry your pump out! Do not pull the pump out without the trans standing on its tail! The coast clutch assembly can fall out with the pump removed! It can be one of the hardest puzzles you've ever played with trying to get things lined back up properly if it falls out!! The pump needs it's gears installed exactly how you remove them when you split the pump! So if they fall out,look up pics online to ensure they go back in properly. You must line the pump up perfectly when you put it back together,both with the outer rim and it's bolt holes!!


    There is no shame in taking your trans to a trans shop with the pump still in the trans,to have them do this part for you.Over the years,I've done just about everything your not supposed to,to gain the knowledge and understanding first hand.The school of hard knocks isn't for everything though.Know your limitations.


    There was an E9 pump in the trans going in (ford reman) I suspect in good condition but I didn't split it to inspect it yet.Anyway,I wanted the high volume pump so I ordered a F5 reman.
    This F5 has a nice lip I see where the bushing goes so it's impossible to walk forward! I liked seeing this.This wasn't on my last E9 in the old trans,nor was it on the used F5 I bought to replace it with back along.So this was a nice treat.All new bushing installed and seals,she's a thing of beauty.
    [​IMG]
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    Page 6.Step 2.Enlarge this orifice.I really like a firm lock up.I opted to go .93
    This way here it helps it feel more like a shift.
    [​IMG]


    Page 6.Step 3.Install this new,yellow spring.
    [​IMG]


    Page 6.Step 4.Remove the oem (top row) and replace with the new (bottom) row.
    [​IMG]


    I strongly recommend you install this was well.It's very simple.Takes just a couple minutes and can save your transmission!
    I didn't know if the person who reman this pump would install another plastic oem or upgrade to the steel drainback so I bought one in preparation.Sure enough,out came an oem plastic (top) to be replaced with a new steel (bottom)

    Sonnax Front Lube/Drainback Valve Kit - 36425-01K

    [​IMG]


    Now you have just modified your E4OD/4R100 with the best kit money can buy and you've just extended the life of your trans drastically by performing these mods.Your going to love the way you just transformed your trans! You won't even think it's the same one.It will shift and perform far above oem.You'll be able to feel the difference and know you have a HD trans in your HD truck now.

    No ZF5 can shift anywhere near this quick.;)

    Enjoy!:)
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2017
  5. jwalterus

    jwalterus Made in America

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    You should change all the pictures to the thumbnail option.
     
  6. riotwarrior

    riotwarrior Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Love it...too bad u wrong side of country....
     
  7. raydav

    raydav Full Access Member

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    Good job.

    I rebuilt the E4OD behind my 7.3 IDI a couple years ago using that same valve body kit. I am glad you mentioned the plastic drain back valve. I once melted one.

    I had never done an E4OD before. I spent three days on the trans and two on the valve body - all by-the-book.

    Yes, you can build your own. Read the entire instructions first, twice, and then go slow.

    I have since acquired a proper press for that one pack. The shop that built my turbo had it laying in a corner and didn't even know what it was.
     
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  8. Sidewinded_idi

    Sidewinded_idi Full Access Member

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    I know it’s an old thread but how do you like it so far? I have the banks trans module and have very firm shifts and tc lockup but my trans builder buddy was telling me I gotta get a tugger kit, says he puts them in every 4r100 he does
     
  9. FORDF250HDXLT

    FORDF250HDXLT The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air Supporting Member

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    I've had one of these in my chip truck for years.I really like having this nice solid trans with the tugger,in the my F450 too.I just took her out yesterday for a couple nice loads of logs.I wouldn't change a thing.
    The banks trans command simply alters line pressure electronically (like you can do with a resistor,though at least the banks unit is variable) it doesn't compare to a good valve body kit like these at all.If you have the spare Benjamin and the time,do yourself a favor,ditch that banks and install the tugger.You'll feel the major difference.
     
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