To remove olives you need to back the nut off the olive. Prevent the olive from rotating with the nut by stabbing and holding it with a pick or knife.
The hunt for air begins...
- Thread starter N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
- Start date
All done for now and nothing is leaking
What else can I check in the fuel system for leaks.
I've replaced all return lines with new caps and o rings,got rid of hard line from lift pump to filter head,replaced olives,replaced return hose from IP to hard line.
I've read somewhere that under IP could be a source of leak??
Next is the glow plug system!!Might be looking for a new harness
What else can I check in the fuel system for leaks.
I've replaced all return lines with new caps and o rings,got rid of hard line from lift pump to filter head,replaced olives,replaced return hose from IP to hard line.
I've read somewhere that under IP could be a source of leak??
Next is the glow plug system!!Might be looking for a new harness
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
Defrocked - our situation sounds VERY similar... Waiting on parts, and better weather to keep going with mine though... Forecast of -15 tomorrow night... Ah, New England! I already did some cheap return kit from a part store before I started this thread, and it seems fine, but I'm going to redo it with one of typ4's... Getting fresh olives from him too. I figure all at once is the way to do it, since I have a bad habit of bumping into/wiggling lines when I'm under the hood. :/
Waiting til just after the holiday to do everything you're doing now.... Thank's for being the guinea pig! Keep me posted on the GP's too... Gonna do those myself as well... I think I may just grab those GP's and do it all. Only have to remove air intake and GP relay once... Way better
Oh yeah... When I took my front filterhead olive off, what TahoeTom said worked for me... If you can hold the olive, the thread does the work.
I already did some cheap return kit from a part store before I started this thread, and it seems fine, but I'm going to redo it with one of typ4's... Getting fresh olives from him too. I figure all at once is the way to do it, since I have a bad habit of bumping into/wiggling lines when I'm under the hood. :/Waiting til just after the holiday to do everything you're doing now.... Thank's for being the guinea pig! Keep me posted on the GP's too... Gonna do those myself as well... I think I may just grab those GP's and do it all. Only have to remove air intake and GP relay once... Way better
Oh yeah... When I took my front filterhead olive off, what TahoeTom said worked for me... If you can hold the olive, the thread does the work.
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
I've heard of the "below the IP" spot... But it's a last resort for me in my mind, if I know everything else is good, and there's still air getting in.
I wouldn't want to mess my timing up fiddling around with the IP... I've also heard that's pretty easy to accidentally do as well...
I wouldn't want to mess my timing up fiddling around with the IP... I've also heard that's pretty easy to accidentally do as well...
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Underneath would be the pump drive weephole.
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Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
So that's a spot that just appears with age? I did my water pump a month ago when I got her... Big weep hole on that as well. Is there a way to get at/feel/see under there and check that wouldn't require removing all the injector lines...? Or does the weep hole appear somewhere else?
That olive was so hard that brake cleaner just loosened it up but didn't help much.I just took it to the kitchen burner for about 15-20 sec then picked it out with a knife,fairly simple!! N E Ford,don't mind at all...gotta do it regardless so I will just post as I go along.Starting to learn my way around the more I read and do,just thankful for this site.We aren't all deisel mechanics by trade!
79jasper
Chickenhawk
This will show the weephole.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veEONfhL3Uk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
The shraeder valve can be taken apart and cleaned. Just need a valve stem remover. Could even replace the valve itself.
Not sure on the heater o-ring's.
I guess you could remove the in/out lines, plug one side, and use a mity-vac to see if it leaks air in.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veEONfhL3Uk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
The shraeder valve can be taken apart and cleaned. Just need a valve stem remover. Could even replace the valve itself.
Not sure on the heater o-ring's.
I guess you could remove the in/out lines, plug one side, and use a mity-vac to see if it leaks air in.
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N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
Awesome vid! It makes me wonder something... That bleed valve on the top of the pump... He says it goes to the return, so if I put a clear tube from there to my cap, would that be a way to diagnose a possible weep hole? I would think you would see the air coming out and going toward cap if there was one, since pump housing pressure is 3psi and return line is around 1psi... That anywhere near correct?
johneich
John, 1983 F250
I found my weep hole by using a mirror on a telescoping stick, its at the bottom back of the IP, below all the hard lines, IIRC. If its weeping it will be filling your valley pan with diesel, draining to the back of the engine, mine dripped onto my starter. Told me it was new IP time.
I chased air leaks for years and finally installed a check valve between the fuel pump and the filter. Granted, this does not solve an air leak issue in the return lines however it does make it a "non-issue". The check valve will not allow the fuel to bleed back into the tank and virtually "locks" it in place meaning it will be there when you turn the key.
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
Where would one acquire one of these check valves? Sounds pretty ideal... Any special type required?
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