"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

chillman88

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Plus a couple spots that look crappy. I'm under the impression it was probably residual acid from the pre-dip.

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Either way it will get pressure washed, degreased and most likely primed/painted.

Odd... The welded spots built up after galvanizing. They were sanded flat before sand blasting?

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I'm happy enough, even with the bad spots.
 

CalIDI

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$430! I figured it would have costed more than that! I guess I just figured that because I had never seen a galvanized frame it must cost more than 1K... Nice.

-CalIDI
 

catbird7

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You can also buy zinc rich "cold spray galvanizing", we used it at work for touching up areas where the coating was thin. ASTM a123 dictates a processing standard and includes multiple coating thickness. The price tag seems reasonable to me however to someone living outside the rust belt may seem illogical simply because they're unaware of the corrosives we deal with.
 

chillman88

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$430! I figured it would have costed more than that! I guess I just figured that because I had never seen a galvanized frame it must cost more than 1K... Nice.

-CalIDI

When I started researching it I saw some people doing Land Rover frames for around $250. That was several years ago so I'm sure the prices have just gone up since then.

The price tag seems reasonable to me however to someone living outside the rust belt may seem illogical simply because they're unaware of the corrosives we deal with.

No kidding. I love reading Facebook and the southern guys are like "it's not stuck just hit it with your purse" Dude, I'll pay you to drive up here and show me how "not rusted stuck" it really is LOL
 

IDIBRONCO

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The price tag seems reasonable to me however to someone living outside the rust belt may seem illogical simply because they're unaware of the corrosives we deal with.
I don't live in the rust belt, but that price seems pretty reasonable to me.
 

david85

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Looks plenty thick to me. The other spots can be managed. Either way, this thing is good to go another 50years. No powder coating will come close to that longevity.

Oh, and if you really REALLY want to make things perfect, there is such a thing as "flame zinc" that can be used as touchup. I'd just use zinc paint (brush on) and call it good.
 

chillman88

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Per Ford TSB

TSB 97-03-10 Frame Noise
Publication Date: FEBRUARY 3, 1997

See Here if you're curious about specifics https://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/54113-2

5/8-11 flanged bolt with prevailing torque flange nut torqued to 185lb/ft and tack welded together. Coated with spray on cold zinc.

I drilled the hole to 5/8 before galvanizing, and reamed it to 5/8 after galvanizing for a nice tight fit. I oiled under the head of the bolt and nut to ensure proper torquing. Should solve the problem for good now I would imagine.

Obligatory crappy cell phone pics:

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chillman88

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Changed out the glow plugs today. These were installed around 2016? They don't look terrible for the most part. One of them is noticably chewed up on the end though. Two of them were already replaced once a couple years ago.

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Truck starts now!
 

chillman88

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Windshield washers didn't work when I got this truck, sprayer nozzle was snapped off. I put some adhesive heat shrink on it to attach the hose which worked fine for a few years until my Texas trip. The adhesive melted and I lost washers.... I had bought a new sprayer nozzle from Bronco Graveyard and then my pump died. I never did get the sprayer nozzle working.

I bit the bullet and bought a new washer reservoir with pump. Had crap luck with trying to replace the old pump and brittle 30+ year old plastic. Worst part of the whole job was paying $20 for shipping LOL

I don't know how close it is to the hood. It seems to clear but I'll know better after a little while driving. Holds a full gallon of fluid which I wanted. They do have smaller ones available as well. This is the one I used, your results may vary.

The new bottle ALMOST lined up with the existing bolts. I forced it a little bit and it popped on and I was able to tighten up the stock hardware with no modifications.

I already had the wiring pigtail for another project, but that was the only modification required for this. You could always just crimp on spade connectors if you wanted to.

I found a bunch of gunk in the sprayer nozzle. No clue how that happened. Probably what killed the old pump. Cleaned it out and IT WORKS NOW!!!

Very happy to finally have functional washers again after years without!

Washer reservoir with pump https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=117553&catid=934

Pigtail I used for sale on Amazon https://a.co/d/j6LrZPH

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I may do a write up after a little bit of running it to make sure there aren't any clearance issues that pop up. It is sitting on the inner fender which could become an issue down the road.

Also found this wire I hadn't noticed before. I'll have to figure that out at some point....

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chillman88

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I need the trailer emptied so now that it's stopped raining every.... Single... Day........

I got the frame unloaded. Tractor didn't struggle at all and I don't think it could have worked better. I was able to lift and lower it as needed to wiggle the rear axle back under it.

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It's funny that the tractor lifted the bare frame without issues but didn't like lifting just the front after I hooked up the D60. Didn't think it weighed THAT much lol.

She's on the temporary axles and a roller again!

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And... The F26E 38 gallon rear tank is supposed to be here Tuesday. Hopefully it shows up in good shape after shipping from California to NY. I think I'm going to order new straps and sending unit just for peace of mind. I'll be livid if I get everything together and the sending unit stops working, especially if I have 38gal of fuel in it!
 

chillman88

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Care package from Bronco Graveyard showed up today.

New sending unit, vent and grommet, and new upper tank straps.

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Amazon dropped off the new poly rear leaf spring bushings and the new poly bumpstops. I wanted to go with OE rubber bumpstops but they were $50/per vs $33 for all four.....
 
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