Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
.........oooo-eeeeyyy that's purdy......
Rock
Rock
"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually
- Thread starter chillman88
- Start date
OH MY! That looks awesome! How well did it penetrate at the overlap areas where individual cross members intersect with main outer frame rails? Traditionally those are not problem areas for rusting, just curious how well the hot dip process worked.
I don't have it yet, they were still working on the brackets and stuff. I just happened to be there dropping something else off and saw it.
I'll definitely get better pictures when I get it picked up. There's some.... Grainyness? Around the brackets that are still riveted to the frame. Overall I believe it's coated well, just some areas with less than perfect appearance. Sounds like the acid dip wicks in and if it doesn't all drain it "blows out" when it gets dipped in the zinc. I'm not going to worry about it but I wouldn't be happy if I was worried about astetics. You'll see what I mean when I get the pictures.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Good thing it will be underneath the truck and won't show.
david85
Full Access Member
You can use a high zinc primer to touch up anything that didn't get covered. Even pour it into the joints if you want. Either way, you have way more protection than any conventional paint.
I'm fighting with myself now. Anything more I do is overkill, the body is definitely going to rot away before the frame.... But I still feel like I need to paint it so I'm pretty sure I'm going that route. Then I'll run all my fuel lines and everything and probably hit it with cosmoline or something before dropping the body back on just for good measure.
In the interest of cost savings I think I'm going to paint and "rebuild" the old leaf springs with some new pads. If they turn out to be a little weak from age I've been planning on adding air bags anyway....
Cant Write
Full Access Member
@chillman88 @david85
I thought a few pages back Dave mentioned that the zinc coating needs O2 to breathe (react) and continue to create a rust proof/resistant barrier.
I’m already way over my head with this post. And I would want it black too, but why would you compromise its task of rust prevention if it’s best left uncovered?
I might be remembering way off in left field, and I mean no harm, but if it’s best left shiny; well my frame would be shiny.
I’m just being the idiot with a loud mouth whilst trying to absorb the intelligence here. No harm no foul.....
I thought a few pages back Dave mentioned that the zinc coating needs O2 to breathe (react) and continue to create a rust proof/resistant barrier.
I’m already way over my head with this post. And I would want it black too, but why would you compromise its task of rust prevention if it’s best left uncovered?
I might be remembering way off in left field, and I mean no harm, but if it’s best left shiny; well my frame would be shiny.
I’m just being the idiot with a loud mouth whilst trying to absorb the intelligence here. No harm no foul.....
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Oh no. I agree. In fact, I think that he should add some white undercarriage lights so that it shines at night too!I’m just being the idiot with a loud mouth whilst trying to absorb the intelligence here. No harm no foul.....
@chillman88 @david85
I thought a few pages back Dave mentioned that the zinc coating needs O2 to breathe (react) and continue to create a rust proof/resistant barrier.
I’m already way over my head with this post. And I would want it black too, but why would you compromise its task of rust prevention if it’s best left uncovered?
I might be remembering way off in left field, and I mean no harm, but if it’s best left shiny; well my frame would be shiny.
I’m just being the idiot with a loud mouth whilst trying to absorb the intelligence here. No harm no foul.....
As I've said before, more questions is "more better"
There's been a few times someone has asked something that has changed my mind after I thought about it. What you're referring to is....While that is a valid point, zinc is a sacrificial coating, where paint is not. By coating the galvanizing it should protect the zinc by providing an initial barrier against "oxidation" thus making the whole system last much longer.
To his point...
Have you ever seen how aluminum handles road spray? It powders off little by little as it corrodes. However, if you paint it that process doesn't happen until the paint is compromised.
By painting the galvanizing it will stop the coating from wearing away prematurely, but the zinc will still protect any areas that get scratched/scuffed or (hopefully not but) if the paint should begin to peel.
As I've said before, I'm definitely overthinking this and overdoing it, but if it's going to be done it's now or never, so go overkill now!
captain720
Full Access Member
I paint zinc rich coatings all the time, it is an excellent thing to do. Lasts forever.
What's your process? Do you do anything special between coatings or are you just using coatings that are designed to work together?
The epoxy primer I will likely be using does say it's ok to use on Galvanized steel. I'm more concerned with proper prep right now. I'm leaning towards degrease and scotch Brite scuff. I considered acid etching but that seems to be a highly debated topic on whether or not it's a good idea, so I'd rather err on the side of caution and just manually scuff the surface instead.
captain720
Full Access Member
Acid etching is the best for bare steel, for asthetics I often wet sand the zinc and wipeout or wax and grease remover before paint but for the frame I would scuff and than wipeout or wax and grease remover.
The post everyone is waiting for.
$430 total out the door.
Has some spots that don't look great, but most of it looks good.
I asked for you, because I was curious too. He said everything they do is ASTM A123.
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$430 total out the door.
Has some spots that don't look great, but most of it looks good.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I asked for you, because I was curious too. He said everything they do is ASTM A123.
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