....I have a habit of turning a half hour job into a full days nightmare
Sig worthy statement....buwa ha ha...sounds like a lot of us...
T19 Manual tranny/ throwout bearing squeak
- Thread starter Scratcher
- Start date
Sig worthy statement....buwa ha ha...sounds like a lot of us...
MTKirk
Full Access Member
What exactly is the procedure for removing and replacing the clutch fork? I have a habit of turning a half hour job into a full days nightmare
It's easiest if you can get the truck up a bit, so put the front up on jackstands (or a hoist). You need a flashlight, a small mirror is nice so you can see whats going on in there, two standard screwdrivers to pry off the slave clip, and a big zip tie or piece of wire to hang the slave with. Optionally you can also take off the inspection cover (highly recommend you do this the first time, you get better light and a better mirror angle) In this case you will need a ratchet, some extensions (3" & 6" wobble if you have them) & a 1/2"? or 9/16"? socket) .
Once the truck is up take off the slave, first remove the metal clip by sliding a screw driver blade between the clip and the bell housing flange (the skinny part closest to the ground) then pry downward slightly while using the other screw driver to pry up the barbed end of the clip. Be patient, don't force it, you need to reuse this clip. Once the clip is off you should be able to remove the slave. You do have to compress the plunger on the slave to do this. If your clutch pedal is adjusted correctly you should be able to compress the plunger with hand pressure. If the linkage has been tightened up to stop the squeaking, you are fighting against the hydraulic pressure of the clutch system (and you'll lose) so you will have to unhook the linkage from the master cylinder plunger rod (you do this by using a regular screw driver to pry the pivot out of the nylon bushing at the end of the master rod. Removing the inspection cover is pretty straight forward, though; the bolt by the starter is a little tricky (you just need the right extension length & it's cake)
When you pull out the slave hang it with the zip tie or wire to make sure NO TENSION IS PLACED ON THE PLASTIC HYDRAULIC LINE! Now remove the rubber boot from the clutch fork. Then you simply pull the fork out. BUT BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OUT look up in there, find the pivot ball and the spring steel clip that holds the fork on the ball, and note how the fork sits in the TO bearing hub (you have to install your new fork exactly this way). Next, with your grease gun extension, or a long artists paint brush apply about half a Tablespoon of high-temp wheel bearing grease to trans input shaft sleeve (where the TO bearing rides) try to force some up under the bearing, deposit a small dab on the pivot ball, and put some on the TO bearing hub right where the fork rides. Then compare the new fork to the old one before installing it. You are looking for wear at the "U" where the TO bearing sits, at the pivot ball, and the dimple where the slave rod engages. Also look for a bend in the fork. Even a tiny amount of wear on the TO bearing surface makes the TO bearing squeal, wear here or anywhere else changes the leverage of the clutch throw, messes with throw length, and makes the pedal harder to push.
Take a few pictures of the fork and post them here. Put a small amount of grease on the U where the TO bearing contact is, on the pivot point, and in the slave dimple. Put the new fork in, making sure it slots into the TO bearing hub (the U-channel) AND the pivot spring clip, then replace the rubber boot, then put the slave back in (push the clip back in place with a rubber hammer (or a block of wood & a steel hammer) BE GENTLE! (it helps to grease the inside of the clip). VIOLA, you're DONE!!
It took me at least twice as long to type this as it does to actually do it!
Last edited:
Scratcher
Registered User
Really appreciate your taking the time to do this MTKirk. New fork should arrive on Tuesday. Gonna steam clean around the tranny before I do the work. There's a leak from the top of the tranny which will be the next project after then fork replace.
Look up tech 101 clutch slave install I did a video that should help installation...same for zf as T19
I myself caution about the utilization of wheel bearing grease as it is quite thick. I tend to look for a slightly thinner synthetic grease for the bearing retainer / to bearing pilot myself...
Best thing is we are individuals a d can make our own choices....
JM7.3CW
I myself caution about the utilization of wheel bearing grease as it is quite thick. I tend to look for a slightly thinner synthetic grease for the bearing retainer / to bearing pilot myself...
Best thing is we are individuals a d can make our own choices....
JM7.3CW
Scratcher
Registered User
Thanks........found it!
MTKirk
Full Access Member
Great video! Oddly enough I do have an Uncle Bob.
Scratcher
Registered User
Well the fork has arrived but I can't do the work until I return from Alabama next week. A funny thing happened though. The squeak is gone! I'm still going to change the fork though because Murphy's law states that the squeak will return in the middle of winter when there's snow on the ground!
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