T19 Manual tranny/ throwout bearing squeak

[Scratcher]

Had the clutch done on this just over a year ago. Took it back just before the warranty was up with a throw out bearing squeak (Sounds like a cricket unless I apply light pressure on the clutch pedal and it goes away) They greased it and it was gone for about 500 miles and now its back and I'm out of warranty. I get the feeling I've been had and they should have replaced the bearing. Only done about 5,000 on the new clutch. Now I wish i had learned how do do a clutch! Is this a major problem? Will the bearing go out and lose clutch if left?

 

[MTKirk]

Had the clutch done on this just over a year ago. Took it back just before the warranty was up with a throw out bearing squeak (Sounds like a cricket unless I apply light pressure on the clutch pedal and it goes away) They greased it and it was gone for about 500 miles and now its back and I'm out of warranty. I get the feeling I've been had and they should have replaced the bearing. Only done about 5,000 on the new clutch. Now I wish i had learned how do do a clutch! Is this a major problem? Will the bearing go out and lose clutch if left?

Before you pull the transmission remove your clutch release fork and inspect it for grooves worn in where the T.O. bearing rides. This messes with the pre-load on the bearing and makes it squeak. If you have any kind of groove replace the fork (around $20 & a half hour job max).

 

[G. Mann]

How did they grease the throw out bearing? There is NO grease zerk on it.. Sounds like they used the "Throw enough **** on the wall until some of it sticks" method.. and sent you down the road..

Go to a parts store and ask for a throw out bearing for your truck.. take it out of the box and look at it.. so you can see what you have.. then go back and talk to the blithering idiot that just blew smoke up your ass by "greasing the throw out bearing"...

Grrrrrrrr...

T 19 trans isn't as bad as a ZF5 to drop.. just remember when you pull the shifter.. DO NOT LOSE THE TAPERED BOLT that holds it in.. They are Hell to find..

Drop the drive shaft.. install transmission jack.. remove transmission to bell housing bolts...remove the rear mount and support member, slide trans back.. bobs your uncle. you will be staring at the throw out bearing.

If you don't rotate the trans input shaft, it should slide back in without much fuss..and line up on the clutch splines..

 

[franklin2]

Sounds like the metal face of the bearing is sliding a little bit on the fingers of the clutch diaphragm, causing a squeak. I would see if you have any type of adjustment in the linkage, most do not. I think someone said Napa clutch masters may come with an adjustable push rod. I cut my push rod, threaded it, and made it adjustable.

Once you found a way to adjust it, you could either pull the bearing away from the fingers so it would not lay against them and squeak, or adjust it so it presses a little harder(like you are doing with your foot now) and it will have a more positive drive to turn the throwout bearing and keep it from slipping and squeaking. It surprised me the first time I messed with one of these hydraulic clutches, how this setup makes the throwout bearing turn all the time during normal operation. Apparently that's how they designed it.

 

[MTKirk]

Sounds like the metal face of the bearing is sliding a little bit on the fingers of the clutch diaphragm, causing a squeak. I would see if you have any type of adjustment in the linkage, most do not. I think someone said Napa clutch masters may come with an adjustable push rod. I cut my push rod, threaded it, and made it adjustable.

Once you found a way to adjust it, you could either pull the bearing away from the fingers so it would not lay against them and squeak, or adjust it so it presses a little harder(like you are doing with your foot now) and it will have a more positive drive to turn the throwout bearing and keep it from slipping and squeaking. It surprised me the first time I messed with one of these hydraulic clutches, how this setup makes the throwout bearing turn all the time during normal operation. Apparently that's how they designed it.

Yep, there's a spring in the slave cylinder that maintains a constant pressure on TO bearing regardless of any pedal/linkage/hydraulic action, So if your T.O. bearing gets tipped, from say A GROOVED CLUTCH RELEASE FORK, the bearing will squeak until you apply enough pedal/linkage/hydraulic pressure to knock the TO bearing into proper alignment.

 

[TahoeTom]

They probably greased the input shaft housing the TO bearing rides on. I don't think the TO bearing is supposed to rotate unless you step on the pedal. They would wear out pretty fast if constantly rotating. Those bearings that come with clutch kits look pretty cheap. I shift to neutral and let out the clutch if stopped at a light to let the bearing stop spinning. I have a slight squeak at times also but not too bad. It may even be the clutch fork rattling. With a prior clutch that had a loud squeak, I could stop it by putting my hand on the fork.

 

[Scratcher]

I shift to neutral and let out the clutch if stopped at a light to let the bearing stop spinning. I have a slight squeak at times also but not too bad.

Mine squeaks in neutral. Its especially loud from a cold start ie: first start of the day.


Thanks for the help guys. I'm hoping I don't have to get into dropping the tranny. I have arthritis in my neck (Spondylosis) and don't think my worn joints could take wrenching on my back with my arms up. Think I could handle the fork though!

 

[Scratcher]

Since the fork is the cheapest parts option and the easiest fix, I just ordered one from Rock Auto. Haven't pulled the old one yet, but based on what I've read in this thread I'm 85% sure this is the problem. Since the shop also went for the easiest "fix" I'm sure what they did was probably slap some grease around the fork where it meets the T.O. After 500 miles of consistent clutching the grease stopped doing its work and the squeak returned.

This was supposed to be a reputable shop too.
My suspicions were first raised when they told me I had a small tranny fluid leak where the stick goes into the box. Even after doing the clutch they failed to fix the leak. When I asked them why they said "We didn't have time" What would it have taken since the tranny was dropped anyway, to fix that leak? When I was younger I did all my own work and learned as I went along. I just can't do what i used to be able to do. Whatever happened to all the old school mechanics!?

 

[MTKirk]

Since the fork is the cheapest parts option and the easiest fix, I just ordered one from Rock Auto. Haven't pulled the old one yet, but based on what I've read in this thread I'm 85% sure this is the problem. Since the shop also went for the easiest "fix" I'm sure what they did was probably slap some grease around the fork where it meets the T.O. After 500 miles of consistent clutching the grease stopped doing its work and the squeak returned.

This was supposed to be a reputable shop too.
My suspicions were first raised when they told me I had a small tranny fluid leak where the stick goes into the box. Even after doing the clutch they failed to fix the leak. When I asked them why they said "We didn't have time" What would it have taken since the tranny was dropped anyway, to fix that leak? When I was younger I did all my own work and learned as I went along. I just can't do what i used to be able to do. Whatever happened to all the old school mechanics!?

When you change the fork, take a look at the pivot ball, make sure it isn't worn and put some grease on it. Make your self a extension for a grease gun that will allow you to put a little grease on the transmission output sleeve right where it meets the TOB (see the pic? the wear grooves left of the splines is where you apply the grease, do this every oil change & you won't get this wear). It is possible that the spring in the slave cylinder is weak and won't align the TOB, in that case you'll have to replace the slave (easy to do, but a B*TCH to bleed the system after). Your symptoms don't sound like a TO bearing to me, so I would do all the aforementioned before I pulled the trans. again.

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[MTKirk]

They probably greased the input shaft housing the TO bearing rides on. I don't think the TO bearing is supposed to rotate unless you step on the pedal. They would wear out pretty fast if constantly rotating. Those bearings that come with clutch kits look pretty cheap. I shift to neutral and let out the clutch if stopped at a light to let the bearing stop spinning. I have a slight squeak at times also but not too bad. It may even be the clutch fork rattling. With a prior clutch that had a loud squeak, I could stop it by putting my hand on the fork.

Hydraulic clutches have eliminated free clutch release play. Meaning: on our trucks the throw-out bearing spins anytime the engine is running. The load is extremely light until the pedal is pushed, so it's still a good idea to avoid idling with the pedal pushed down. Pop into neutral at lights, and your bearing should outlast your clutch disc.

 

[Scratcher]

When you change the fork, take a look at the pivot ball, make sure it isn't worn and put some grease on it. Make your self a extension for a grease gun that will allow you to put a little grease on the transmission output sleeve right where it meets the TOB (see the pic? the wear grooves left of the splines is where you apply the grease, do this every oil change & you won't get this wear). It is possible that the spring in the slave cylinder is weak and won't align the TOB, in that case you'll have to replace the slave (easy to do, but a B*TCH to bleed the system after). Your symptoms don't sound like a TO bearing to me, so I would do all the aforementioned before I pulled the trans. again.

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Can't see the pic. Link doesn't work

 

[hesutton]

Very common on T19 rigs.

Mine's done it for literally 10 years on the F250. Every time I change the oil, I pull the slave and fork/boot. I reach into the opening in the bellhousing for the fork and work grease into the bearing as best as I can. It's done completely blind (no way to see in there) and it puts you in an uncomfortable position for a while. The squeak stops for about 500 miles (like yours), but always, always, always comes back.

You certainly can drop the trans and replace the TOB, but it will come back again.


Heath

 

[chris142]

I put a luk clutch kit in mine 18 mts ago. Ever since then it's had a T/o bearing rattle that squeaks occasionally.has not gotten any worse so I just live with it .it did not do that with the OE steel bearing in there.the aftermarket was a plastic like material

 

[MTKirk]

Very common on T19 rigs.

Mine's done it for literally 10 years on the F250. Every time I change the oil, I pull the slave and fork/boot. I reach into the opening in the bellhousing for the fork and work grease into the bearing as best as I can. It's done completely blind (no way to see in there) and it puts you in an uncomfortable position for a while. The squeak stops for about 500 miles (like yours), but always, always, always comes back.

You certainly can drop the trans and replace the TOB, but it will come back again.


Heath

Yes, but there is a cure!

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[Scratcher]

What exactly is the procedure for removing and replacing the clutch fork? I have a habit of turning a half hour job into a full days nightmare