T-Stat and Zero PSI cap for waterless coolant

[pybyr]

I should change my hoses and coolant when the weather gets warmer.

I sometimes think about the waterless coolant. From reading up on it, one of the benefits is that it allows a zero pressure cooling system- less odds of leaking.

To do that, they say to get a Zero PSI radiator cap.

Is that something that can be readily obtained from some normal source, or will it be a proprietary item with a high price.

Also, some of the information on the waterless coolant refers to being able to run a higher temperature thermostat (215) which apparently boosts MPG. Are those available through ordinary channels, or, again, is it a special item? Not entirely sure I'd go with the higher T-stat, as then my transmission cooler is suddenly sitting in higher-temperature surroundings (might need to go with a totally separate transmission cooler, and then this all starts adding up $$$). But I'd like to know whether the 215*F T-stat is readily available.

Thanks

 

[greg_a_morton]

interesting questions and I hope someone can chime in on them as I dont know. I do know that most air cooled diesels get better fuel economy due to them running closer to 300 degrees.

 

[MUDKICKR]

links for this system please

 

[Jake_IN]

I do know that most air cooled diesels get better fuel economy due to them running closer to 300 degrees.

Oh how I hated working on our old deutz Ok I cant complain to much it actually did its job real well. Actually it was my favorite irigator pump to work with cause there wasn't a radiator to deal with. There were just some things about those engines that i didn't like at all.

 

[dennis]

zero psi cap?
take a normal cap remove small rubber seal in very center. Actually about size of silver dollar. now your system will not pressurize but will still expand to expansion tank.

 

[greg_a_morton]

http://www.evanscooling.com/
goes over the idea of running engine fan less and at higher temps for fuel mileage.

 

[dyoung14]

I got a 205 thermostat in my psd

 

[ocnorb]

I've done a bunch of research on the Evans lately. Seen where a lot of guys have drilled a small hole in the radiator cap.

There is a good testimonial by a Honda Goldwing rider that had done a 4 year long term test and had nothing but good things to say about it. The diesel world seemed more mixed on the stuff.

My take away was that it would probably be good for a diesel with plenty of excess cooling capacity and iron heads.

The Evans does not shed heat as well as coolant, but it does protect from cavitation better due to its high boiling point. This means you may have to get used to running a bit hotter than normal. Some people worried about higher oil temps shortening the life of the oil.

The extra heat also seemed to be a culprit for diesels with aluminum heads. Supposedly the extra heat translates to greater expansion and contraction of the aluminum during thermal cycles and caused issues with blowing head gaskets more often.

 

[icanfixall]

There are no other thermostats for our engines. Only the 192 degree factory thermostat will work correctly... Others ahve used some aftermarket stats but they have been lucky... Thats the understanding here from many miles or run time. Evans waterless coolant is great stuff. My next build engine will have that from the get go. A dry system from the start. Hopefully I never need a water pump or a coolant changeout either...

 

[jonathan]

There are no other thermostats for our engines. Only the 192 degree factory thermostat will work correctly... Others ahve used some aftermarket stats but they have been lucky... Thats the understanding here from many miles or run time. Evans waterless coolant is great stuff. My next build engine will have that from the get go. A dry system from the start. Hopefully I never need a water pump or a coolant changeout either...

that stuff is like gold

 

[RLDSL]

Evans sells a zero pressure cap that will fit our radiators. For most European cars i have to do some fancy rigging to the caps , but the one Evans sells works great for our trucks and it's very reasonably priced and the way it is made it assures that coolant flows in and out of the overflow bottle properly.
Iwouldn't mess with a higher thermostat, just stick with the stock one.
I am wanting to get a Horton electric fan clutch for mine though so I can set it to come on later. I've been running the Evans in everything I own for a few years now and it's already saved three of my engines and as many family vacations. It's one thing that even my wife insists that I spend money on for the vehicles if that puts it in perspective.
Last trip the fan clutch folded on me and we made it halfway back across the country including crosing the rockies grossing over 18k with only an electric pusher fan. Temps got up to what would normally seem high, but with that stuff, won't hurt a thing. For road tractors they reccomend setting fan clutches to not even come on till 230 deg
It costs about $300 to fill one of these beasts with that stuff. Look at it as insurance, not an expense .

 

[RLDSL]

There are no other thermostats for our engines. Only the 192 degree factory thermostat will work correctly... Others ahve used some aftermarket stats but they have been lucky... Thats the understanding here from many miles or run time. Evans waterless coolant is great stuff. My next build engine will have that from the get go. A dry system from the start. Hopefully I never need a water pump or a coolant changeout either...

It's no big deal if you have to service a vehicle with the stuff in it, I do it all the time. You simply drain it into a clean container, then fold some cheesecloth or an old tshirt in the top of the funnel when pouring it back in and filter it to catch any debris picked up while draining it out

 

[greg_a_morton]

I am thinking of going this route but it sure would be bad to blow a hose or get a leak at $40 gallon. With my radiator that I will be using it only holds a little over 2 gallons and was wondering how much the engine will hold by it self? That shows to be one on the benefits to use a smaller radiator for a little higher temp.

 

[icanfixall]

My thoughts about running Evans is to install every hose new when doing this changeout. Then running a zero pressure cap will make all things come together... All new hoses.... Zreo pressure... why would a hoe burst... You have no pressure... Just heat in the cooling system. Any leak will be from something cutting a hose. Evens recomments you don't run a pressureized cooling system... But you can if you want to. Plenty of ideas on it either way.

 

[RLDSL]

I am thinking of going this route but it sure would be bad to blow a hose or get a leak at $40 gallon. With my radiator that I will be using it only holds a little over 2 gallons and was wondering how much the engine will hold by it self? That shows to be one on the benefits to use a smaller radiator for a little higher temp.

JUst how are you going to blow a hose running zero pressure system? I had a freeze plug on the back of the block walk out part way on me because of a crappy rebuild at a machine shop and of course it happened when we came out to the parking lot after a day of fun at Silver Dollar City in Branson , I look under the truck and see a trail of coolant. So I top it off and head to the nearest parts store, grab a bunch of sealer and dump it in and a bunch of jugs of no tox coolant just in case ( you can mix that stuff in , in a jam) and head back to the campground, hook up the 5er and head back over the Ozarks. We made it all the way home OK . After getting unhooked and before pulling it up in the drive to yank the engine, I decided to put a pressure cap on the thing to see what would have happened if that had been regular coolant in the thing, and it didn't even make it 5 minutes before it completely shot that plug out the back full speed I dont want to even think what that tow would have cost me. Like I said. Cheap insurance