We use a product from Jeffcool that is Propylene Glycol for one of our huge cooling belts. I have often wondered if this stuff is the same as the Evans coolant because I could get enough to fill my IDI for next to nothing 
T-Stat and Zero PSI cap for waterless coolant
- Thread starter pybyr
- Start date
We use a product from Jeffcool that is Propylene Glycol for one of our huge cooling belts. I have often wondered if this stuff is the same as the Evans coolant because I could get enough to fill my IDI for next to nothing
Movie popcorn butter is Propylene Glycol, and so is teh stuff they make you drink to make you crap your pants before going in for stomach surgery but I seriously doubt either one will behave the same way in your engine as Evans does. There are endless variations of propylene glycol , it's a base for all kinds of things, but they have done a few other things to it to make it what it is, but if you look at the ingredients for all of them, they all say teh same thing, propylene glycol.
RLDSL: Which Evans coolant do you use/recommend? Noticed that the refractometer isn't listed in the online shop -- Is it purchased elsewhere? Do you have any thoughts on getting the most water out of an IDI before replacing with Evans? Any other modifications? Thanks in advance!
pybyr
Full Access Member
The MSDS sheet put out by Evans says that its NPG+ is 66% Ethylene Glycol, then mostly Propylene Glycol, then <1 % water, and then a proprietary corrosion inhibitor at around 2%.
I came across some detail oriented discussions in another forum recently (can't find it now) where a fellow was going to blend 2 jugs regular Fleet Guard antifreeze (ethylene glycol) with 1 jug Sierra (propylene glycol) to arrive at his own close approximation of Evans NPG at much lower cost. I find the idea intriguing, although I know that some will predict dire consequences.
I came across some detail oriented discussions in another forum recently (can't find it now) where a fellow was going to blend 2 jugs regular Fleet Guard antifreeze (ethylene glycol) with 1 jug Sierra (propylene glycol) to arrive at his own close approximation of Evans NPG at much lower cost. I find the idea intriguing, although I know that some will predict dire consequences.
Last edited:
I use teh NPG+ in everything I own. No need for teh fancy tool just buy some extra, then , flush teh system with water with a prestone flush T installed to get all the old antifreeze out, then open up all the block and radiator drains, remove the lower hose, remove hoses from heater core, take shop air with a rubber tip blow gun regulated down to about 30psi so you don't pop anything and blow remaining water out of heater core and as many places as possible. then use a funnel and pour some evans in the heater core and blow out again. Do this a couple of times till you displace the remaining water in the heater core, there won't be much, then fill teh heater core so you don't have a burping problem later.be careful not to overfill and spill( have hoses atttached and fill through the hoses so you can lift them up) then pour some in the top of teh engine through the heater hose to where it comes out the block drains till it displaces all remaining water ( have someone watch, or have someone else pour while you watch., pour SLOW it doesn't take much.cap off teh block drains then do teh same at teh radiator ( if you have a suction gun suck it out through the lower hose hole first to save some )once all that water has been displaced you are ready to seal up the system
Evans tries to sell you their prep fluid, but you end up doing this anyway, only to get rid of teh prep fluid after using it first to chase the water out,if you are careful, you can skip that step, save $25 and just use some extra coolant you are going to need anyway You just end up sacrificing about a half jug of coolant during the prep stage, but that's better than buying a jug of the prep fluid , not using half of it, and STILL having to waste a half jug of coolant displacing teh prep fluid
and in case you are wondering, yes, you can tell the difference in the water and teh coolant coming out, it's real easy, so you don't wind up wasting a bunch.I believe it takes 2 full cases to switch one of these critters., about $300. But when you consider it doesn't need to be changed every year or so and your system will never , ever suffer internal rust again, and cavitation is no longer a worry, no more having to keep up with SCAs, and it's near impossible to boil over, the stuff starts looking downright cheep.
As far as the coolant you can buy it from a few dealers that sell it a few bucks cheaper than teh factory, but I've always found the factory to be faster and lately they've been sending these really nifty clip on pour spouts with each shipment that make it real easy to pour without spilling
they also have the zero pressure radiator caps which you won't find at the other dealers
