Stuck lifter help???

silverrex4

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Hey guys, i was trying to track down a annoying metal ticking. Working on 6.9 with factory ats turbo. Took off driver's side cover and took all rockers off and cleaned up and lightly smoothed any wear on the aluminum bridge. I had new push rods and threw them in and torqued everything back. Started it up and it definitely went away but still slight but huge improvement. Prob have to switch to 7.3 rockers soon. Went over to the passenger side and got the cover off. The rocker closeset to the firewall; took off, which were tight. When I went to put new rod back it, the rod drops to far in, it's like the lifter got stuck. It literally ran perfectly fine after I did the drivers side. U guys think lifter is shot or its just a stuck lifter. Any help would greatly appreciated before I start throwing parts at it.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Did you check to see if the push rod missed the lifter and slid off the side? The chance of a lifter collapsing all on it's own with the engine not running isn't very high.
 

silverrex4

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I will double check tomorrow, but usually they go in pretty easy. Would they pump oil if there off to the side?
 

silverrex4

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Well it looks like I'll be needing lifters. The one picture shows there is no retaining clip and square piece or follower that holds the rod up into correction position. Do you guys recommend any new lifter from rock auto? Can I reuse the valley pan? And going to just add updated rockers. Not looking forward to $600 parts list.
 

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Nero

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Can confirm you can reuse a V pan, just be careful taking it out.
 

IDIBRONCO

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That's one situation that I didn't foresee happening. I don't think it happens very often. For the Rock Auto lifters, I would use either the Melling or Sealed Power ones. Generally, you won't go wrong with names like those on our engine parts.
 

silverrex4

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Well guys it's confirmed, that one lifter was shot, I was able to use a magnet and get the retainer and clips, just worried about the flat spacer that is under the retainer but don't remember if I grabbed it, everythingwas coveredin oil. There were 3 others lifters ready to go. No idea!!! Valley pan looks good and not destroyed so thats money saving. Question on the water passage. There was clear silicone that filled the holes and some didn't, had coolant running like crazy lol. I fill those up again?
 

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IDIBRONCO

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Those are sealed by the valley pan on the 6.9s, but they have stainless plugs in them (and are different shaped too) on the 7.3s. On either engine, I use a thin coat of RTV on both the head and the intake side of the valley pan if I reuse one. From the factory, those have some type of gasket material on those places so I feel that the RTV will seal better than just putting the pan back on. Do what you want to with that information.
 

silverrex4

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Much appreciated budd, keep ya updated once it gets up and running again. Thanks again
 

Old Goat

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I noticed in your first picture, the Injector return line crosses over to the drivers side at the back of the engine next to or under the Turbo.

It would be safer to run it across in front of the air intake, say the second injector from the front.
Get a fuel leak, could have a fire.

Goat
 

silverrex4

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Thanks goat, that line was just out of the way, that is why it looks so long, I routed it in front of the intake. Appreciate it much for looking out. Parts are ordered and just prepping in the mean time. Gonna run thru head bolt torque, clean up intake, and prep everything and try and keep these trucks alive. They are plentiful but little by little there not as much as there use to be. thanks again
 

david85

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That's one I haven't seen before. Thanks for sharing. I have slight tick in my engine right now (at 1000-1500 RPM) but not sure if it's injectors or lifters. New injectors are going in so I'll find out for shortly.
 

Black dawg

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I have seen that a couple times, one time was in a big block chevy (actually same lifter) most all of them were like that. Was in a delivery type truck that was over revved on a big hill.
 

silverrex4

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Never know, first thought injectors, but took them apart and cleaned and shimmed to pop test them close to about 1950, still the same tick. Couldn't keep driving it knew wasn't good. Had to turn to the fourms. YouTube only goes so far. With price of parts today, have to really confirm. Do the injectors and see, if not go from there, timing I've seen doesn't give that type of tick, metal on metal is different sound. Are you getting any thump from the intake? I was getting here and there but would go away. Keep us posted after those injectors. As soon as my parts come in I'll update.
 
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