stock firewall support for the brake and clutch master

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,329
Reaction score
3,904
Location
commiefornia
calling all spelling ****'s! cough @sherwin johnson cough

so, im looking at my firewall today, and the outter support is pulling away from the firewall
someone put bolts through the cowl to try to strengthen it.

i have Jasons firewall reinforcement, but im thinking about making a plate for the outside as well.
i cut that area out of another truck i scrapped, but i think making a whole new plate is called for...

what do you think?
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

ironworker40

NYC Ironworker
Joined
Dec 16, 2013
Posts
939
Reaction score
19
Location
nj
I remember a discussion on this and someone was doing the same thing and it was determined that the plate had to be on the inside because you are trying to push the master off the firewall toward engine when you push down on clutch pedal. The plate on the outside was for looks. But I feel if it is bolted, or preferable welded, thru two plates and firewall it has to help. So I vote yes, do it.
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
Overkill, thy name is IDIoit.

The plate on the inside is taking all the load. As long as it's all bolted together solidly,I don't see any reason to add anything else. If it makes you feel better, weld it in.
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,329
Reaction score
3,904
Location
commiefornia
you can never have overkill in vehicles and firearms.. :D


i honestly dont like the looks of the outside of it.
and its sub par to me...

the way the outside support is spot welded and seam sealed:puke:
i have some 1/8" i can make a front plate, grind the old one off.
and fully weld it.

i also want to go through and weld up all of the random holes put there by previous owners.
i can also delete computer access, stock wiring connector hole. and antenna.
i have the heater box out, so.. why not?

better to do before paint lol
 

riotwarrior

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
483
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
Remove outside piece...clean it and either get structeral adhezive or weld it back i to place and seam seal it.

Add plate to inside per my write up with ..... you guessed it structural adhesive. And Bob's yer uncle


JM7.3CW
 

sjwelds

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Posts
1,391
Reaction score
313
Location
Central KS
Ack! Ack! I've been mentioned! The sky is falling! LOL yeah .030 and your POS Lincoln ;Poke ;Poke ;)LOL
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,329
Reaction score
3,904
Location
commiefornia
really glad i addressed this...
now i can fix rusted/broken spots, and reinforce, never having an issue in my lifetime again!
backed with Jasons piece, it will be mucho betorro!

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
I guess that's one way to solve the problem. You could, now that you have a template make one that would align the hydroboost to a standard brake pedal....

Weld it on and use it as a template to drill the holes to move the master down (or up can't remember). Just a random thought.

Nope scratch that. me being stupid. those are the bolts for the pedal box too right? Have to have two sets of bolts and that's plain silly.
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,329
Reaction score
3,904
Location
commiefornia
I guess that's one way to solve the problem. You could, now that you have a template make one that would align the hydroboost to a standard brake pedal....

Weld it on and use it as a template to drill the holes to move the master down (or up can't remember). Just a random thought.

Nope scratch that. me being stupid. those are the bolts for the pedal box too right? Have to have two sets of bolts and that's plain silly.


actually, that may be an option,
if the pedal is somewhere along the lines of 9/16" higher, the hydroboost should be also.
needing that dimension changed on the vacuum pedal to the hydro pedal.
i will have to mock stuff up tomorrow and see how that is,
i just may remake that plate.

tis is why i love this site. alot of great minds coming together.
giving so many options.
thanks man! ill post back tomorrow after a full day of wrenching.

M-T are my work/baby days, but i usually get an hour to work on her for lunch.
tomorrow, its all truck!
 

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
But aren't the bolts for the booster the same that go through the pedal box? Could weld studs on either side I guess.
 

IDIoit

MachinistFabricator
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Posts
13,329
Reaction score
3,904
Location
commiefornia
in my mind,
theres a reason the bolt together Fsuperdutyrequires a different pedal, now if that difference is the holes, or jist the pin, thats TBD.
but wouldnt it be great if it was just the pin?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,398
Posts
1,131,936
Members
24,217
Latest member
Vincent

Members online

Top