Starting issues-- 93' 7.3 IDI NA

[Idi93]

The truck will not crank without adding a starting fluid(I use about a 20oz bottle cap's worth of gas, since I've heard the horror stories with ether), but it will run all day(just drove it about 400 miles pulling a mazda b2200 on a trailer with no problems while running). My issue is that if you kill it and dont recrank within 5-10 seconds, it wont crank without the gas. I have since found the notorious return lines that are wet, so I assume that I've got some air intrusion, but shouldn't it take longer than that to lose the fuel? Anything else that I should look at?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

so the engine won't physically turn over unless you manually give it some starting fluid?

 

[justinray]

Most likely correct about the return line problem, go ahead and replace them since they are questionable, then see what happens.

 

[Idi93]

It will crank over, but wont fire up on just diesel, you have to add the gas everytime. And with the return line kit, that will be atleast a month from now, as I just moved. On that note, I now work at a ford dealership in parts and service, so if I can help anyone from that aspect, just let me know. Back on topic, is there anything else I can look at over the next month. I just got the truck back from a friend that dove it for almost a year, and I guess I should add that I didn't have any problems before he took it.

 

[Idi93]

Also, it will pull/push start very easily without adding anything. I'm beginning to think it may be a combination of return lines and a weak starter, because it doesn't sound like it's turning over very fast, and I have fully charged batteries. I'm guessing that he partially burnt up the starter.

 

[Wyreth]

Also look at your terminals and cables. Corrosion or bad connections can also cause this. However, it sounds like you've nailed it with the low cranking speed and air intrusion.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

could also be glow plugs.

 

[icanfixall]

Sounds like the starter has been overworked due to maybe another starting issue like burnt out glowplugs. Go to Ebay and find the DB starters. That seller has about the best low pried and quality starter going. Many here have gotten them and they have no complaints either. Thats saying lots for an ebay starter too. Gear reduction starter is what everyone uses these days. Our diesl starts because the piston compresses the air charge to as much as 530 lbs.. That compressing of the air heats it up because the piston usually is moving so fast. Quickly compressing the air charge creates heat. That heat must be at least 942 degree to ignite the diesel thats injected into this compressed hot air. If the starter can't quickly compress the air it wont get hot enough to ignite the fuel. Rolling to truck to bump start it really spins the engine fast. Then it ignites the fuel easily. I recommend fixing the starter and the return lines before your make more problems for yourself down the line. Starters do have a magic hidden box in them thats full of smoke. Sometimes that box opens up and all the smoke is let loose. You may see it rolling out from the hood to fender joints. Then the starter never works again..... You know thats just a funny message telling you the starter might be almost done because of your friend cranking it till it started. Any cranking longer than a 20 second time without a 2 minute rest to cool down usually burns them out...

 

[sassyrel]

It will crank over, but wont fire up on just diesel, you have to add the gas everytime. And with the return line kit, that will be atleast a month from now, as I just moved. On that note, I now work at a ford dealership in parts and service, so if I can help anyone from that aspect, just let me know. Back on topic, is there anything else I can look at over the next month. I just got the truck back from a friend that dove it for almost a year, and I guess I should add that I didn't have any problems before he took it.

HE DROVE IT,,FOR A YEAR???????????????????? i can see damages from him driving it,already....

 

[Idi93]

I'm leaning towards starter. Hooked up a multimeter to the main battery, before cranking it read 12.56V, after 3 seconds of cranking it was drawn down to 2.8V. I think it's pulling way too big of a draw.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

get you batteries load tested as well as starter tested.

 

[Agnem]

There seems to be a real rash of people using gasoline to start their trucks lately. When did that trend start? *shrugs* Pouring ANY amount of liquid in these engines is a REALLY REALLY BAD IDEA. And I don't care how many times you get away with it. The one time you don't is the one time you'll be sorry.

 

[Greg5OH]

Also look at your terminals and cables. Corrosion or bad connections can also cause this. However, it sounds like you've nailed it with the low cranking speed and air intrusion.

change yer cables!! my brand new mitsu starter started slowing down within a few months of me putting it in. my batteries were fine, everything "seemed" fine. I cleaned the terminals on thebattery and it went a lil faster-i knew then it was the cables fault. i tossed all old cables out, ran two 1/0 cable to the starter, 2/0 from block to frame and 1/0 everywhere else. cranks stupid fast now, once new GPS are in it will start within 2 rotations for sure.

my main ground cables APPEARED fine on the ends (a little graying tarnish but no green) but when i started bending it i exposedthe cracks along everywhere and it was green throughout. I actually fried the 14 awg ground cable from voltage regulator to battery ground because the main grounds were so bad, when i went to crank one day that was the path of least resistance.

change them cables before you fry your starter! all of those cables were about 75 bucks, another 20 for all the cable lugs. I also changed the battery clamps to ones with posts on them. the clamp on style for main battery cable just isnt a good idea as moisture gets in there and prevents a good contact. You can even put lugs on the cable and then put em under one or both of the screws that hold that clamp cover on

 

[icanfixall]

As Mel has posted above. Pouring any kind of fuel into the intake can someday cause your engine to run-a-way on you. These engines are controlled by the injection pump by the amount of fuel they allow to reach the cylinders. Any fuel poured into the intake bypass to injection pump and the fuel govener control. then you create a run a way condition where no amount of turning of the ignition or cuttin off the fuel supply will shut it down. Only placeing something over the intake killing the air flow to the engine will stop the run away. Be your own judge and most of all ... Know whats going on before something blows up because the rpm went way past the redline....