SOMTHINGS WRONG!!!!

[benton]

i was on my way to work today and i noticed my amp gauge was bouncing like crazy on the high side and my idiot battey light was blinking also! could this be the alternator, regulator, or batterys i want to get what ever it is fixed soon so it dont leave me broke down on the side of I-80. does any body know what it could be?

 

[benton]

just went out now and took it up the road it wasnt doing it going up but when i stopped and turned around it started bouncing again!

 

[BlueOvalBud]

I would start by cleaning and making sure all your connections are clean....those suckers can cost you a pretty penny when you buy all new electrical parts only to find out the connection was corroded...I wouldn't know anything about that!

 

[johneich]

Try a volt meter on a set of battery terminals with engine off and with engine on, you should have about 12-13 volts with engine off and 13-14 with engine on.

 

[benton]

sadly i dont have a volt meter and i cleaned the terminals up and started it up and drove it. its still doing the same thing!!!

 

[GenLightening]

Check all the grounds, on the engine block and frame.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Benton,
The amp meter needle bouncing up and down sounds like classic voltage regulator end-of-life spasms.. Also the cheapest and easiest thing to start with. You really ought to get yourself an inexpensive multi meter though, they come in real handy for all kinds of stuff.

 

[benton]

im going to pick one up tomarrow when i get the regulator. ive been meaning to get a multimeter but just havent. thanks for the help

 

[Kevin 007]

What is your idle set at? When I swaped out my IP the idle was really low when I first started it, and whenever I applied the brake (lights), or turned on the lights or swithced on the fan or anything with an electrical draw; the gauge would do this. I think the Alt. was not spinning fast enought at the low idle to keep up with demands.
Raised the idle to 650 and has not done it since!

 

[benton]

it does it a high rpms also. i was doing 65 to 70 mph coming home and the rpms where at about 2100 to 2300 and it was still bouncing but no idiot light blinking and it idles at about 750 i think

 

[Kevin 007]

Then I would replace the voltage regulator, very easy to do, just plug and play!

Here in Canada they are over $50 but im sure you can get em cheaper where you are from!

 

[Jake_IN]

Pull your alternator and take it to a parts store that can test it. My truck did the exact same thing, i replaced the voltage regulator and that didn't fix it. Took in my alternator and it tested bad. Slapped a new one in and hey presto the needle stayed still. I still suggest replacing the voltage regulator though if you replace your alternator.

 

[typ4]

Brushes are worn out in the alternator, or the stator connections are coming unsoldered at the diode plate. Could be the regulator, or anything between the batteries and alt.

 

[Agnem]

I would urge you not to start replacing parts! Electrical problems are not an area where guesswork works best. TROUBLESHOOT the problem, using established proceedures that are well documented in MANY places. The charging system on your diesel is not special, and is the same as most any other Ford of that era, as well as many other makes of cars and trucks. You NEED to buy a volt/ohm meter. NOT PARTS. At least not right yet.

 

[icanfixall]

Wow..... The last two posting hit the nail on the head.. Truer works were never spoken here about electrical issues. My favorite mom & pop starter and alternater shop once told me never change the ford alternater without changing the regulater too... And something else interesting.... Kill the battery power to the system before you try to replace either of these two items. That way you will not get a voltage surge going thru the new parts. I replaced two regulaters on my truck thru them before they told me that one. Remove the battery power.... Installed the regulater... Reconnected the batteries... No problems... I guess it works....