I heard engine oil or ATF, but that it isn’t too picky… I think that it doesn’t vent as well as some things, so gear oil might not be the best
So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
DrCharles
Full Access Member
I didn't even know my vacuum pump HAD changeable oil 
the one on the truck when I got it was squeaking so I got a new one...
I put very few miles annually on it, how many miles on each oil change?
the one on the truck when I got it was squeaking so I got a new one...I put very few miles annually on it, how many miles on each oil change?
Well I think it’s just an annual thing but if you do it every two years I don’t think it will hurt… but I see no reason not to do it every year, it only takes 15 minutesI didn't even know my vacuum pump HAD changeable oil
I put very few miles annually on it, how many miles on each oil change?
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Seems like I read in a thread about it several years ago. Though I have never done it.
I have had the truck almost 10 years now, and replaced the Pump several years ago when it quick sucking.
I wonder if the China Pumps are shy on lube when new is why there seems to be a rash of short lived Pumps?
I have 2 out in the shop that I dragged home from PNP that had great suction, I dig them out and take a gander at them to see exactly where this plug is.
Goat
I have had the truck almost 10 years now, and replaced the Pump several years ago when it quick sucking.
I wonder if the China Pumps are shy on lube when new is why there seems to be a rash of short lived Pumps?
I have 2 out in the shop that I dragged home from PNP that had great suction, I dig them out and take a gander at them to see exactly where this plug is.
Goat
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I think so. That would certainly explain it.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Make a write-up if you do!
scott westley
Registered User
Finally got around to doing my truck project,got laid off so perfect time.pulled out a 460 A/T.
1986 6.9 studded going in, low mile pump turned all the way up.ATS Aurora 2000 turbo kit, 3 inch D/P
3.5 exhaust 8 inch long sprint car muffler,no packing in it.Zf 5speed with gasser gears in it,better ratio.
stock injectors popped at 1900 psi.nozzles were great, took apart other injectors for shims.
will be intercooled also. 1997 cc short box
1986 6.9 studded going in, low mile pump turned all the way up.ATS Aurora 2000 turbo kit, 3 inch D/P
3.5 exhaust 8 inch long sprint car muffler,no packing in it.Zf 5speed with gasser gears in it,better ratio.
stock injectors popped at 1900 psi.nozzles were great, took apart other injectors for shims.
will be intercooled also. 1997 cc short box
Attachments
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Probably a good 3 years ago, the plastic handle for the Hood Release broke off. So I have been using a pair of Channel Lock Plyers to grab ahold of the end piece to pop the Hood.
Finally getting tired of doing it.
About a month ago I bought a new Hood Cable from Bronco Grave Yard,
Dove in yesterday and finally got the new one in.
Open Hood and remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the hood latch, remove the 8mm bolt and remove the plate so you can take off the loop in the end of the cable over a pin/anchor, kind of like a Nail Head.
Under the dash behind the Peddles in the corner of FW and side wall is the big Grommet. Grab it with a pair of Plyers and pull it out.
Remove the 2 Bolts that secure the Handle to the under side of the Dash.
Not sure what the original fasteners were, mine had one 1/4" Bolt threaded into the hole.
Where the Cable bends around from the Battery to across the front to the Latch, and (probably when new) 3 little plastic hold down thingies that push into a small hole to secure the cable. I only had one left and carefully with a Needle Nose squeezed it to remove form the hole, and it broke into 2 pieces. Now going to do the Google search to see what`s out there. Was able to use a Zip Tie on one hole.
Next is to pull the Cable out from under the Dash.
Fish the new Cable in from under the Dash, use some Silicone spray on the Rubber Grommet. under the hood, pull rubber through FW hole.
Snake Cable around how you want it over to the Latch. Place the end Loop over the nail head thing, push the little Grommet thing into the curved metal piece, place the metal Cover on and secure with the 8mm Bolt.
Secure the 2 10mm Bolts and all good.
Had to fish around in my can of nuts and bolts to find another 1/4", 3 more washers and 2 Nylock Nuts.
Pushed the Bolts with a washer through the plastic handle piece up into the dash, Now laying on the floor getting your Arm/Hand around the Peddles get the Washers and Nuts on w/o dropping them several times.
Need 3 "U" Joints on my Arm.
With 7/16" Gear wrench on the top side and a 11mm (or 7/16") 11 was was close to me, tighten them down. It`s never coming off.
OH one little step, is now getting lined up with the hole in the Hood so it will latch securely shut. That`s where Iam now, had to finally quit last night it got so cold my fingers hurt.
Today Church so back on it tomorrow.
While I had the latch off stuck it into a pan of Wax and Grease remover to get the 38 years of dirt grease and etc... off. Blew it all out with Carb Cleaner, and a shot of Black Paint to pretty it up.
new Cable won`t lay down like the old 38 yr old one as it was curled up in a bag. in time it will along with some massaging.
Edit:
Found this picture of the Latch area
from CL thread..
Bolts on either side secure it.
Left Bolt it rotates on it.
Right one is up and down adjustment.
Also has some sideways movement.
Goat
Finally getting tired of doing it.
About a month ago I bought a new Hood Cable from Bronco Grave Yard,
Dove in yesterday and finally got the new one in.
Open Hood and remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the hood latch, remove the 8mm bolt and remove the plate so you can take off the loop in the end of the cable over a pin/anchor, kind of like a Nail Head.
Under the dash behind the Peddles in the corner of FW and side wall is the big Grommet. Grab it with a pair of Plyers and pull it out.
Remove the 2 Bolts that secure the Handle to the under side of the Dash.
Not sure what the original fasteners were, mine had one 1/4" Bolt threaded into the hole.
Where the Cable bends around from the Battery to across the front to the Latch, and (probably when new) 3 little plastic hold down thingies that push into a small hole to secure the cable. I only had one left and carefully with a Needle Nose squeezed it to remove form the hole, and it broke into 2 pieces. Now going to do the Google search to see what`s out there. Was able to use a Zip Tie on one hole.
Next is to pull the Cable out from under the Dash.
Fish the new Cable in from under the Dash, use some Silicone spray on the Rubber Grommet. under the hood, pull rubber through FW hole.
Snake Cable around how you want it over to the Latch. Place the end Loop over the nail head thing, push the little Grommet thing into the curved metal piece, place the metal Cover on and secure with the 8mm Bolt.
Secure the 2 10mm Bolts and all good.
Had to fish around in my can of nuts and bolts to find another 1/4", 3 more washers and 2 Nylock Nuts.
Pushed the Bolts with a washer through the plastic handle piece up into the dash, Now laying on the floor getting your Arm/Hand around the Peddles get the Washers and Nuts on w/o dropping them several times.
Need 3 "U" Joints on my Arm.
With 7/16" Gear wrench on the top side and a 11mm (or 7/16") 11 was was close to me, tighten them down. It`s never coming off.
OH one little step, is now getting lined up with the hole in the Hood so it will latch securely shut. That`s where Iam now, had to finally quit last night it got so cold my fingers hurt.
Today Church so back on it tomorrow.
While I had the latch off stuck it into a pan of Wax and Grease remover to get the 38 years of dirt grease and etc... off. Blew it all out with Carb Cleaner, and a shot of Black Paint to pretty it up.
new Cable won`t lay down like the old 38 yr old one as it was curled up in a bag. in time it will along with some massaging.
Edit:
Found this picture of the Latch area
from CL thread..
You must be registered for see images attach
Bolts on either side secure it.
Left Bolt it rotates on it.
Right one is up and down adjustment.
Also has some sideways movement.
Goat
Last edited:
Not certain if it was coincidence or not however just recently replaced injectors and within couple days two glow plugs died. Replaced them and so far so good. The "ticking" noise is still there. I know there's an exhaust leak in that goofy slip joint on the ATS turbo up pipe. Guess I'll tackle that next. Does anyone offer an upgrade or new old stock to fix?
You must be registered for see images attach
Since my truck’s body is kinda rough, doing this doesn’t bother me.
Kills:
2 Mitsu starters
3 Denso starters
1 6.9 head gasket
23 cans of ether
Later I added 4 batteries to the kill board
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I think it's kind of cool.
@IDIoit makes a banger of an up pipe that does away with the slip. I have one. Best purchase ever.
Thanks
new up pipes?
I'm sorry. Every time I see the title of this thread, I think someone named Carolyn McCarthy is in here talking about banning "the pipe thing that goes up"... ;)
www.oilburners.net
factory/093 up pipes.
anyone have a factory turbo or the 093 ATS with a leaky up pipe? ive got the fix for you! unfortunately, in order for me to build one of these for you, i would need your lower Y they are made to order! $700 shipped back to you. made from 304SS
www.oilburners.net
