so now haw am I supposed to get the dam stearing wheel off

[Thatguy]

What about a 3 ton 3 jaw gear puller big enough to grab the outside of the center of the wheel?

 

[Agnem]

I don't recommend it, but I've seen more than one "professional" just grab the wheel and twist and bend and pull it off like the animal that he was.

 

[Brimmstone]

I would just drill them out and rethread the holes. The material is not that hard and most pullers use a grade 5 i.e. soft bolt. Use a good cobalt drill bit and it will go through it like it was made of butter. If you were closer we would have it off inside of five minutes.

 

[Boston]

Ok the penetrating oil, nut, hammer and knees trick worked like a charm

got it stripped down to the problem piece and I'll go pick one up in the morning.

 

[92F350CC]

Well, since everybody is posting tools.
I think this would be the fastest way

You must be registered for see images

 

[gunz]

Glad it worked out for ya, You dont need no stinkin puller.

 

[Arborigine]

i nuse the type of reverse drill that Riotwarrior showed often, they are probably the easiest to get centered that are made. Not cheap, and got to have a slow drill. I have not yet had the easy-out portion work for me, don't want to bust the tool. They usually come out without needing an easy-out when using the reverse drill.
I don't understand why American cars have the wheel on so tight, euro cars just remove the nut or bolt and the wheel comes right off in your hands.

 

[riotwarrior]

Might I suggest getting a different wheel or stickin yers on a drill press drill out those efn bolts and retap? Just saying is all...

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I have not yet had the easy-out portion work for me

In all my years of dealing with broken fittings and such, I have never had an "easy-out" to accomplish anything but to make matters worse.

Usually, the brittle-hard easy-out snaps off in the carefully-drilled hole and nothing short of acid is going to get it out.

The tapered wedge shape of an easy-out actually spreads whatever one is trying to remove, thus wedging it even tighter.

I have probably a hundred various sized easy-outs and I only keep them around to remind me why not to be tempted to use them.

 

[Boston]

there's a couple of cylindrical objects at the 3 and 9 oclock position that are black, have holes drilled in them and those holes are threaded. how do you get them out so as to be able to install the ignition actuator slide thing ?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

there's a couple of cylindrical objects at the 3 and 9 oclock position that are black, have holes drilled in them and those holes are threaded. how do you get them out so as to be able to install the ignition actuator slide thing ?

If I understand what you are meaning, those are the tilt pins.

They are internally threaded 8-32.

You are supposed to screw an 8-32 machine-screw in as far as it will thread, grasp the screw with pliers, and wiggle those pins out.

The process is pictured in that Bronco write-up, except the guy did not know to use an 8-32 and used a sheet-metal screw instead.

 

[Boston]

ah

thanks I'll give it a try

my steering wheel isn't a tilt though, strange that it should have an object called a tilt pin in it.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

ah

thanks I'll give it a try

my steering wheel isn't a tilt though, strange that it should have an object called a tilt pin in it.

What makes you think it isn't a tilt-column ??


If it has that pot-metal ignition actuator rod, it has to be a tilt-column, as my understanding is the non-tilt columns don't have such non-sense.

Push your turn-signal lever forward and you might get a surprise when the column dis-engages and moves.

Then again, I could be wrong; I was once before several years ago.

 

[Boston]

well that would be a surprise now wouldn't it

no clue I've always been kinda careful of that thing, its kinda spindly looking and I'd have thought pushing on it would just snap it off. Never tried it.