So, i got into an accident today...

Koch13351

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Hubs didn't get warm at all on the drive home. So bearings aren't destroyed, but they will be getting done either way
 

dunk

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Definitely check TTB brackets and axle. Bushings probably need replaced at least. Is camber is off something is bent or ball joints are damaged. Could be spindle too. Check frame close for cracks around that steering box.

Not sure what 80-86 IDI 4wd trucks go for out west but they are few and far between here. Expect to drive 500+ miles and pay $4k-$5k for a decent truck that doesn't have a totally rotted out cab but still needs rust repair and fixing various BS. I'd guess out west less since less have been scrapped from rust. You don't have to accept whatever pittance they say it's worth, you know the real value in your region and don't accept a penny less. They'll say some BS like it's a 30 year old truck, irrelevant at worst and at best that makes it collectible/antique or otherwise more valuable. I've always driven 30 year old vehicles and been a victim of at fault people crashing into them several times. Sometimes insurance companies are entirely reasonable and will find equivalent vehicles for sale, adjust for any lower value of what they found as per what you point out (smaller engine, less desirable year, etc.) and throw in transport costs to pick it up or have it delivered. Other times they say your rare, classic, desireable and expensive to replace (if at all possible) vehicle is worth nothing because it's 50 years old. Stand your ground, lawyer up if need be.

You just want market rate for replacement parts and labor to fix your truck, or to keep the truck at an agreeable salvage value and be paid market replacement value for your truck in the condition it was in. Around here that's $4k-$5k, plus another grand or two worth of fixing 30 years of neglect if you've had it long enough to fix all that neglect. Your truck probably does not have anywhere near that amount of damage. Lawyer up if they aren't being reasonable, but give them a chance first to make you whole. Don't sign any release or cash any check until you are completely satisfied.
 

Koch13351

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Steering box mounting area on the frame was fine. The bolts I removed from the old box were fine (didn't get stressed). I looked at the spring perch and pivot areas of the TTB, from every angle possible. Everything looks ok. I don't see any stress cracks or area where something may have shifted. All my grime is still intact ;)

I spoke to both insurance companies today and now I'm just waiting for them to come inspect my truck and evidently decide who was at fault. I also mentioned to both companies that it occurred right in front of a gas station so their pump surveillance might have seen the whole thing. They seemed awfully baffled that they only hit me in the wheel and it totaled their car and mine has no body damage. Id take that over the potential headache I have in front of me dealing with the TTB. Hopefully this all goes smoothly and I don't have to take action with a lawyer.
 

riotwarrior

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Glad qll seems well...

Driving home tonight up hill dark rainy hill...deer pops out hit brakes slowed down...k accelerate and wham another lil bastion jumped out...bam goes big bumper on pass side bam bam...as I hit the squishy speed bump..
Left hair under truck...no damage I could see..checked right away when could pull over safely.

Lady turns in...u hit deer ...u bet....asks am I ok...hell ya just making sure my steerjng and brakes ok....any damage ...i shine flashlight on bumper said nope...she laughs...

Lucky I hqve the 60 in the ttb and stock tin bumper would fold like bad toilet paper
 

Koch13351

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So heres an update:
Their insurance company came to my house to appraise my trucks value, and then he is going to get a quote for a total front end rebuild, every component, hub to hub, including new tires and rims. If that exceeds the value of my truck (which it probably will since I told him the axle might be bent too) then they are going to total it and give me a check for the difference in salvage value and fair market value. So either way, im keeping my truck. I can live with a salvage title since I don't intend on selling it (only upgrading it). And my fingers are crossed that they'll be fair on the value side of things so I don't have to throw a fit again :backoff that way I can start the search for D60 swap stuff :sly
 

Koch13351

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Not sure how they are going to figure it. He had a laptop and punched in my vin which gives every detail of the truck, and took a bunch of pictures.
 

93banksidi

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Start looking around at trucks for sale around the same years and options, find a number that you would be willing to settle for and hold to it. My truck got rear ended on July 1st this year while my dad was driving, and we just got settled out two weeks ago. Their insurance was persistent that my truck was only worth $3000 between the miles and rust damage on the cab. After producing 15 for sale ads of 92-94 4x4 diesels between the prices of $5000 & $9000, we got a check for $5250 after buyback. We did have to get a lawyer to receive a number I thought was fair. Find a number you'd be happy with, and stick to it
 
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dunk

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Yes, get your ducks in a row with any listings you can find for sale of CL and locally as well as ebay sold listings. For IDI trucks similar to yours. I would include all 83-97 of same cab and wheelbase both F-250 and F-350. Exclude outliers like a lower prices slushbox truck if yours is manual, or a top dollar D60 truck since yours have a D50, or just heaps of crap worth barely more than scrap. Adjust the mean and median price as needed for any significant work you've done in the past year or two. You should have receipts for everything you ever did to the truck and point out in all likelihood whatever similar truck you bought would need all of that done (brakes, brake lines, all suspension and body bushings, oil leaks, turbo, etc...).

Don't accept the BS they'll try to push when they tell you you're very nicely done classic diesel pickup is worth what a rusted out, beat to hell, falling apart POS like the scrappers tool around in. They'll call their delusionally low made up number "fair market value" but you'll quickly understand it in no way represents the actual sale prices of similar vehicles and is nowhere near the cost to make you financially whole with a more or less identical truck in the same or better condition. Stand your ground on whatever dollar amount will make you whole, for them an under $10k truck (maybe yours is around $4k, don't know, but they'll offer you less) is a relatively minor amount to spend to make you whole and go away.
 

Koch13351

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well they told me my truck is a 'total loss', aka totaled. found where theres a slight bulge/bend in the chunk side of my TTB housing, hence the messed up camber. im keeping the truck, title is going to be a salvage :rolleyes: but im ok with that. they are sending me out a check for $3500 after buyback. so im on the lookout for a drivers side TTB housing. Probly just going to get it from the pivot out, minus the dropout, just to be safe. so new knuckle, spindle etc. then going to rebuild it hub to hub, steering and all. may as well since itll all be out for the lift install. already got my American racing outlaw 2 16.5s today :sly
scratched the D60 swap since its just not practical at the moment
 

jhenegh

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I would never throw that much money at a D50. You'll have it 1/2 out anyway, take it all out and pit one solid piece back in! If you're gonna have to search for used axle parts, search for a used 60
 

Waystro

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There's always F-350's on craiglist there usually gas truck pick on up for $1500 then get your axle and part out or scrap and get some of your money back.
 

laserjock

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If it bent the housing, you got hit hard enough that you really may want to have it put on a frame machine and at least checked. Taking a hit on a corner like that can wrack the frame and cause all sorts of problems that may not manifest for a while.
 
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