SLEEVING THE BLOCK - DO ALL EIGHT?

[THECACKLER]

I need some advise. I need to sleeve at least one cylinder in a 94 IDIT block to repair damage from a burnt piston. I do not know the history of this block so I am thinking of sleeving all eight. I spoke to a Machinist today and he thought that installing sleeves all 8 cylinders would weaken the block. He did not seem to know about cavitation. I need my truck to be a dependable puller. That's why I chose an IDI. Can anybody with first hand experience or knowledge on this subject offer me any guidance?

 

[Diesel JD]

I do not have personal experience but if I were you, I would not let that machinist sleeve it. Dry sleeves are expensive and you really need to have a guy who's done a lot of them, preferably a lot of cavitated 7.3s and wore out 3208 Cats. I would talk to Gary(Icanfixall) or Old Mister Bill. Those guys have successfully had blocks sleeved. I have the book knowledge that you must know your stuff to do that right but not the real world experience you ask and I have no machine skills so I should not comment on it from the machinist side, but as an IDI guy I'd be worried about giving this guy my block. I bet he doesn't do many diesels and even fewer dry sleeves.

 

[starmilt]

X2 I am not a fan of dry sleeves, so I would say find someone with the best experiance on the 7.3s that you can find even if it means shipping it somewhere.

 

[icanfixall]

This "machinst" may know something but does not appear to know anything about these blocks nor sleeving. Find someone else for this job. these blocks can very easily handle sleeving al 8 cylinders without weakening them but... Done wrong will ruin the block. There must be a step left at the bottom of the cylinder so the new sleeve doesn't slip down into the spinning crank. That step must be about 3/8th inch. Then the sleeve is oversized about 2 thousands and cooled in liquid nitrogen. Then drop it in the block and hold it in place with some threaded stock and a strongback of any type. Even one made from 1/2x2 inch strap steel will work. Leave it held in place till the sleeve normalizes with the block. All the cylinders can be done at the same time if you have enough threaded stock and strongbacks. L.A. Sleeve has about the best sleeves or Dart has a great sleeve too. Use the hard material. Its a high nickle material and machines very slow so don't be in a hurry cause the cutting bit will chatter and cause a bad cut. The Dart sleeves have a flange on the top that is better but more difficult to machine and install in the blocks. I feel its the best type of sleeve. It can't slip down in the block because it sets on the block flange and the head holds it inplace.....

 

[hesutton]

If done correctly by the machine shop.........the ideal solution would be to sleeve all 8 holes with some some good sleeves. Melling also makes some good sleeves and they have two options and the CSL2274HP sleeves are supposed to be the heavy-duty sleeves. They are listed on page #5 of their catalog or page #11 of the PDF. They are 4.110 Bore and 6-7/8in long. The 6.9 sleeves are CSL237 (4.000 and 6-7/8in long) if I'm reading the catalog correctly.

CLICK HERE for the catalog. They have installation instructions at the begining of the catalog as well.

Having said that, I bored my engine 20 over when rebuilding, but I didn't know of the issuses with cavitation or I would have done the above. I keep my DCA4 up to ***** and I'm crossing my fingers that the block will not cavitate.

Heath

 

[THECACKLER]

ICANFIXALL.... Thanks. I have never had a block sleeved before. I either dealt with replaceable liners or scrapped the block if it was trashed. The machinist I have done the most business with here has gone out of business. I went to this other one because he was close and I have been running numerous sets of IDI heads to him for magna-fluxing. Basically he's a high end small block chevy kind of shop. Gas stuff.
Anyways, I have however found a very reputable one today, partially through my own research and partly through your lead on LA Sleeve. This shop "American Engine & Grinding" in downtown Houston, does diesel ship engines amongst others. A Certified Diesel Mechanic recommended them to me. When I followed up on your lead to LA Sleeve, I asked Dave for recommendations here in the area and he offered the same Machinist. So thanks. The LA Sleeves at $569 for cast are just a little pricey for me right now. The machinist recommended Melling.

HESUTTON.... Thanks so much for the Melling Catalog. That's the brand that Northern Auto Parts carries and as I just mentioned, the machinist also recommended. When I asked 1/8" or 3/32" thickness, he recommended the 3/32" so that's what I'll do, unless there's a reason to go thicker. So in the morning I'll order Eight CSL1174HP sleeves, and a set of Mahle 144181HAWR turbo pistons. Thanks again.

 

[hesutton]

Cool man. I'd be interested in how much they are and how it all turns out. Like I said, I've got a 20 over 7.3 IDI under my hood. That might not be an issue as I've got a DT466 that is going to find a home in either my current DD (the one with the above 7.3 IDI) or a '91 F350 gasser parts truck.

Heath

 

[THECACKLER]

HESUTTON... I ordered the Melling CSL1174HP's this morning. Northern Auto parts price was $26 something per sleeve. The problem was that they were a non-stock item and in short supply. I called Melling's Customer Service and was able to locate 7 in Dallas and 1 in Iowa and am having them shipped to NAP then to me. The cost for installing them is about $620 so it comes to about $850 to do all eight sleeves. Both the Machinist and Melling recommended the thinner 3/32" sleeves to clean up the bores and to only use the 1/8" to repair a cracked bore. The reason is that as you go larger with the sleeve you compromise the block strength. I ordered the heavy duty or higher strength sleeves due to the higher nickel chromium graphite (etc.) content of the G4000 alloy they use in the HP sleeves. My belief is that it is closer in composition to the IDI block material, but that's just a guess. From my experience Truck blocks typically have a higher nickel composition.
Thanks again Bro'...