Shut off solenoid

Billyisgr8

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So when the shut off solenoid is sticking, could one of the causes be that there is not enough lubrication in the fuel? I havn't ran any WMO yet ( just filtered my first gallon the other day) but have been running the #2 diesel with low sulpher in it which is all we have up here. This is a newer pump unit on the truck 10 months old and I would have thought it would last longer than it has. Just curious if the fuel is doing the lubricating or not, as I never have had one apart. If it is then I will get to using my WMO right away to help with the sticking problem.
 

tractorman86

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are you sure your problem isn't the connection? get a test light on it while someone actuates the key. maybe you just need a new soleniod, IIRC you can get one from Pensacola diesel for like 30-40 bucks.
 

Billyisgr8

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Nope havn't put a test light on it yet. This problem has been so random. Go 2 weeks and no problems, then 3 days in a row once a day it doesn't start, then go for another week or 2 with no problem. It has been doing this since Sept-Oct. Can't put a finger on when it is going to happen, just that when it does, it definitly has no fuel when turning over. But then turn the key off, and on once or twice and it fires right up as though nothing has happened.
 

tractorman86

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well just carry a test light with you and when it happens again check it out. definately sounds like an electric problem to me.
 

Agnem

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Keep in mind that the solenoid overcomes spring presure. So when the solenoid is off, it is up to the spring to pull the govenor assembly back to the limit of its travel, which in turn rotates the metering valve, cutting off all fuel. If the metering valve has a blockage, or the mechanism is bound up, or the spring is weak, any of these might result in a non-shutdown. I'd suggest pulling the top cover off of the IP and looking for stuff in there. You can check the operation of the solenoid, and the govenor/metering valve easily. Most importantly, you can look and see if you have any chunks of plastic floating around in there that may be blocking anything. A partially disintegrated solenoid can contribute these parts, as can the govenor mechanism. Info on this proceedure can be found in the tech article Here.
 

Agnem

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Oops. The fact that he was saying it wouldn't start wasn't appearant in his first post, but reading through the thread I see that is the case. A weak solenoid could certainly fail to allow the truck to start, as would a low voltage to the solenoid. It could even be related to temperature. All Moose Pump's are tested down to 7 volts, so I know it takes a pretty low voltage to fail.
 

tractorman86

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wow so you could have dead batteries(only holding 7v) and loose the alternator and still get where ever you are going, now that is dependable!!!
 

Agnem

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Been there. Done that. Lost an alternator coming back from a 2 hour trip at night on a Sunday. Headlights and heat were sucking the batteries down fast. Started driving with the lights off (very dangerous - don't recommend it), turning them on only when other vehicles were in range. Kept pushing for home. No stores or help were within range. It eventually got to the point where the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, with all the bulbs dim, and barely visible. I knew then, that I was going to have to ditch the truck. I had a hotel in mind, so it was a race against time. Speed doesn't affect the battery consumption on our trucks, so I was doing 70 under a new moon, on a 2 lane highway (rt. 322 up near Halifax, for you PA types that know the area) with no street lights and no illimunation of any kind. I was afraid to use the brake for fear that the brake lights would kill the remaining millivolts that I must have been running on. I used the parking brake to slow for the turn into the hotel. After securing a room, I put my foot on the service brake. Sure enough, it shut down cold. I cycled the key. No injection pump click. The solenoid had been held in place by a voltage so low I can only estimate it to be in the below 3 volt range. Not near enough to suck the plunger in or overcome the spring, but enough to hold it in place. I explained to my boys how a knowledge of electricity, batteries, power consumption and a complete knowledge of the truck allowed them to be comfortably ensconced in a nice warm bed, instead of walking along a dark road late at night in search of safety and a place to rest. Knowledge is power! They could clearly see what seperates us from "average people" who would have broke down many minutes before and would be sitting there waiting for triple A. Waiting for somebody who is not an "average person" to come and rescue them. The IP is in fact the LAST thing electrically that will stop working on your truck! By design, or unintentionally, it is genious. If you had to, I think you could string together a few flashlight batteries to keep it going. Not having a manual tranny though, really sucks in these kinds of situations. No drift start capability. The hotel, as luck would have it, was right next to a full service gas station, that stocked batteries. I bought 1 new one, fully charged, to make it home on. In daylight, I had plenty of juice for the one hour trip.
 

Billyisgr8

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OK, test light confirmed that there was power to the solenoid, and it was clicking still when it woudn't start, but still went on cranking before firing..it did this 2 times in a row....a few hours apart, and I figured that each time it did this it seemed to take the same amount of cranking time before firing......hmmmm it got me thinking. Then next day we got stuck in a snow storm and had to spend the night without plugging in the truck in -14 weather......the next morning once the truck finaly started, I could see all the extra smoke from a leaking injector...ahaaa...then the light bulb came on...leaking injectors. I had a full set of 8 here allready which I was planning on replacing in the fall, but ran out of time, so I took the time yesterday and replaced all 8. I found 3 wet injector tips, and 1 not working glow plug. It now fires right up just like the good ole days, and I'm happy again. Thanks for the words of wisdom regarding the solenoid, when that finally goes I know what to look for.
 

Billyisgr8

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Follow up to what I thougth had cured my problem...it was not the injectors.....It did the same thing again. It started fine for about 4 times on Saturday, and then since then, everyday almost no start, and my batteries were taking a beating...cold or hot engine no change, this time it was every time, this is about 40 to 50 start stop cycles all in a row and doing this each time, not random...ughh:dunno...We drive the truck alot, and every time we stop and started the truck, same thing Ok back to square one...so much for being excited of curing the problem.-cuss

I have not ran any used WMO yet so I thought I'll buy some tranny fluid to run in the last bit of the rear tank
I bought 2 bottles of automatic transmission fluid and dumped it in the 1/4 full rear tank. And then drove home about 1 hour. It sat over night, and temp went to -8 in the morning, and I thought OK is the tranny fluid going to help any or not......

The truck fired right up faster than it has ever done since I have owned it. The starter never even got to one full rotation.....I was shocked.....maybe it was fluke.....NOPE!!!!!!....been starting like this for about 20 times now, starter doesn't even come on for 1/4 -1/2 second..WOW!!:D....SO this is all it needed....some extra lubrication in the fuel;Sweet....Probably the solenoid is getting weaker so I should get a replacement one .
 

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