Running Warm Under Load; Using OEM gauge location vs Overtemp sender for gauge?

[Shawn MacAnanny]

No you dont need to remove the radiator. I use a piece of 3/4" 2x2 foam from home depot to put in front of my radiator when i work on it or you can use cardboard. It offers some protection when removing the clutch fan, i'll knick right through the radiator fins otherwise. You will need to remove the radiator shroud, and the clutch fan itself i believe. I dont think you can remove the clutch from the fan while it's attached in the truck. It's left hand thread meaning you have to go clockwise to loosen it. I use an air hammer which everyone says not to use becuase its bad for the water pump bearing. To put it back on remove the belt and spin the water pump, way easier than trying to spin the 25lb clutch fan to get the threads to start.

 

[ManBearPig]

Since its going to be close quarters, I may just pull the radiator anyway. I only filled it back up with distilled water for now, so I wont be losing any good coolant. And its fairly easy. With my luck I'd poke a hole through the middle of it wrestling with the fan.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

You should absolutely never use di water in any engine. Oxygen pitting to the steel cylinder walls will occur immediately. For every 18 degrees you increase water temperature corrosion rates double.

 

[franklin2]

Pulling the clutch is a real pain. It's one of those large threaded things, it's always about speed on the assembly line and no regard for servicing the unit in the field. I had to take a torch and whittle out my own large open end wrench and another piece that looks like a wrench but I drilled two holes to line up with the pulley bolts. I had to take two pulley bolts out and bolt on the "holding wrench" and then take the other homemade wrench and loosen the big nut. It was really tight, I had to smack it with a hammer.

If I remember correctly it's left hand thread. The only reason I say that is I went to put it back on and I fiddled with it for 15 minutes before I realized I was trying to screw it back on like a normal bolt, it needs to be turned backwards to thread back on. But mine has v-belts, other setups maybe different.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

If I remember correctly it's left hand thread. The only reason I say that is I went to put it back on and I fiddled with it for 15 minutes before I realized I was trying to screw it back on like a normal bolt, it needs to be turned backwards to thread back on. But mine has v-belts, other setups maybe different.

Yeah definitely left hand thread i dont know why i said right hand thread yet described left hand. clockwise to loosen it. You can use an air hammer on the point of the nut it will knock it free fairly easily. maybe 1 second of hammering with it.

 

[ManBearPig]

You should absolutely never use di water in any engine. Oxygen pitting to the steel cylinder walls will occur immediately. For every 18 degrees you increase water temperature corrosion rates double.

Good point. What I drained out was precharged with SCA, but I wanted to switch to gold ELC. I figured I would need to completely flush the old stuff out because the ELC is not compatible with traditional stuff. I thought it would be a good idea to run water for a couple days, but didn't even think of the cavitation problems it could cause. I'll need to read up on switching to ELC. When I pull the radiator again I'll drain what I can, but what coolant is left will be a very diluted mix.

 

[ManBearPig]

I found a motor craft fan clutch for $90 so I am about to order one. I just can't see how a fan clutch would help keep me as cool as some guys are saying. I can hit 220 unloaded if I maintain speed up a hill. I can't drive easy enough to keep it under 205* around town. If the fan clutch will only lock up around 230* or higher, I just don't see it making an improvement at anything under the mark many here consider "too hot already"

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I can hear mine at 200F, especially starting off in traffic revving up between shifts. I think maybe its full lock at 230f but there is more friction the hotter the fan clutch gets.

 

[mjs2011]

My fan clutch starts to lock up around 200 or 205. I can feel it do so driving around town. When it does, my Temps immediately start dropping and get to around 190 when the fan shuts off.

As for running on the highway empty, my truck runs around 210.

I definitely think a fan clutch repair will fix or at least help your problem, and I would advise against locking up the fan unless you really want to rob power and fuel economy.
Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

 

[tgomes]

Sorry to hijack the thread... But I didn't want to make a new one for a dumb question.... I have not yet to install a water gauge but I will be doing soon. But anyway I feel like my motor runs extremely hot. Driving around I'm in between the o and r in normal sometimes on the r and idling/ coming down to an idle before the o. Park it and go in the engine bay and it feels like I could get third degree burns in that engine bay... Am I just being a baby or does it seem like from design they run hot

 

[ManBearPig]

In my truck between the o-r in normal is about 210*. Perfectly safe

I didn't realize the fan clutch would partially engage, I guess I was thinking it was all or nothing. I've read that some of the aftermarket clutches can be bad out of the box. A motorcraft yb467 should be pretty reliable, I'm hoping.

 

[BrianX128]

Sorry to hijack the thread... But I didn't want to make a new one for a dumb question.... I have not yet to install a water gauge but I will be doing soon. But anyway I feel like my motor runs extremely hot. Driving around I'm in between the o and r in normal sometimes on the r and idling/ coming down to an idle before the o. Park it and go in the engine bay and it feels like I could get third degree burns in that engine bay... Am I just being a baby or does it seem like from design they run hot

Never trust these gauges unless they're pegged one way or the other and even then they don't mean much. Temp gauges aren't calibrated to an exact temp. For example on my F150 the dash gauge goes up to the r in normal and that means 195, highest it goes is the m and that's 210.

On my idi I've never saw the gauge go past the O in normal and that's 215 on a real gauge. Before the N is 185-190 range. Drastically different ranges for different trucks but there's no way to tell without a real gauge.

Same with oil pressure. Don't trust them and install a real gauge. Plenty of easy ways to install one.

 

[fuzzy1626]

Side not.... EGT stayed around 700-800 most times. I did see almost 1000 once. Highest water temp I saw had the EGTright around 750.

Were is your thermocouple located?

 

[ManBearPig]

Pre-turbo. It's in the pipe that bolts to the drivers side manifold.

 

[franklin2]

I found a motor craft fan clutch for $90 so I am about to order one. I just can't see how a fan clutch would help keep me as cool as some guys are saying. I can hit 220 unloaded if I maintain speed up a hill. I can't drive easy enough to keep it under 205* around town. If the fan clutch will only lock up around 230* or higher, I just don't see it making an improvement at anything under the mark many here consider "too hot already"

I was looking around for possibly a flex fan to bolt in place instead of what I did with the brackets. That's when I realized how huge the factory fan is, I measured the diameter and I believe is was around 23 inches. The largest flex fan I could find was 19 inches in diameter. Look at how many blades it has and the sharp angle they have to them. And then when you lock it up, either with brackets or a functioning clutch, you will "hear" how big the fan is. That's how I know your fan is not working, you never have commented on how loud it is. When it works it's very noisy.

People who convert to a electric fan setup struggle to find fans and then alternators that will power electric fans that are equal to the factory mechanical fan.