79jasper
Chickenhawk
You can make the fan lockup sooner.
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Running Warm Under Load; Using OEM gauge location vs Overtemp sender for gauge?
- Thread starter ManBearPig
- Start date
That sounds like what mine was doing. Temp was directly related to the throttle and I had to keep out of it also to keep it from overheating. I found out my problem was the fan clutch. What had me puzzled was overheating at highway speeds, I thought there would be enough air going through the radiator without needing the fan, but with these trucks that is not the case. Even going 70mph down the highway, you still need the fan pulling air through to keep it cool.
What I did to mine was make small l brackets to lock the fan solid. It doesn't overheat at all now, no matter how hard I work it and no matter how hot it is outside.
the rule of thumb when these fan clutches is: if you never hear it kicking in,then it's not lol.time for replacement.
i was about half full of chips with the chipper......so i dunno i guess around 12-13k gross.
i stopped in for a coffee and surprisingly the fans didn't spin on high.just medium.perhaps the larger aux oil cooler helping more than it used to or i just was able to drive though fairly quickly so it didn't warm up too much.very common to see the fans turn on high through drive-through's.i never see them on high driving down the road though........save for climbing a longer steep grade when full of chips or towing dump trailer of course.
edit.oh i have a mechanical auto meter w/ sender in over temp port.
e-fans controlled via sender in upper center rad fins.
i don't drive that fast.just 25-55 mph and when im driving 45-55 my e-fans don't need to work generally.today it was 90F (hot for here) and the fans did need to run on medium (to stay below 220F) though.at least for a few mins and then they just turned back off.
i was about half full of chips with the chipper......so i dunno i guess around 12-13k gross.
i stopped in for a coffee and surprisingly the fans didn't spin on high.just medium.perhaps the larger aux oil cooler helping more than it used to or i just was able to drive though fairly quickly so it didn't warm up too much.very common to see the fans turn on high through drive-through's.i never see them on high driving down the road though........save for climbing a longer steep grade when full of chips or towing dump trailer of course.
edit.oh i have a mechanical auto meter w/ sender in over temp port.
e-fans controlled via sender in upper center rad fins.
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Edit; I should have said MY truck still needs the fan pulling a load at 70mph. Or slower speeds also.
jwalterus
Made in America
once my truck is up to temp, it's at 200 idling, 210 running at 50-70, a little over at 75, and it doesn't matter if it's 90* or 50*
the same pulling 4k
I can't tell you what temp it runs at pulling 10k at 70, I haven't found a long enough downhill with that much weight behind me
the same pulling 4k
I can't tell you what temp it runs at pulling 10k at 70, I haven't found a long enough downhill with that much weight behind me
Running your temps in the 230's should be fine. I believe the over temp light comes on at 240*, so i say keep it below that whenever possible.
It sounds like your fan clutch needs looked at since it should have kicked in. It could be shot, or it the thermostat spring could just need cleaned and adjusted. The fan should kick in in the 230* range and drop the temps back down.
Did u flush the block when you put in the radiator?. 9000lbs will work the truck, but it should be fine.
It sounds like your fan clutch needs looked at since it should have kicked in. It could be shot, or it the thermostat spring could just need cleaned and adjusted. The fan should kick in in the 230* range and drop the temps back down.
Did u flush the block when you put in the radiator?. 9000lbs will work the truck, but it should be fine.
If the fan clutch doesn't kick in between 235 and 240, then possibly the clutch spring is dirty, dirt is an insulator. Clean it out with Brake Kleen. If it's oily, then some of the silicone oil has leaked out. The clutch is similar to a torque converter, it has to have fluid to "engage".
Do NOT remove the spring to clean it.
Do NOT remove the spring to clean it.
ManBearPig
Registered User
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Just got back home. Took a different route home from the park to avoid the interstate, but that wasn't a very good idea. Immediatey after leaving the park, there was abot a 4 mile stretch of road that really had the truck working hard. I was going slow (30-35mph) to try and keep temps under 230*. We got to a particularly steep section where I had no choice but to keep my foot in it, and could not back out. Traffic was piled up behind us, there was no place to pull over, and even if we did pull over I would have struggled to get going again. According to my father who came through several hours later in his 6.7 Powerstroke, this section was a 7% grade, but it only lasted 1/2 mile or so. Probably not even that long. Anyway, I saw my gauge briefly peg the 250 mark. Yes, I know.....dangerously, stupidly hot. I was running about 20mph in second gear at about 2500 RPM. Once we crested that hill it cooled down fairly quickly, and I was able to keep temps around 220*-230* the remainder of the trip. I checked the oil when I got home half expecting to see a milkshake, but it looks about normal. Coolant overflow tank doesn't bubble with the truck running, and I don't see or smell any coolant out the exhaust. I'm still concerned I did some serious damage letting the temp get that hot, but I don't see any evidence of that yet. I hope I dodged a bullet here and the truck will live to work another day. I guess the next thing I need to look into is either replacing/cleaning/repairing the fan clutch, or possibly even somehow modifying it to be on all the time since this truck is not going the be used for anything other than towing anyway.On a lighter note, we had a great time at the lake. I added a picture but it loaded twice, upside down. Sorry about that.
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Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
I didn't realize you were located in Australia. I don't think 250 damaged anything. You usually see damage when a radiator hose, water pump, radiator etc drain coolant from the system allowing certain parts to get much hotter than indicated. I don't think 250 with flowing coolant damaged anything.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Doubt you hurt anything.
Yeah, you can lock er up solid.
It was talked about here with instructions. But I don't remember the thread.
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Yeah, you can lock er up solid.
It was talked about here with instructions. But I don't remember the thread.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
she'll be fine since it was brief and cooled right back down.no point in locking the fan solid.that will rob you of power.id just replace it if cleaning it doesn't work.
looks like fun times.im much too cheap for that kinda setup myself lol.this is how i roll.
the good thing about it is, about the only overheating iv got to worry about is out on the trail.
looks like fun times.im much too cheap for that kinda setup myself lol.this is how i roll.
the good thing about it is, about the only overheating iv got to worry about is out on the trail.
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Here's how I locked my fan. I ran mine so hot I could smell the oil burning on the engine. But it didn't have any long term detrimental affects to the engine. So many people on here had so many problems with the clutch fans, and even the ones that worked didn't come on till it got close to 230F, I felt it was better for me to skip all that and just lock the fan. Plus I am cheap and the clutch is not cheap. Some people try to modify the spring to make it come on sooner but that sounds like another can or worms I didn't want to mess with. I consider this the direct approach to the problem. It can get a little noisy when you rev it up, but like you, I use my truck mainly for towing, so I figured the locked fan would work the best for me and it has. It does not overheat now.
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Mherriford
Registered User
I have fixed a couple of fan clutches this way
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?64852-The-4-fan-clutch-fix
just have to be careful how much oil you add or you will make the clutch lock up real early
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?64852-The-4-fan-clutch-fix
just have to be careful how much oil you add or you will make the clutch lock up real early
junk
Full Access Member
Try checking your timing. Seems like on my trucks timing makes a big difference with water temps. I run a champion aluminum radiator and . I just pulled 20K lb total truck and trailer about 180 miles in 90 degree temps. Air was blasting the whole time.
Something doesn't seem right. Normally I spike temps if I lug it under 1800 pulling. If I'm running over 2300 RPM things seem to stay cooler.
My recommendation is to get the timing checked. Then look at the radiator. The aluminum campions have worked well for me. Oh last thing. Is your reservoir working? My 93 had a bad reservoir when I got it and it would loose coolant and thus was always running hot.
Something doesn't seem right. Normally I spike temps if I lug it under 1800 pulling. If I'm running over 2300 RPM things seem to stay cooler.
My recommendation is to get the timing checked. Then look at the radiator. The aluminum campions have worked well for me. Oh last thing. Is your reservoir working? My 93 had a bad reservoir when I got it and it would loose coolant and thus was always running hot.
ManBearPig
Registered User
I have no idea about the timing. However, doesn't that cause exhaust temp to run too hot before anything else? I've never seen EGT over 1000 on this truck, and very rarely over 850. From my Powerstroke background where anything under 1350* was safe, this truck runs very, very cool on the EGT front.
I do have a new Champion radiator. I even went with the 4-row model. Reservoir is full of fluid. I need to pull 'er back in the shop and look into the fan clutch. I'm guessing the rad has to come out for that? Should have followed my gut and just replaced the fan clutch while the rad was out last week...
I do have a new Champion radiator. I even went with the 4-row model. Reservoir is full of fluid. I need to pull 'er back in the shop and look into the fan clutch. I'm guessing the rad has to come out for that? Should have followed my gut and just replaced the fan clutch while the rad was out last week...
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