runnin pretty warm after 55 mph?

[dagreendeville]

so i got my crew cab all put together 93 non turbo with a factory turbo added im having an issue with it runnin pretty warm if i drive it 55 plus for any length of time but on the other hand coolant is flowing good through the radiator and i can let it idle for long periods of time without it even getting warm the motor is pretty new to me so im trying to get the bugs out it runs great other than this issue im thinking its a timing problem just would like some advice before i try anything

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

do you have a REAL coolant temp gauge installed or are you going by the factory gauge.

 

[dagreendeville]

Factory guage

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

that could very well be the problem. my factory gauge never gets higher than the n on normal. i installed a real gauge and i ride right a 190*F all day long.

 

[redneckaggie]

restriction in the coolant lines somehow would be my guess.

 

[dagreendeville]

Well the guage workes great tho I can cruise around all day in town and its reads around the N or the O but if I get out of town and ride it gets over to the A and the L wich imo is too hot for me lol and as for restriction I can watch the coolant flow nicely through the radiator if I open the cap and if it had restrictions it would run warm or hot when idle for long periods of time

 

[redneckaggie]

If you have already made sure coolant level is correct and system is burped


stat not opening all the way, when at idle there is not as much flow being forced through the engine and not as much heat being produced. when at high rpm the water pump is pushing more flow and more heat is being produced the stat not opening all the way restricts the higher flow and heats up the truck.

I personally would put a real gauge in there. my stock gauge would read n all the way up to 180-200 when it got over 200 the gauge would start shooting up but i could never see a corelation between letters and actual numbers

 

[redneckaggie]

If you have already made sure coolant level is correct and system is burped


stat not opening all the way, when at idle there is not as much flow being forced through the engine and not as much heat being produced. when at high rpm the water pump is pushing more flow and more heat is being produced the stat not opening all the way restricts the higher flow and heats up the truck.

 

[jnkyrdfourd]

check the thermostat, mine was doing the same thing and it turned out the thermostat was hung up !

 

[icanfixall]

So tell us what you mean by the engine is back together. Did you install new rings. What thermostat are you using. Does your bottom radiator hose have a spring in it to keep it from sucking closed. Was the injection pump removed and how was it done is so. At idle and just putting around town you can't build much coolant heat. Driving 55 and about will force plenty of air thru the radiator too but reduced coolant flow will cause high speed heating similar to whats going on with your rig.

 

[dagreendeville]

i never tore anything from the engine lol i bought this motor in dec was running it in my std cab till last month no probs i bought the crew cab that this motor originally came out of and i started putting the crew cab together in example i put this original motor back in it and i put the dana60 and the zf 5 in the crew cab the only things that would be different from one truck to the other would be the radiator, the lower hose the guage and the fan as i went back to an original fan instead of using the e fans out of my std cab. so in this conclusion the lower hose does have a spring in it and the fan seems to be working properly as im sure i would have a problem at idle. im thinking im in need of flushing the radiator? last night i sat down and thought about when i started having this problem and its only been since i put the motor back into the crew cab, and thats the list of things that have changed

 

[redneckaggie]

if you have not ran this radiator problem free then yeah I would say since the engine was great with the other radiator, did you not flush the radiator prior to putting the truck together? if not then whatever trash was in it is now sent throughout your block, could be stuck anywhere.

 

[dagreendeville]

this radiator was used on this motor prior to me putting the motor in my std cab

 

[OLDBULL8]

this radiator was used on this motor prior to me putting the motor in my std cab

Flushing won't do any good, if it's limed up, only boiling (caustic) it out at a Rad shop will do any good. You can't rod these radiators out without ruining them, the tubes have "wiggles" in them. I would say your t'stat is *****. Only a Motorcraft t'stat should be used. E5TZ 8575 C

 

[redneckaggie]

if that radiator was attatched to that motor before and the rad cooled it just fine then its prob not the rad. unless you have put something in it that would clog up the rad but then you should have overheating issues all around, I am like oldbull and still say stat, its not expensive and easy to do, worth it to not burn the engine up. Until you know exactly what temp "the A" is you have no clue whats going on, my sis's 93 runs at M all the time but we have verified with an ir gun that it correlates to about 190.