Return lines replaced.. still leaking (hoses wet)

jam sandwich

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After replacing the return lines on my 89 idi I still see small pools of diesel on 2 cylinders, and wet/soggy hoses on both banks of cylinders..
I believe my friend installed the dipaco kit for a 7.3L idi.
Question is, what would cause them to STILL leak?
I had cracked injector lines which i replaced already.

I've also noticed the plastic caps which the return lines connect to are loose and can be 'wiggled' back and forth.. is that normal? the injector lines are tight.. REALLY tight.
I'm ready to go out and buy some higher quality rubber hose and replace the lines again :mad:
 

jam sandwich

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My friend told me he did.. but looking at them makes me think he didn't :mad:


sounds to me like I need another return line kit -cuss
 

Sycostang67

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The caps should sit on pretty firmly with just a bit of wiggle room from the rubber rings, it's possible he didn't seat them all the way. They need to be pushed down until you hear/feel them snap on. If he forgot to lube the rings before installing the caps he could have cut an o-ring as well.
 

icanfixall

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I usually take an exacto knife and "clean" around the plastic cap opening so the o-rings slips in easy with no start edges from the cap casting in the forms. Usually there is a tiny bit of casting flash that can cut the rings. There are better return line kits. Agnem and typ4 sell great kits. Ask around here about both of these members...
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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I usually take an exacto knife and "clean" around the plastic cap opening so the o-rings slips in easy with no start edges from the cap casting in the forms. Usually there is a tiny bit of casting flash that can cut the rings. There are better return line kits. Agnem and typ4 sell great kits. Ask around here about both of these members...


Good point to bring up Gary.

The last few Diapco kits I've gotten, I've seen an insurgence of excess flashing on the inside of the caps on the past few kits I've gotten. Not sure why because they've been a very good kit.:dunno
 

hesutton

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Good point to bring up Gary.

The last few Diapco kits I've gotten, I've seen an insurgence of excess flashing on the inside of the caps on the past few kits I've gotten. Not sure why because they've been a very good kit.:dunno

x 3.

Most of mine (for the crew cab project) were clean, but a few had some sharp flashing and it was easy to smooth them out.

Are you sure your buddy replaced all the o-rings and caps. The o-rings are a not real fun to remove and replace. If he skipped that step, then you have your answer.

Heath
 

jam sandwich

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Im pretty irritated right now, He had my truck for over 2 months and apparently didn't do alot of **** he told me he did. I've had to source ALL the parts myself including sending units, and another replacement front tank.
 

subway

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sorry to hear of your bad luck, it sounds like he cut some corners. i have gotten the kit from Russ on here and it was a great kit. i checked the kit for flash and found none and they fit nicely. like others have mentioned they should be tight on there and should not really rock around much, espcially with new o-rings.
 

jam sandwich

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Yeah these are most definitely the SAME caps as before, He must've just changed the O rings only.. which is not fixing my leak.
I'm still having somewhat hard starts in the morning and I know leaky return lines will cause that.
I still need to install the CORRECT front tank (I have a 16 gallon in there now, which doesnt fit right) I'm gonna buy a ton of hose and replace all the lines going to/from the front tank as well.

Also, when I get to priming the pump after installing everything,whats the quickest/easiest way of doing so? cracking the shrader valve open?
 

hesutton

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Also, when I get to priming the pump after installing everything,whats the quickest/easiest way of doing so? cracking the shrader valve open?

Yup, have someone crank the engine while you open the valve. Once you stop getting air, then crank the engine with the trottle wide open. Then try and start it.

Make sure the batteries are good and that you don't crank any longer than 30 seconds at a time with a good 2 minutes or so in between cranks to let the starter cool off.

Even easier, install an electric fuel pump and let it do all the bleeding for you and your batteries/starter.:D

Heath
 

jam sandwich

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Thanks for the tip! Im not looking to complicate things any further though, this truck is cursed! Everything thats been touched on it has broken! Tons of snapped bolts.. and other issues as well =/
I hope I can just replace the return lines/caps with new o rings and fix my diesel leak once and for all!
 

OLDBULL8

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There is two sizes of caps, 1/4" and 5/16" inlet/outlet, also the spring clips Red and Green. Get all of them as a set so the hose size matches the caps and spring clips. As far as the O'rings, when installing use Vasoline or like and put the 1st one on in the 1st groove and roll the 2nd over it. Not being partial, if you need them quickly Azone has a complete set with enough hose to replace everything, $52. Mel (Agnem) and Russ (type4) can supply complete sets also. Oh, don't use KY jelly, thats for something else.:D LOL

Please put your truck in your signature, don't have to remember what it is when responding.
 
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gonecrazyi

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Sorry to here you ate having such luck. If you need help installing the tank you got from me give ne a call. All the stuff you are dealing with is what I went through when I got my truck. Once you know what to look for you will be able to fix things pretty easily. I haven't had problems like yours since I foxed them 4 years ago. Just don't get discouraged and feel free to give me a shout when you need help.
 

gonecrazyi

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Autozone can't get them here for some reason. Naps can but they want 85 fricken dollars!
 

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