Return lines replaced.. still leaking (hoses wet)

[Agnem]

I've thought about opening up the kits I sell, cleaning all the flash and cutting the between injector hoses to length, and putting the clamps on them - which would greatly speed up assembly for the end user. However, I don't think people would want to pay $10 extra for that service so I haven't done it.

 

[jam sandwich]

I'm very tempted to just bite the bullet and buy ANOTHER return line kit, along with some extra hose.
This may sound like a dumb question, but in the back of the engine the return lines go down behind the block near the firewall.. where does this line go exactly? Is there some sort of return line block or manifold which then leads to the crossover valve?

 

[trackspeeder]

I've thought about opening up the kits I sell, cleaning all the flash and cutting the between injector hoses to length, and putting the clamps on them - which would greatly speed up assembly for the end user. However, I don't think people would want to pay $10 extra for that service so I haven't done it.

Mel, remember the $10. bucks saved will buy more beer.

 

[trackspeeder]

I'm very tempted to just bite the bullet and buy ANOTHER return line kit, along with some extra hose.
This may sound like a dumb question, but in the back of the engine the return lines go down behind the block near the firewall.. where does this line go exactly? Is there some sort of return line block or manifold which then leads to the crossover valve?

Look behind the drivers side head. You will see where it heads towards the fuel tank.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Autozone can't get them here for some reason. Naps can but they want 85 fricken dollars!

That's BS. If they don't stock it then order it.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...ing=search&itemIdentifier=199897_147538_5058_
Looks like the heading is wrong maybe that's why they can't find it.

 

[typ4]

i can priority mail you one saturday if you can wait and it comes with viton orings.

 

[jam sandwich]

Thanks typ4, I sent you a pm.

The problems with this dam truck keep piling on.
this morning I had a very hard time starting it.. the GP controller cycled many times so I suspect a couple GP's are out.. ARGH!!!!
I've no idea what type of GP's are in there.. are they relatively simple to replace? I hear of all this talk about swollen tips.. it makes me very nervous to replace them.
I'm trying to fix this truck on a budget and Motorcraft/beru zd-9's are 12$ a pop everywhere I go! Anybody have any extra sets they can sell me?

 

[international]

Can you replace the return lines with the turbo on?

 

[Agnem]

MMmmm....Beeeerrrrr....

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

MMmmm....Beeeerrrrr....

I'll second that!

#7 is a PITA with a turbo'ed motor.

It can be done tho.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

You might want to go back and double check Your ...um.. friends work. The caps need to snap into place. Visually inspect all of the caps. There should only be about a quarters $ worth of width between the bottom of the return cap, and the shoulder on the injector.

If they ALL look that way they should be snapped down properly. If any are higher, they probably are not seated.

What kind of clamps are on the lines? Screw clamps don't work. They will deform the hose.

 

[subway]

Can you replace the return lines with the turbo on?

no problem on my factory set up, heck i thought 1 was the hardest having that stupid factory adapter and buried behind the fuel bracket.

 

[jam sandwich]

I guess I have an update on this situation.
I thoroughly checked ALL the lines to/from the tank and they all seem dry.. I would assume if I dont see any wet spots on the lines then they dont leak.. right?
The only spots I see leaking diesel are the return lines themselves.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... Generally speaking any wet areas are leaks. Its not a difficult job replacing the return line kit is you don't have a turbo. Just have the injectors clean near the lines. Remove the hard lines using a 5/8 inch wrench. Then lift the plastic caps up one at a time off the injectors. The hard lines will move enough for clearance. Then use a dental pick to pull the o-ring off far enough to cut them with an exacto knife or a very small pair of wire cutters. Spray down the area with brake clean so things are spotless. Now roll on the top o-ring into the top groove. Roll the next o-ring over the top ring into the bottom groove. There.. Your done with the hard part. Now cut the new hose about 1/8 inch longer than you need between each injector and make up one side of the motor. Now aply some clean grease to all the o-rings and installed the fabed up return line on the injectors. As you push the caps down onto the injectors you will feel them snap into position. This is an important feel. You can try this with the old kit when you remove them. Just push one back down to get the feel and hear the sound of them poping back in place. Afte both sides of the new kit are installed be careful connecting the hard lines to the injectors. They can be cross threaded easily. That will ruin the injector threads but the injector hard line nut will be ok. those are a harder material. Sometimes its just so much easier to remove the hard line vibration clamps so you can move each line so it fits the injectors easier. Its best to hand tighten them all the way down in the injectors. Than way you will know they are not cross threaded. Please.... Remember to install the vibration line clamps if you remove them. If you don't and then run the motor the hard lines will crack. I had this happen and several other members have to . We thought those clamps were no big deal... That thought cost me almost $400.00 many years ago before I knew I could fix these things. If you remove any of the clamps its so much easier to replace those very short bolts with a longer bolt. Makes getting them back together much easier. Doesn't mattr if the bolts go up or down thru the clamps either... Thats about all you need to know about this job. Lots of help available here 24 7 if you run into any problems too.....

 

[jam sandwich]

Thanks very much for that explanation.
I'll be picking up one of those kits from typ4 as soon as he sends me his paypal address

I got the correct front tank in and filled her up yesterday, it works perfect and doesnt leak at all!
I also realized my battery clamps were loose and causing my starter to turn over slower. I tightened them back up, wow what a difference!

This truck has really started coming together..
I had to bust out the soldering gun last night and fix up some BAD wiring on the rear tail light harness.. someone hacked it up from installing a trailer brake.
Most electric items work now except the cruise control.. which im not too worried about.