Compu Doc
Full Access Member
Anyone know of anyone selling these besides the usual auto shops like overpriced Napa. Goose was saying Russ has them for sale but I do not know how to contact him. I am looking to have it within a week.
Return line kit needed
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The name Russ uses here is typ4. Send him a pm. He offers one of the best return line kits anywhere. Make sure you get the Viton o-rings from him too. They will not leak like the other standard o-rings will if you run any differant fuels..
Devon Harley
Full Access Member
He is typ4 on the board there is a new post on cams he posted last pm him super high quality for a nice price.
So how'd it work out, did you get Type4 kit and did it hold fuel.
I'm thinking of spending some big bucks to solve a chronic return fuel leak, but I might be convinced to try one more time to resolve this issue through more conventional means
I'm thinking of spending some big bucks to solve a chronic return fuel leak, but I might be convinced to try one more time to resolve this issue through more conventional means
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Hey Boston lol. Forgot to mention, I too have a return line kit from typ4 and not a single leak. I have also pulled off the caps and reused them....just using new injector o-rings though...and still no leaks. Good kit to go with!
whiteboyslo
FNG
Russ' stuff is top notch. I did mine a couple months ago (first time I've ever done the job) and it is absolutely leak free. The materials are top notch stuff. If you've never done the job before, spend a bit of time searching through threads on here for tips and tricks to ensure a positive result, but it's really straight-forward.
Mike
Mike
I've done it at least a dozen times or so over the last few years using numerous kits, upgrades on parts and sparing no expense. Nothing has prevented it from constantly leaking.
I'm not far from having metal caps made, welding them down and being done with these ridiculous O rings. Although since I'd have them made to press on I could just use hight temp fuel processing system sealant and try skipping the welding.
I've noticed since I've installed the headers that the engine compartment gets real hot, ( been meaning to put an auxiliary fan in there ) although my engine temp is the same. Might be that this excess heat is exacerbating the problem. Although it leaked long before I put the headers on it. In any case absolutely nothing has worked, so again, my faith in this return fuel system is a tad low at the moment.
I'm not far from having metal caps made, welding them down and being done with these ridiculous O rings. Although since I'd have them made to press on I could just use hight temp fuel processing system sealant and try skipping the welding.
I've noticed since I've installed the headers that the engine compartment gets real hot, ( been meaning to put an auxiliary fan in there ) although my engine temp is the same. Might be that this excess heat is exacerbating the problem. Although it leaked long before I put the headers on it. In any case absolutely nothing has worked, so again, my faith in this return fuel system is a tad low at the moment.
whiteboyslo
FNG
What material were the o-rings you used made out of? Also, how did you go about installing the o-rings? I used a method where I lubed everything with lots of petroleum jelly, then used the cap off a Zycam bottle to make sure they slid on nice n smooth.
I've used numerous types of O rings, Viton the first two or three and also these last three or four times. Nothing holds, and no I don't have a clogged system, I just cleaned out both tanks, rebuilt both sending units, replaced lines, cleaned and checked the selector switch, and ran a new line up to the return y fitting.
Black dawg
Registered User
I would definetely try re doing your returns, sometimes the caps just dont fit correctly, but usually with a little prep and carefull work they will be trouble free for alot of years.
do you install the caps on the injectors and then add the hose? I have found this way to be the best.
pm me, dont know why you are having so many problems. Im guessing the block at the back of the engine may be restricted, but then it should shut down when it builds pressure.
Thing runs like a bat outa hell. I'm thinking of toning it down a little so I don't screw up that darling Ford tranny. But it leaks like a sieve, typically starts with one or two weeping small amounts and then cascades over a month or two to all of them. Does it every time.
oh and with the hose off the old fuel filter plugged it only gets fuel flowing from the pump to one side of he system, which I don't much care for either, so I'll have to set up something to fix that as well. But the it was the side that was previously getting fuel from the filter hose that started leaking this time.
I'll try this one more time and then I'm just going to have some metal caps machined and maybe that will work. I can't imagine how plastic caps can maintain a seal with all the expansion and contraction that must exist between that injector and the cap. The two are bound to expand at wildly different rates. I was thinking I'd figure out what kinda metal they make the injectors out of and use the same stuff for the cap.
Assuming I can't get it to hold next time. I checked that block and it was clear, I'll replace it anyway as its cheap, but still, I soaked it and blew it out with compressed air when I rebuilt the fuel system. Its clear.
oh and with the hose off the old fuel filter plugged it only gets fuel flowing from the pump to one side of he system, which I don't much care for either, so I'll have to set up something to fix that as well. But the it was the side that was previously getting fuel from the filter hose that started leaking this time.
I'll try this one more time and then I'm just going to have some metal caps machined and maybe that will work. I can't imagine how plastic caps can maintain a seal with all the expansion and contraction that must exist between that injector and the cap. The two are bound to expand at wildly different rates. I was thinking I'd figure out what kinda metal they make the injectors out of and use the same stuff for the cap.
Assuming I can't get it to hold next time. I checked that block and it was clear, I'll replace it anyway as its cheap, but still, I soaked it and blew it out with compressed air when I rebuilt the fuel system. Its clear.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Usually any kit I use there is a small plastic flash or excess material around the edge of the cap where the o-rings first touch it. Useing an exacto knife to scrape off the sharp material and smoothing out the area keeps the rings from being cut slightly. Viton from Russ is what really helps. If your running any fuel cocktails they will ruin a non viton o-ring. Is this continued leak at one specific injecter. If so then that where the problem must be. How do you remove the old o-rings. A dental pick and an exacto knife to cut them works great. Installing them is important. Always roll the first ring into the top groove. Then roll the second ring over the top ring and into the bottom groove. I make up my caps for one side of the engine and install them as one piece. Works fine every time for me. Checking that back multi fitting is a good idea too. You have not mentioned what kind of return system you have. Some have the 3/8 metal line from the injection pump that runs down the drivers side of the intake manifold to the brass fitting with all the ports on it... That brass fitting has a gasket in it same as the olives that are on the filter to injection pump supply line. That probably is dryed up and sucking in air causing all kinds of hell for you and many others... Its really a hidden unknown problem with this type of fuel return system.
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