Replacing freeze plug behind oil cooler

[DrCharles]

My truck is still leaking small amounts of coolant even with rebuilt heads and new head gaskets.

According to the shop who replaced my heads, there is a freeze plug seeping... but it's the one on the left behind the oil cooler.

I now have the proper Ford OEM convex plugs and plan to buy/rent the installation tool. I know the oil cooler has to be unbolted and moved out of the way. But I've read some old threads that say it can't be done with the engine in the truck!

Edit to add: If there's not room to use the driving tool, is it possibie to use a 1-1/4 NPT tap directly in the 1.5" hole, then screw in a threaded plug? I even saw one comment about using a hole saw to cut a hole in the frame for access, then welding the piece back in afterwards...


Advice?
thanks.

 

[DrCharles]

I was looking at this article on removing the oil cooler
http://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/idi-oil-cooler.html

And looking at the picture next to the step that starts, "Remove the four rear oil cooler header bolts" it looks like the rear freeze plug is accessible with the cooler in place. But the other one is below the cooler although behind the motor mount.

I'm going to have a close look for myself (because it's not impossible that this shop mangled the O-rings or block gaskets when they did the oil cooler), but if it's the one behind the mount, it looks possible to jack up the engine, remove the mount and access the plug that way...

 

[DrCharles]

This afternoon I read all the freeze plug threads I could find here on Oilburners... As much as I hate to admit it, it looks like I'm going to have to pull the engine to do it.


The good part is that with the engine out, it'll be really easy to change the front crank seal, inspect and (probably) put a new clutch and SMF on, and while the flywheel's off, do the two freeze plugs behind it. Also a perfect time for a new Red Top steering box.

 

[icanfixall]

As much as pulling the engine seems like an overwhelming job its really not. Compared to working in too tight of an area and being under the truck really makes an easy job hard as hell. Just make sure the engine stand is the 2 ton size with 4 wheels under it.

 

[DrCharles]

I've pulled plenty of engines from cars in the last 35 years (usually with the transmission though)... I agree that working on them in confined spaces is really annoying. I have three 90's BMWs, two with DOHC V8's, so you don't have to ask how I know

I have two cherry picker engine cranes, decent ones not folding cheapies, but think I may have my friend with the backhoe lift it out. He's got a pretty good touch on those levers and made bed R&R (twice!) a snap. Don't have a good stand though. I was planning to just set it on wood planks or the ground

Will I have to take off any body-attached parts besides the hood (and radiator)? I'd like to pull it fully-dressed (maybe take the fan off to avoid damage).

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Before you actually pull the engine, are you POSITIVE that it's leaking from one of the engine plugs? If not, maybe you should locate/buy/rent a cooling system pressure tester to try to locate the leak. I'd hate for you to pull the engine just to find out that (somehow) it's the oil cooler or possibly a loose clamp on the lower radiator hose. If you do have to pull the engine, you're thinking along my lines. Remove as little as possible. Hood, radiator, and fan are all you have to remove before the engine comes out. If you don't want to remove the water pump and crank pulleys, just rotate the engine slightly to the side to get it to come out. I always remove the accessories before pulling the engine. I never take them out with the engine. Just lay them to the side and the engine will come out.

 

[DrCharles]

Not a bad idea... I took it back to the shop that actually did the oil cooler while they replaced the heads. He looked underneath the (fully hot) engine and was sure it was coming from the left front freeze plug. But it'd definitely be prudent to double check.

Anyway if it does have to come out, as mentioned I plan to also do the front crank seal, the passenger valve cover leak, a new clutch and SMF and rear main seal, all seven freeze plugs AND the steering box

 

[IDIBRONCO]

A good argument for pulling the engine then. That heavy steering box will be much easier to install when the engine's not in there. I'd try to do it standing in the engine bay. It's not much fun from underneath.

 

[laserjock]

Make sure it’s not the oil cooler orings or gasket to the block before you knock out the freeze plug. Steering box is a bit of a beast to muscle up in from underneath. I got pretty good at it though. Make sure the bolts and holes are good and clean so they start easy if you go that route.

 

[DrCharles]

I will check before I do anything like pull the engine it's possible that the shop who just did the oil cooler o-rings and gaskets screwed one of them up...