replaced fuel pump while turbo was out - now it's leaking!

[milner351]

So - the turbo o rings were leaking - go to the international dealer, get the two orings and the gasket for the exhaust inlet to the turbo.

Pray for patience, and begin the removal - if I ever meet the dude that did the packaging on this thing I'm going to beat him with in inches of his life. Those two rear 10mm bolts are a frustrating ordeal, especially on installation when you have to be carefull not to move the new orings out of their seats - I used shims pushed between the bolts and holes on the top to keep the bolts up out of the way while I slid the turbo into place.

I decided since the truck has nearly 150k on it and the fuel pump looked original - it was a good time to change the pump. Favorite local parts store got me one for about $140 and it's a made in the usa Carter just like the one I took out.

It's leaking engine oil into the valley.... only think I can think of is that I must have nicked the oring on it's way in.

I noticed the oring on the one I took out seemed to be wider and more square than the one I put in - I just figured it was worn....

is there something special about the oring on the fuel pump? am I mising something?

i'm NOT looking forward to pulling that pump back out - this time I won't have the turbo out of the way to make it easier!

 

[hheynow]

The banjo bolt takes two flat washers, one inside and one outside. Did you put two back? The old ones or new ones? Sure the banjo bolt is tight? All leaks move rearward. Dry under the fuel bowl?

 

[milner351]

yup - I made sure to get two new washers for the bit banjo bolt, and it takes such a big wrench to tighten it - I'm certain I got it TIGHT.

what I'm leaking is engine oil for sure - not fuel.

I also replaced the hoses to the pump while I was there, with fuel injection rated hose.

The valley is wet on both sides of the fuel pump.

The back of the block under the turbo orings is dry.... unlike when those orings were leaking.

Anything special about the fuel pump oring seal to the block? is it square or round oring?
does it have a backer ring? The pump I got had a simple oring, round profile, no backer.

 

[rmckee242]

Replaced my fuel pump about two months ago. It ani't too pleasant with the turbo in there. Had to grind and bend a wrench for the bango. Ring in my pump was standard looking. The one I took out looked like the one you removed. Any chance the pump was cocked just a little one way and the seal isn't real tight. It could be loose enough to leak but not loose enough to make noise. All I did before I put the pump back in was clean the mating surface on the engine with acetone and lubbed the crap out of both sides and the bore in the block.

 

[milner351]

I've taken a few more looks at it. I was able to get about an 1/8 of a turn on the banjo nut to compress the copper washers more. I also tightened the two 10mm mounting bolts a bit more.

It's pretty tough to see where the oil is coming from.

I hosed the area with brake clean the other night and tried to tamp it all up with shop rags to get it dry.

The mounting flange where the two 10mm bolts go in appears dry... so I'm starting to suspect the banjo fitting maybe the culprit.

Is there anything special about those seal rings?

 

[rmckee242]

When I changed my pump the crush washers looke like they could get misaligned real easy. I didn't have much room with the turbo in there. I kept them lined up by putting a drop of thin super glue on each washer so they were glued in place until the bango tightened up. I don't know if they can get out of place but I didn't want to go back in there. I tightened mine until I busted a knuckle or two. With threads that big I figured it would never strip.

 

[milner351]

I'll check it again when I have the chance - I'm hoping the tightening I did will fix the leak. Really hard to tell down in that valley WHERE it's coming from. but it's oil, not fuel, that much I can say for sure.

I used copper sealing washers that were a bit thicker than the sealing washers that came out - could that create any problems?

 

[rmckee242]

Only problem with the copper is that it will expand and contract at a different rate than the steel pump and banjo bolt. That could cause it to leak a little when cool and then seal itself when it heats up. I got two washers from the local dealership for mine. That expanding and contracting may be a little far out but it sounds good. Possible that it could be fuel and looks like oil after it disolves that stuff stuck to the engine in the valley.

 

[Greenbeast6.9]

Its either your pedistal o-rings or its the EBPV rod leaking at the pedistal.

 

[OLDBULL8]

noticed the oring on the one I took out seemed to be wider and more square than the one I put in - I just figured it was worn....

is there something special about the oring on the fuel pump? am I mising something?

That is called a Quad ring. If that is what's supposed to be in there instead of an O'ring, that could cause the leak.

 

[milner351]

I've cleaned the area a few times and tried to find the source of the leak.

It's not coming from the EBPV control rod - I removed that long ago and plugged the hole with a pipe plug - no traces of oil around that.

The turbo pedestal O-rings I just replaced are doing thier job - no traces of oil between the turbo and pedestal, or pedestal to block.

I also don't see any traces of oil around the fuel pump to block flange - so, I think my suspicion of that O-ring leaking was incorrect...

It's really tough to see if that banjo bolt is leaking or not, I've gotten another 1/8 turn or so tighter on the banjo bolt - it doesn't look like it's leaking from there either.

The only place I can see evidence of the start of an oil trail (which then goes all the way back in the valley and down the back of the block)
is at the back of the HP oil pump. There is a round cover held in with a snap ring, at the bottom of that bore / snap ring / cover area - there is oil.

What is the procedure for removing that cover and replacing the seal behind it?

What is going to come falling out of there when I remove that snap ring?

I'm guessing removing the fuel filter canister first would be a good idea to improve access....

I need to find an exploded view of that pump before I dive into this...

 

[Greenbeast6.9]

The HPOP has o-rings on the fittings. They could be leaking or even where it mounts the the front cover could be leaking. Migh as well just pull the fuel bowl and get a mirror to see under the pump.

 

[milner351]

Just an update - I had to order the proper banjo bolt washers from the dealer - less than $4.

Thankfully my 12pt 1 1/4" craftsman combo wrench was all I needed, and a little patience to swap out the washers.... it was a pretty easy job.

So - Lesson learned - DONT USE COPPER WASHERS on the fuel pump outlet... they don't work!

However - I'm 2 qts low on engine oil - so that's another problem to track down - I just can't catch a break on this thing lately!