Removing emusified water and antifreeze from WMO/ATF

bcool

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When you guys are heating this oil up are you draining anything out of the bottom or are you just letting the water and antifreeze boil out the top?
 

mocetane

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When you guys are heating this oil up are you draining anything out of the bottom or are you just letting the water and antifreeze boil out the top?


Heck if I know. I just work here.:rotflmao

Seriously I think it takes some of both. It depends on how much water is in your batch, and how long you want/need to heat it. If it sits for a few weeks, one is supposedly able to drain off most of the crud and water from the bottom. Use a cone shaped barrel bottom for better draining. OR you can pull the "good" oil/atf off from the top with the transfer pump. Use a clear hose.
But I still do not have an answer on the antifreeze. I do not know if it stays bound to the water or does it evaporate off when the oil is heated to 150 deg. or more.?????????????????
I have been of the understanding that centrifuging is needed to get the final water, sub micron carbon and other metals, and antifreeze out.
My experience has been very limited so far. My set up is still in process.
My info is a summary of the general concensus out there from several sites.
So I am not an experienced user yet.
This is an ongoing dark secret experiment so far.....

Hopefully someone with more experience can answer this question better for both of us
 

SHIP4BRAINS

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I guess it would be too simple to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get an electric HW heater element that is rated for 120V and just straight wire it.cookoo
I am sure one would need a few other essentials in order not to melt the whole place.:eek:

WHy in hell would anyone heat a fluid that is in a plastic container? :confused::confused::dunno > I mean, a few degrees to get it to FLOW easier, sure...but enough energy to actually boil water out of oil? In a plastic container?

I don't care to have 50+ gal of waste oil flowing out of my garage door for my neighbors and the police to see.

Heated fluid belongs in a steel container.
 

mocetane

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WHy in hell would anyone heat a fluid that is in a plastic container? :confused::confused::dunno > I mean, a few degrees to get it to FLOW easier, sure...but enough energy to actually boil water out of oil? In a plastic container?

I don't care to have 50+ gal of waste oil flowing out of my garage door for my neighbors and the police to see.

Heated fluid belongs in a steel container.


:rotflmao:rotflmao:rotflmao


I don't know about the others, but I have steel 55 gal. barrels.
It is easier to weld the cone bottoms on steel rather than on plastic too.
Not sure where heating in a plastic barrel was mentioned....but then I probably missed something. Sounds messy:puke:

I have some plastic barrels for collecting and storage, but not for heating.
I think the melted plastic would mess up my IP for sure.;Really

I just bought some household water filter canisters on sale at LOWES yesterday. They have 10" filters that go down to 0.5 microns. I am going to start at 20 and work to 0.5. Then centrifuge.
Interesting thing about those filters....it says for "cold water only". Not intended for use at over 100 degrees. So I will not be heating things much regardless. I know I will be diluting the viscosity with ATF and diesel before I filter.
A big question I have...... are the "sock filters" better than the 10" in a cannister??
I plan to gravity filter if I can.
 

rock mafia

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A big question I have...... are the "sock filters" better than the 10" in a cannister??
I plan to gravity filter if I can.

I can filter 50 gal of 100% wmo in about 15 min with a 1 mic 30" sock filter.
 

rock mafia

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A big question I have...... are the "sock filters" better than the 10" in a cannister??
I plan to gravity filter if I can.

I can filter 50 gal of 100% wmo in about 15 min with a 1 mic 30" sock filter at 70 deg.
 

mocetane

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I can filter 50 gal of 100% wmo in about 15 min with a 1 mic 30" sock filter at 70 deg.

Wow. That sounds a LOT faster than what I have heard of with the 10" filters. I am going to take them back to LOWES tomorrow !!!!

Are you just using the 1 micron filter by itself, or are you progressing up to that , like 20-10-5-1, etc??

Where do you get your sock filters.....ebay has a ton of them but don't know how reliable some of that is...

BTW, I FINALLY got the 1991 Dodge 5.9 Cummins W350, Winch, lockers, home about 30 minutes ago !!!!! WAY COOL truck. :love::love::love::love:

THANKS
 
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milner351

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So far (several hundred miles) I'm having good luck using a 110V pump to push waste atf through a marine water filter / fuel separator directly into the tank.

The only changes I notice are, on nearly 100% WATF:

some throttle opening while cranking is required for a cold start - maybe 20% throttle

white smoke on start up is noticeable, some white smoke while running is noticeable

vehicle runs as well, if not better on atf than #2

It has not been cold enough here yet to see what the cold start issues may be.... I have to install a new block heater, and may install a coolant to fuel heat exchanger.

I'm hoping WATF will not have the high viscosity issues that WMO has... I'm keeping the watf in separate barrels, allowing the water to settle to the bottom.

I have to get one of those cone bottom set ups for water separation - that's a nice set up - I'm not sure I trust my welds enough to seal perfectly - but we'll see!
 

mocetane

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I got them from here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-5-32-Lon...ryZ57114QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I've put about 200 gal several times through one 1 mic sock, using a fill rite 15 gpm (it won't pump oil that fast) diesel pump.

Excellent. Thanks for the link !!!

I read his ad and advice. He says to filter in a sequence ( like 50-20-10-5-1)and you can stack the filters inside each other and run it all thru at the same time. Have you tried that method ? He claims it will make the filters last longer...or maybe it is his way of selling a lot more filters ???

Sounds easier than a manifold of household water filters !!!!!
 

mocetane

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WHy in hell would anyone heat a fluid that is in a plastic container? :confused::confused::dunno > I mean, a few degrees to get it to FLOW easier, sure...but enough energy to actually boil water out of oil? In a plastic container?

I don't care to have 50+ gal of waste oil flowing out of my garage door for my neighbors and the police to see.

Heated fluid belongs in a steel container.

Well suprise, suprise, suprise. Lookie here at what I done found on the ol' evilbay.

Guess it must be OK at up to 150 degrees !!!????

http://cgi.ebay.com/Poly-55-Gallon-...ryZ57114QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 

SHIP4BRAINS

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150 isn't enough heat to boil the water out of oil. It would work great for warming oil enough get it to flow...but not hot enough IMO for water removal. 212 F is boiling point at sea level.
 

rock mafia

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Excellent. Thanks for the link !!!

I read his ad and advice. He says to filter in a sequence ( like 50-20-10-5-1)and you can stack the filters inside each other and run it all thru at the same time. Have you tried that method ? He claims it will make the filters last longer...or maybe it is his way of selling a lot more filters ???

Sounds easier than a manifold of household water filters !!!!!


Unless your oil is really nasty, thats a waste of time. I tried a 10 and 1 to begin with, and took the 10 out.
 

SHIP4BRAINS

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I double/tripple stack the 1 micron filters for waste motor and hyd oil. 50 micron is for veggie oil with chicken bones and french fries still in it.
 

mocetane

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150 isn't enough heat to boil the water out of oil. It would work great for warming oil enough get it to flow...but not hot enough IMO for water removal. 212 F is boiling point at sea level.

Good point.
 
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