Removing emusified water and antifreeze from WMO/ATF

[mocetane]

Unless your oil is really nasty, thats a waste of time. I tried a 10 and 1 to begin with, and took the 10 out.

Thanks...that is a good money saving tip to know.

 

[mocetane]

I double/tripple stack the 1 micron filters for waste motor and hyd oil. 50 micron is for veggie oil with chicken bones and french fries still in it.

I was wondering if something like that could be done because the filters are supposed to be 80% efficient. Double or tripple stacking sounds like an efficient and effective method.

I just took my "household filters" back to LOWES today !!

My ACME 3600 RPM Juicemaster "centrifuge" just came today.
I have not gotten it out of the box yet! That is next after I get off this site.
Hope it will do the job for me..It might be a little slow, but we will see.
I need to get some tubing and some ball valves............

The next thing I need is a transfer pump or two.

I saw a writeup where someone took a 350 chevy engine oil pump and made it into a gear transfer pump. Cost is minimal. I like that part!!!!
So that will be next in the evolution of this project.

Many thanks to all for their contributions here..

 

[cash]

150 isn't enough heat to boil the water out of oil. It would work great for warming oil enough get it to flow...but not hot enough IMO for water removal. 212 F is boiling point at sea level.

If water has to boil in order to evaporate where does the water go off my driveway when it is only 70 deg. or so?

 

[rock mafia]

If water has to boil in order to evaporate where does the water go off my driveway when it is only 70 deg. or so?

It's not covered with oil.

 

[SHIP4BRAINS]

I imagine the water could eventually evap out of the oil....but like rock said, it is literally COVERED in oil and can't escape easily.

I have always been told engine oil temp is very important...too hot and obviously it breaks down and so does your engine...too cool and any moisture present can't "boil out" and escape the crank case. And you end up with a milk shake....

So i am lead to believe simply heating oil to a low temp would be much benefit.

One of the bio websites shows a drying proceedure for water washed vegie oil bio....it is heated and sprayed into a fine mist into a centrifuge exposing the wet oil to as much air as possible to speed the evap of the water. I believe they were running a fan too, to circulate the air.

I was considering a "bubbler" in the bottom of my main storage tank....10-15' of small dia copper tube formed into several rows with a bunch of small holes drilled in it...connect to my 70 gal air compressor and run about 4-5psi of air through it to expose the oil to as much air as possible. I'm not in a hurry so let it run continiously...

I have about 40 gal of waste hyd oil that has a haze to it....it just looks murky. Heated, it clears up nicely. I placed a small amount - 6-7 oz - of it in a glass bowl and let it sit exposed for 3-4 days...the hase goes away. Maybe the oil could dry if exposed to more air.................

?

 

[mocetane]

Ship,


Just FYI
Put a water trap on your air compressor if you use the bubbler method...otherwise you will be injecting moisture/condensation from the compressor right back into the hyd. oil.
But then you already probably know all that......

 

[SHIP4BRAINS]

Yep...got that covered....if it works. But very good point.

 

[milner351]

ship - did the hyd oil separate with oil and water at different levels in the jar, or did it really evaporate in 3-4 days?

 

[SHIP4BRAINS]

There isn't enough water in this hyd oil to seperate...it remains suspended. I believe that is one of the tasks of hyd oil, to suspend water....so a hydrostat doesn't get a big slug of water off the bottom of the tank...water as you all know doesn't lub very well.

The glass bowl I had the oil in only contained about 6 oz. The bowl is clear glass. When I first put the oil in it, it was a hazy light brown color. After a few days of being exposed to air, it was very clear. Still brownish, but very clear.

 

[snatchal]

I have a half a barrel of WMO that is contaminated with water. When I first got it it looked the color of a milkshake. It has since been sitting undisturbed for a year . Now it is black, so I think all of the water has settled to the bottom. The barrel is sitting in an unheated shed. Next week it is going to be about 10 degrees or less here. I am hoping that the water on the bottom will freeze solid. Then I can pump the uncontaminated oil off of the top. I may have to add a few gallons of diesel to the oil though to thin it out enough to be able to pump it. Has anyone tried this method to get rid of water? Any opinions would be welcome.

 

[SHIP4BRAINS]

Has anyone tried this method to get rid of water? Any opinions would be welcome.

You'll probably get most of the water out, but I'm willing to bet there is still some water suspended in the oil that can't be rid of unless heated....

just a guess.

 

[rkpatt]

If you use the drop in water heat element , use a 220 v elvement on connect to 120v . Insulate the barrel . Let temp rise to 150 ish then turn off the element and let it sit overnight . Pump off the top 80%.

 

[SHIP4BRAINS]

If you use the drop in water heat element , use a 220 v elvement on connect to 120v . Insulate the barrel . Let temp rise to 150 ish then turn off the element and let it sit overnight . Pump off the top 80%.

Does this heat it enough for it to seperate?