Rebuild, replace, or engine swap?

dizdak

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that is my question... situation, engine just feels tired and weak, has a new baby moose and injectors (less then 1k miles), odometer shows only 277k miles is all.. but the truck just feels weak to me when towing probably 9k lbs...not wanting to race anyone when towing but it just seems it won't get out of its own way it hauling that size load... i don't know if i over expect from it or what, but i will honestly say i do not feel comfortable hauling my play truck/ trailer more than 75 or so miles from home.. i love the truck and body style, just not the engine at the moment... so gathering thoughts, ideas, suggestions, on wether to rebuild the IDI with a few mods to get a little from the skinny pedal, replace the engine with rebuilt, or say the heck with it and drop a cummins in... everything on this truck is bone stock, no extra gauges, no lift kits, no engine mods aside baby moose & injectors, and i did remove the muffler... what ya'lls thoughts, i appreciate you fella's on here always come with good thoughts and ideas... thanks...
 

hesutton

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Well, here's my two cents.......

I'd do a few things before I'd swap, rebuild, or replace the engine. I run a compression test to she if that is low or if there are a few cylinders that are not up to spec. If low, it's an indication a rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea.

Also, I'd check a used oil analysis with Blackstone, Cat, or some other lab. It can give you a good idea as to what is contaminating your oil...... coolant, ring or bearing material, and so on.

If those tests are concerning for a tired IDI, rebuilding is my favorite options. Made a world of difference in my 6.9 with over 300K on the clock. But, I also added a Bull Moose, Moose injectors, a typ4 206 cam, and an intercooler.

If those tests are good, might wanna think about turning up the fuel on your IP, maybe add an intercooler, or a cam.

Heath
 

firehawk

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I agree with Hesutton. Find the issue first, and address that. No point doing a rebuild if its just a partially clogged fuel filter.
 

dizdak

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thank you.. i have a compression test guage, is there any special way to check the compression on this motor? and since these are higher compression engines should i have a different gauge than i use for the gassers?
 

tractorman86

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What's Your Budget First Off? As Heath Said Test First, IfEverything Turns Out Good Then Modify A Little. Intake, Exhaust, Get A Pyro, Then Turn Up The Pump, If That Still Isn't Enough Add An Intercooler And Re-adjust The Ip Accordingly.
 

dizdak

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budget - i wouldn't want to put more than $5k into any of these options.. IMO any more than that i would sell the truck, then spend that $5k plus truck funds and buy something a little newer..
 

vanet

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Fix the down pipe on the 94. Clean out the engine with Auto RX, have the timing set properly and my guess is you will think it is a new truck. 277k is not a lot for these motors, unless it was abused pretty bad before you got it. Van
 

icanfixall

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Fisrt thing I want to know is did you time the engine after the Moose pump install. If yes is the answer who did it and what methode was used. Now yout telling us its a bone stock engine.. Does that mean its a turbo or non turbo because both were available in 94. If its a turbo what down pipe is on the engine. If it the flat squished pipe then plenty of hp can be gained from changeing that. Running a straight pipe is a good thing but what size is it and that alone still wont tell us if its a turbo or not.
 

hesutton

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Pull the wire from the FSS on the IP 1st. Most will pull the glow plugs and hook the tester up through their ports, but you could it do via the injector bores (a bigger PITA as the injection lines will fight you as well as getting air in the fuel system that will have to be bled). No oil in the cylinders either. I like to warm the engine first, but not everyone will agree on that. Turn the engine over until the compression stops climbing (usually a few revolutions)

You will need a higher psi gauge than what most gasser testers i've seen come with. Compression typically is in the 400+ psi range and can be 500+.

5K would by bunch of stuff for that IDI. Unlikely you'll need nearly that much stuff.

Heath
 
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vanet

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Fisrt thing I want to know is did you time the engine after the Moose pump install. If yes is the answer who did it and what methode was used. Now yout telling us its a bone stock engine.. Does that mean its a turbo or non turbo because both were available in 94. If its a turbo what down pipe is on the engine. If it the flat squished pipe then plenty of hp can be gained from changeing that. Running a straight pipe is a good thing but what size is it and that alone still wont tell us if its a turbo or not.

It says Turbo in his sig, and since he said it is bone stock, I was guessing it is the stock turbo of 94.
 

dizdak

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yes factory turbo, factory down pipe... exhaust piping factory as well, i removed the muffler and put in a piece of straight 2.5" pipe in its place..
icanfixall - i did have help from another member on here with the moose pump install who has timed several other FL members pumps in the past, but his timing meter decided to quit working as we were trying to time it, so to answer your question no it has not yet been properly timed..
thanks sutton i will see about checking the compression when i get ahold of a higher comp gauge...
 

Agnem

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What kind of EGT's are you seeing when you tow? 15,000 is a lot of weight.
 

tractorman86

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5K Is Definitely More Than Enough If You Are Only Doing Power Adders, If You Rebuild it It May Be A Different Story
And imho Anything Less Than 3" Exhaust Is Foolish, Personally I Like 4"
 

dizdak

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i do not know the EGTs, all i have at the moment is factory gauges... are you saying 15k total for truck , trailer and play truck? or just tow weight? realistically i'd say tow weight of trailer and play truck is about 9k..
 

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